Mountain Guide- Kathmandu
Hi! I'm Jyamchang, IFMGA/NNMGA certified mountain guide. I work together with a team of certified and professional mountain and trekking guides. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues will take great care of you.
I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009.
I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.
I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.
It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.
We had the pleasure of climbing Island Peak with High Himalayan; our trip included Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar and Island Peak. Jyamchang and his entire team did an extraordinary job of taking care of us, always doing the extra to take care of us and make sure we had the best possible opportunity to succeed with our climb. The team is both skilled and strong, and helped us in every possible way, such as carrying extra from our personal equipment to relieve our loads etc. We would not have succeeded on Island Peak without the care, support, help and patience from a strong team of climbing guides. One area for improvement; we would have appreciated more information about practicalities, equipment, itinerary etc before the trip. I hope to return to Nepal again in the not-too-distant future and would be happy to make a new trip with High Himalayan.
1. First of all, the trip is ill-advertised, referring to Jyamchang as the accompanying guide but in reality he is not the same guide who accompanied me. 2. I asked a number of questions on the explore-share platform, most of which remained unanswered until the day I met the actual guide in Kathmandu. 3. Most worrying, is the fact that I clearly asked if 14 days were enough to summit Mera (for which I have been told they are indeed enough). However, the first thing I was told upon arriving in Kathmandu was that I have little mountain time and that I should postpone my return flights. I was also later informed, that most people who successfully summit Mera usually take a day or two more acclimatisation days in Khare. 4. The agreed plan was to return from Lukla directly to Kathmandu. One day prior returning, I was informed that due to the high season, flights are redirected to another airport and an extra 6 hour drive is required to reach Kathmandu. Otherwise, to fly directly to Kathmandu one needs to catch a helicopter flight and add another 50USD. After researching, I found out that this is true and happens in the beginning of October, however the company failed to inform me and plan in advance. 5. Hotel in Kathmandu was basic but nice, however air conditioning and TV did not work and on my last day I even had ants on my bed, fridge and sink. 6. The guide and porter to whom I was allocated, Pekma and Ganesh, were really nice and helpful people. Pekma (guide) was knowledgeable about the surrounding environment, Nepalese lifestyle, had significant mountain experience and was very supportive throughout the trip. Pekma managed all lodges and tea houses which were adequate. Food in the mountains was good and Pekma always assisted what foods are best to eat according to the location and availability. I did not experience any gastrointestinal issues. In conclusion, I would not recommend this trip if you aim for a successful summit.
Beautiful trip and climb to Merapeak. Excellent guide!
I had Jyamchang as a guide for two expeditions, Himlung Himal in 2020 and Everest in 2021. Both were successful and it was great going on the mountain with him. I really appreciated his dedication and continuous care for the clients, together with his pride in maintaining a good level of service and the eagerness to succeed that got us to the summits.
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