Climb the Matterhorn (4,478m) from the Italian side via the Cresta del Leone, 2 days
5.0
(1)
Come and climb the amazing Matterhorn mountain from the Italian Side via the Cresta del Leone with IFMGA guide Marco.
Private
Alps
2 Days
Jul
High
Advanced
Highlights
- Climb the Matterhorn via its historic Italian normal route, following the legendary Cresta del Leone.
- Spend the night at the iconic Carrel Hut before ascending the summit through one of the Alps’ most iconic ridgelines.
- Tackle exposed alpine terrain with fixed ropes, mixed climbing, and stunning views over the Aosta Valley and Monte Rosa.
Description
Majestic and iconic, the Matterhorn (4,478m) is an incredible symbol of the Alps. And, on this 2-day expedition, I would like to guide you to the summit of this great peak.
By way of the Cresta del Leone on the Italian side of the mountain, we will make our ascent. The ascent, while not overtly difficult, does have some tough spots. As a result, it is important that participants have prior climbing experience on rocky terrain, as well as experience with crampons. Furthermore, you should be in good physical condition as well.
On the first day of the trip, from Cervinia, we will climb to either the Plain Maison at an altitude of 2,500 meters or make our way to the Duke of Abruzzi refuge at 2,800 meters. From there, we will go to the Carrel hut, where we will spend the night. We will be climbing for approximately 5 hours on the first day of the trip.
On the second day of the trip, we will climb for approximately 5 to 6 hours to the summit of the Matterhorn. After you’ve enjoyed the unbelievable views from the summit, we will descend either by the same route we ascended or along the Hornli ridge.
Climbing the Matterhorn is an experience you will never forget. To enjoy it for yourself, all you have to do is send a request.
I also offer a 2-day ascent of the highest peak in the Alps: Mont Blanc, which you can enjoy here.
Price includes
- Guiding fee
Price details
- The price does not include transportation, accommodation for participants and guide, cable car usage and personal expenses.
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Cervinia - Capanna Carrel
Elevation gain: 1,028 m Ascent time: 4 h Meeting point: Cervinia for briefing and gear check. Transfer to the Oriondé Duca degli Abruzzi Hut (2,802 m), which can be reached by e-bike, Jeep, or cable car. From there, the ascent begins along a series of slabs up to the Colle del Leone (Lion Pass), where the climbing section starts. After a series of challenging passages, you reach the Carrel Hut (3,830 m), where you will spend the night.
Day 2: Capanna Carrel - Matterhorn - Descent
Elevation gain: 650 m Total time (ascent/descent): 12–14 hours Departure around 4:30 AM from the Carrel Hut, with the summit reached in about 5 hours, followed by the full descent back to Cervinia. The second day requires approximately 12 to 14 hours of activity in total. There are 650 meters of elevation gain and 1,678 meters of descent.
Details
Accommodation
Carrel Hut (3,830 m)
More info
Participants should bring the following items: helmet, harness, boots, crampons and classic ice axes, headlamp, 2 snap-hook carabiners, 1 lanyard strap, sunglasses, sunscreen, backpack, personal clothing.
FAQs
What is the Matterhorn Lion Ridge route like?
The Lion Ridge (Cresta del Leone) is the Italian normal route to climb the Matterhorn. It’s an exposed and technical alpine ridge that requires climbing on rock, mixed terrain (snow and ice depending on conditions), and using fixed aids such as ropes and ladders.
How difficult is this climb?
This is a demanding high-altitude alpine climb, rated Grade III with sections up to IV+. It’s suitable only for experienced alpinists with excellent fitness, a strong head for heights, and solid skills on exposed rock and mixed terrain.
Do I need prior experience for this climb?
Yes. You should have previous experience in alpine climbs involving rock and mixed terrain, and be confident moving on exposed ridges at altitude.
Where does the climb start?
The climb begins in Breuil-Cervinia, Italy. From there, you ascend to the Duca degli Abruzzi Hut and continue to the Carrel Hut, where the technical section begins.
Where do we sleep during the ascent?
The overnight is typically spent at the Carrel Hut (Bivacco Carrel), a high-altitude bivouac hut situated along the Lion Ridge
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will need standard alpine climbing gear, including helmet, harness, crampons, ice axe, mountaineering boots, and appropriate clothing for high alpine conditions. A full gear list will be required upon booking.
About the guide
Marco
4.8
(28)
Mountain Guide
My name is Marco Bigatti, nicknamed “Il Biga”. I was born in Milan, I started climbing in 2006 and since then I have not been able to tear myself away from the vertical world. I turned my passion into a job, becoming Mountain Guide in October 2017, the first mountain guide that lives all the year in Sardinia.
I experience the mountains from a 360-degree point of view. I have practiced all disciplines of climbing in the Alps: rock climbing, alpinism, ice climbing , as well as ski mountaineering.
In addition to alpinism, I love pure sport climbing, seeking out the best climbing sectors throughout the entire Alpine range. But it was in Sardinia that I found a paradise of crags, in particular in the south-west of the island, where you are able to enjoy all types of climbing throughout the year.
I offer climbing day or trips for beginners or experienced climbers who need a guide, multipitch packages for those who want to live an alpine experience, climbing courses, all-inclusive climbing holiday with accommodation in our nice B&B by the sea, guided trekking and mountain biking tours.
Certificates
UIAGM | IFMGA
What people are saying about this trip
Marko
It was great, we couldn't get to the top due to bad snow conditions. We climbed to Pic Tyndall and I'm more than happy. Marco was great, and very professional. I'll definitely choose your service again. Thanks for everything
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