Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct, Nov
Fly to Lukla. Walk to Monjo (2,835m)
You have five days to slowly walk to Pangboche (4,000m), which is the village nearest to base camp. The trek takes you through Namche Bazaar and Thyangboche, with its famous monastery. The team may choose to trek beyond Pangboche to Pheriche (4,300m), or alternatively, to base themselves at Pangboche for a couple of nights and trek to 4,300m above the village before moving to base camp.
It is a 3.5 hour walk to Base Camp from Pangboche. Base camp is a large open grassy area, where you will be accommodated in twin-sharing tents.
You will have a couple of days to get organized. There will be a fixed rope session and the team will walk to 5,000m on the ridge above base camp.
En route to the summit, you will utilise camps at 5,300m (ABC), 5,700m (Camp 1), 5,900m (Camp 2) and 6,300m (Camp 3). Most climbers choose to climb as far as Camp 2 as part of their acclimatisation, prior to a summit attempt. Initially, you will walk to ABC, sleep there, then carry a light load to Camp 1 before returning to BC. On your second rotation you will sleep at Camp 1, with the aim of climbing along the ridge to Camp 2. Some teams have a final rotation, where they sleep at Camp 2.
The route from BC to ABC is simple walking, unless there is ice and snow on the scree. ABC is located on a large plateau and not all teams use this, as water needs to be portered to it. The height gain from BC to Camp 1 is nearly 1,200m, so it is a good idea to split this initially by using an ABC. Above ABC is the infamous talus field, which must be traversed to reach the fixed ropes that lead up slabs to Camp 1. Camp 1 to Camp 2 is typically 70% on rock in dryish conditions, with sections of British Grade ‘Severe’. It culminates in a 15m vertical section to reach the top of the ‘Yellow Tower’, just short of Camp 2 (this is normally jumared, using a foot loop). Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in places, with the hardest part being below the Grey Tower. Above Camp 3 snow and ice on the summit slopes is as steep as 50°.
· All arrival and departure transfer services in Kathmandu
· 4 nights’ accommodation at Kathmandu on B/B basis (total number of nights at arrival and departure)
· Guide, cook, kitchen staffs and porters during the trekking and climbing, including wages, equipment, medical & accident insurances for all staff
· Domestic flight return ticket to the start location of the trek for all Members and staff
· All trekking and camping equipment camp (furniture, kitchen ware, dining tents, etc.)
· Large Base Camp tent (single basis)
· Mountain tents above Base Camp (twin shared basis)
· 3 meals a day (breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea or coffee) along with accommodation during the trek, at Base Camp and High Camps
· Climbing permit
· National park fee
· Garbage Deposit
· One Everest summiteer Climbing Sherpa per client (for the summit day) – National Guide / Aspirant Guide
· All costs related to the Government Liaison Officer
· First Aid medical kit for the Members and staff
· Satellite phone for security – available to Members at cost
· Radio set for security during climbing
· Required fixed and dynamic ropes during the climb
· Emergency Oxygen and Mask Regulator
· Government Taxes levied in Nepal
· Welcome Dinner in Kathmandu
· International flight fare from/to Kathmandu
· Any airport departure taxes which might be applicable at the time of the Expedition
· Visa fees
· Summit/Safety bonus USD 500.
· Tips for climbing, kitchen and porter staff (up to the Member to decide the amount)
· Any costs related to the Expedition terminating earlier than expected (such as additional nights in Kathmandu or changing international flight tickets)
· Any costs related to the Member having left the Expedition earlier than the rest of the group or having decided to spend one or more days in lodges when the rest of the Expedition is in Base Camp.
· Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (except welcome dinner)
· Extra hotel charges at Kathmandu (such as bar and laundry expenses)
· Optional trips or sightseeing tours
· Personal climbing equipment
· Travel insurance
· Personal repatriation and medical insurance (mandatory)
· Emergency evacuation and / or helicopter rescue if required
· Nepal custom duty for import of Expedition goods arriving into Nepal (if applicable)
· Personal expenses
Helicopter transfer from Base Camp to Lukla or Kathmandu is possible at extra cost. High Himalayan Climbing & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd. can arrange such flight for you at short notice. In order to have the best possible acclimatisation, flying to Base Camp by helicopter is absolutely not recommended.
I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009. I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.
I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.
It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.
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