Juho, IFMGA certified mountain guide, invites you to this 5-day summer climbing traverse of the Bernina, ascending Piz Roseg, Piz Morteratsch and Piz Palü.
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
The Bernina is a mountain range in the east of Switzerland and north of Italy. Piz Bernina, rising to 4049m, is its highest point. It has many impressive peaks and in this occasion we will ascend three of them.
There are many superlatives describing this special place. "The Queen of the East Alps" is one of them, and another is "The festival room of the Alps".
During this traverse we climb the main peaks of the Bernina massif. We start the trip at Pontresina, an idyllic village. The first adventure is climbing up to the Tschierva hut. Then we aim for the Piz Roseg, the second highest peak of the massif. It's not as popular as Piz Bernina, but the climb is outstanding. The views from the summit are a perfect reward for this challenging ascent.
Our second objective is Piz Morterratsch. The scenery from its peak is particularly fantastic. Again, a technically challenging ascent.
On the fourth day we climb the bianco ridge, "the classic tour" in this area. A perfect combination of rock and snow ridge. After a long day we reach the Marco e Rosa hut on the Italian side.
And the last adventure is the traverse of the Piz Palü summits on a sharp ridge. We return to the valley via Diavolezza gondola.
This is certainly a complete program to explore Bernina! Join me this summer for an Alpine adventure.
The next fixed departure is on July 3rd 2017.
Do you find this traverse tempting? Then please contact me for more information so we can leave together. I would love guiding you in this beautiful region of the Alps.
Another of my favourites is the Monte Rosa and Breithorn climbing traverse, check it out!
- Guiding fee
- Mountain guide expenses
We meet at Pontresina train station at 1PM. We check the equipment and start the hike to the Tshierva hut. About 3h hiking takes us to this hut which has excellent views over Piz Roseg, our goal for the next day. We have dinner and do briefing of the Tour.
The first of our main goals. An alpine start and a long day, mixed terrain: glaciers, rocky ridge and steep snow and ice. About 9-11h (1500m) of touring time. Night back at the Tschierva hut.
We tour to the beautiful Piz Morteratsch. Today’s ascent is not as challenging as the Piz Roseg and the summit offers great views to the Bianco ridge that we will climb the next day. About 6h of touring time (1200m).
Another alpine start to climb the classic route to Piz Bernina. Long, challenging and rewarding day. About 9-11h of touring time. We stay at Marco e Rosa hut (1500m).
A tour on astonishing snow and rocky ridges traversing the peaks of Piz Palü. After about 6h of touring (700m) we arrive to Diavolezza Gondola station and take a ride back down. The tour ends about 2PM at Diavolezza.
In mountain huts.
Level: This tour is meant for people with some experience in mountaineering. Technically the participant has to be able to climb IV grade (UIAA) and be able to walk with crampons solidly in steep (40°) and icy terrain. Physical condition should be enough to stand a total touring time of 11h in moderate pace.
Equipment: backpack 30-40L, mountaineering boots, glacier equipment (crampons, harness, biners, ice axe, slings), technical underwear, touring pants, wind and waterproof jacket (hardshell, breathable) or soft shell jacket (depending on the weather), well-fitting socks, warm gloves, warm hat, sunscreen and lip protection (SPF 30), sunglasses, snacks, thermos and water bottle, passport, identity card, camera, cell phone, charger, credit card, cash.
At Pontresina train station.
Hi, my name is Juho, a mountain guide originally from Finland. I started to guide when I came to Chile end of 2006. I was a living and working in Chile while I took UIAGM guiding cources in Argentina until 2011. Nowadays I am living on the shore of Lake of Constanz on Swiss-German border. ...and guiding from here in the Alps, Northern Scandinavia and in the Andes. I have also a small guiding company in Konstanz.
German | | English
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Guide was awesome. Great terrain selection, finding good snow and overall trip organization. Would definitely go with him in the future.
Piz Bernina, 2-day Summit with overnight at the Marco e Rosa Hut, from Diavolezza
The “Biancograt”, Piz Bernina (4049m) Summit and Piz Palu traverse, 3 days
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