Join IFMGA-certified guide Jyamchang on this incredible 31-day expedition to the summit of Ama Dablam in Nepal's Himalayas.
Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct, Nov
This 31-day program to the summit of Ama Dablam, in eastern Nepal, is a once in a lifetime expedition. I'll be happy to be your guide during this incredible journey to the top of one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalayas!
A team from New Zealand and the US first climbed Ama Dablam in 1961. We will follow the same route, via the south west ridge.
I was on Ama Dablam for the last time in March 2017. You'll read here the story about my adventure with Martin, a very friendly and strong Belgian mountaineer.
We will take 7 days to trek to Base Camp (4300m) via the Khumbu Valley. This hike will provide us with awesome views on Ama Dablam. You will also get the chance to experience the culture and hospitality of the Sherpa people.
Once at Base Camp, we will move the loads and equipment to Camp 1 (5300m), via a long path that will take us to the start of the south west ridge. The technical climbing starts from this point. The route follows the ridge leading directly to Camp 3 (6300m).
The route is quite exposed but not as steep as one would imagine. Therefore, climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt it.
Contact me if you dream of climbing Ama Dablam or any other peak in eastern Nepal. I will guide you there with much pleasure. I'm an IFMGA guide and you will feel and be 100% safe. I'll also enjoy sharing my knowledge about Nepal, its culture and my experience as a Nepalese mountain guide.
- Accommodation included
- Guiding fee
- Transportation start and back
- Transport during the trip
- Permit and entrance fees
- Group porters
Fly to Lukla. Walk to Monjo (2,835m)
You have five days to slowly walk to Pangboche (4,000m), which is the village nearest to base camp. The trek takes you through Namche Bazaar and Thyangboche, with its famous monastery. The team may choose to trek beyond Pangboche to Pheriche (4,300m), or alternatively, to base themselves at Pangboche for a couple of nights and trek to 4,300m above the village before moving to base camp.
It is a 3.5 hour walk to Base Camp from Pangboche. Base camp is a large open grassy area, where you will be accommodated in twin-sharing tents.
You will have a couple of days to get organized. There will be a fixed rope session and the team will walk to 5,000m on the ridge above base camp.
En route to the summit, you will utilise camps at 5,300m (ABC), 5,700m (Camp 1), 5,900m (Camp 2) and 6,300m (Camp 3). Most climbers choose to climb as far as Camp 2 as part of their acclimatisation, prior to a summit attempt. Initially, you will walk to ABC, sleep there, then carry a light load to Camp 1 before returning to BC. On your second rotation you will sleep at Camp 1, with the aim of climbing along the ridge to Camp 2. Some teams have a final rotation, where they sleep at Camp 2.
The route from BC to ABC is simple walking, unless there is ice and snow on the scree. ABC is located on a large plateau and not all teams use this, as water needs to be portered to it. The height gain from BC to Camp 1 is nearly 1,200m, so it is a good idea to split this initially by using an ABC. Above ABC is the infamous talus field, which must be traversed to reach the fixed ropes that lead up slabs to Camp 1. Camp 1 to Camp 2 is typically 70% on rock in dryish conditions, with sections of British Grade ‘Severe’. It culminates in a 15m vertical section to reach the top of the ‘Yellow Tower’, just short of Camp 2 (this is normally jumared, using a foot loop). Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in places, with the hardest part being below the Grey Tower. Above Camp 3 snow and ice on the summit slopes is as steep as 50°.
Hi! I'm Jyamchang, IFMGA/NNMGA certified mountain guide. I work together with a team of certified and professional mountain and trekking guides. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues will take great care of you.
I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009.
I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.
I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.
It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.
Nepali | English
NNMGA | IFMGA
After a year and a half of planning, a new attempt was made on Ama Dablam. This time a third person joined the climbing party. Acclimatisation on Lobuche gave us a foretaste of what the numerous pitches on Ama Dablam's steep terminal slopes would feel like. Good weather conditions and a swift Alpine style climb to C1, C2 and finally the summit concluded this project. Thank you so much Jyamchang for guiding us up there! The timing of the climb (before Autumn's commercial expeditions), choice of porters and additional logistics were once again very professional.
As some famous mountaineer once said about his Sherpa climbing partner, Jyamchang belongs to a new generation of Nepali guides who really love to climb. For them, mountaineering isn’t just about business. And that’s the reason why we got along very well whilst attempting the ascent of Ama Dablam in April 2017. We were lucky enough to be able to meet beforehand in Chamonix for a thorough check-up of the equipment and a briefing on the various logistics. I found him to be that kind of straight-to-the-point, smiling and organized person I was hoping to have as a guide and partner for an ambitious climb above 6000 meters, which I had only performed once before (on Island Peak). We met at the airport in Kathmandu and joined a good friend of mine and his trekking guide, who accompanied us during the acclimatization trip across the 3 passes and on to EBC. This gave us plenty of time to get our bodies accustomed to altitude. Jyamchang and I performed a daily health check-up to monitor the effects of altitude, a routine which I found to be very professional. We had agreed during our first Skype discussions that we were going to climb alpine style. That is minimum logistics, no fixed ropes etc. The idea of climbing a difficult mountain such as Ama Dablam without these facilitating artefacts strongly appealed to me, and I appreciated that Jyamchang pushed for this approach of the climb. This was not just pulling the client to the top of the mountain and then collecting the summit bonus. Unfortunately, due to poor weather conditions the day before summit day, we were unable to reach the summit. However, I found that Jyamchang’s attitude during the difficult descent with rapidly degrading weather conditions, and another party that we had to help descend, was again showing a professional and competent approach to the mountain environment. All in all, we had a great time in the beautiful surroundings of the Khumbu valley and may be climbing together again in a future expedition. I can strongly recommend Jyamchang for trekking and climbing elsewhere in the world (Jyamchang also guides in Norway). Martin, 32 - Belgium
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