Jyamchang

NNMGA Mountain Guide

Kathmandu

I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009. I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.
I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.
It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.

What People are Saying about Jyamchang

4 reviews

After a year and a half of planning, a new attempt was made on Ama Dablam. This time a third person joined the climbing party. Acclimatisation on Lobuche gave us a foretaste of what the numerous pitches on Ama Dablam\'s steep terminal slopes would feel like. Good weather conditions and a swift Alpine style climb to C1, C2 and finally the summit concluded this project. Thank you so much Jyamchang for guiding us up there! The timing of the climb (before Autumn\'s commercial expeditions), choice of porters and additional logistics were once again very professional.

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Martin

Excellent guide, à la fois attentionné et motivant. Il a su s\'adapter à notre rythme tout en nous stimulant suffisamment pour qu\'on atteigne nos objectifs quotidiens. Il nous faisait un briefing journalier avec le programme du lendemain et ses difficultés éventuelles et une vérification de notre adaptation à l\'altitude (pouls, saturation en oxygène). Dès le premier jour, il a tout pris en charge tant du point de vue de l\'organisation des transports que des hôtels sans faux pas.

Siham et Noémie

As some famous mountaineer once said about his Sherpa climbing partner, Jyamchang belongs to a new generation of Nepali guides who really love to climb. For them, mountaineering isn’t just about business. And that’s the reason why we got along very well whilst attempting the ascent of Ama Dablam in April 2017. We were lucky enough to be able to meet beforehand in Chamonix for a thorough check-up of the equipment and a briefing on the various logistics. I found him to be that kind of straight-to-the-point, smiling and organized person I was hoping to have as a guide and partner for an ambitious climb above 6000 meters, which I had only performed once before (on Island Peak). We met at the airport in Kathmandu and joined a good friend of mine and his trekking guide, who accompanied us during the acclimatization trip across the 3 passes and on to EBC. This gave us plenty of time to get our bodies accustomed to altitude. Jyamchang and I performed a daily health check-up to monitor the effects of altitude, a routine which I found to be very professional. We had agreed during our first Skype discussions that we were going to climb alpine style. That is minimum logistics, no fixed ropes etc. The idea of climbing a difficult mountain such as Ama Dablam without these facilitating artefacts strongly appealed to me, and I appreciated that Jyamchang pushed for this approach of the climb. This was not just pulling the client to the top of the mountain and then collecting the summit bonus. Unfortunately, due to poor weather conditions the day before summit day, we were unable to reach the summit. However, I found that Jyamchang’s attitude during the difficult descent with rapidly degrading weather conditions, and another party that we had to help descend, was again showing a professional and competent approach to the mountain environment. All in all, we had a great time in the beautiful surroundings of the Khumbu valley and may be climbing together again in a future expedition. I can strongly recommend Jyamchang for trekking and climbing elsewhere in the world (Jyamchang also guides in Norway). Martin, 32 - Belgium

It has now been two weeks since our departure from Kathmandu and we have had time to reminisce about the impressions Himalaya left us with. Everything from the fascinating streets of Kathmandu and the nerve wrecking flight to Lukla to the majestic views every step along the trek to Everest Base Camp and the Kalla Pathar height, are experiences we never will forget. Mid-February gave us the perfect combination of clear skies, not too cold weather and the least amount of tourists. We would recommend this period to all who have the same preferences. However, we are both confident that the experience would not have been the same without our guide Jyamchang from Highhimalayan. Jyamchang proved to have enough experience to always make the correct choices, both in respect of routes as well as accommodation. In addition, he gladly shared his thorough knowledge about the Himalayas and Nepalese history, which made the trek most educative. Safety was always in focus. For instance, throughout the journey we had the pleasure of daily summaries and check-ups on how we coped with the altitude, which even left us with enough knowledge to plan our next high altitude trek on our own. We also noted that we were the only trekkers with this kind of luxury and that the other guides seemed to use Jyamchang as the go-to guide for any and all types of questions. With his extremely positive attitude and big smile, it was like a dream being met each morning with a warm cup of “wake-up” tea! Thi!? In short, we are left with a truly magnificent experience and would like to thank Jyamchang for his contribution in making it so. We give Jyamchang our very best recommendations.

Alexander

Jyamchang

NNMGA Mountain Guide

Kathmandu

Programs

Kathmandu Guided Rock Climbing Programs

Climbing Mount Everest, South side

Climbing Mera Peak (6476m)

Climbing Mount Lhakpa Ri in Tibet

What People are Saying about Jyamchang

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