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Himalayan alpine mountaineering course

Learn mountaineering skills and apply them in the Himalayas with Jyamchang, IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this 25-day alpine mountaineering course.

Not specified

25 Days

Mar

Fit

Intermediate


Description

Where better to learn alpine mountaineering skills than the Himalayas? If you learn on some of the highest mountains in the world, you'll be prepared for anywhere future adventures take you. I want to help you realize your alpine mountaineering dreams. That's why I'm offering this 25-day alpine mountaineering course in the Himalayas in Nepal.

Based out of Kathmandu, we will trek to high altitude through the Gokyo Valley and to Everest base camp. Along the way, we practice many different crucial mountaineering skills, including first aid, crevasse rescue, and rope work. In this way, the course is really a combination of classes plus an expedition.

In fact, the full course includes over 6000 m of peak climbing, so you will be able to practice all the new skills you've learned. You'll also practice getting acclimatized to high mountain climates as we gain thousands of meters of altitude. Some summit highlights of the trip are Gokyo Ri, Lobuche, and Island Peak.

Since this is a very long and difficult program, you must think carefully about your own fitness before booking**. I am happy to help you decide if this alpine mountaineering course is right for you.** If you're looking for a Himalayan mountain experience without the emphasis on skill-building, then you can check out some of the other trips I lead in the area. For example, you can join me to climb Mt Lhakpa Ri in Tibet.

If you want to learn high alpine mountaineering skills, then this is the perfect trip for you. The Himalayas are the ideal place to learn, and you'll trek incredible routes and summit world famous peaks.

Inspired? Book your Himalayan alpine mountaineering course today! It will be a great experience of learning and trekking together.

Price includes

- Accommodation included

- Guiding fee

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

- Flight to the start

- Lift tickets

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Group porters

Price details

Price includes flights between Kathmandu and Lukla, but not your roundtrip flight from your home to Kathmandu. Price does not include tips for local staff- about USD 10 per day per porter. Personal travel insurance and medical insurance (required).


Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2: Kathmandu Preparations and First Aid Class

Day 3: Flight to Lukla – Trek to Phakding – 2656m

Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar – 3450m

Day 5: Acclimatization trek Namche Bazaar – 3450m

Day 6: Trek to Dole – 4040m, rope work

Day 7: Trek to Machermo – 4400m, rope work

Day 8: Acclimatization trek Machermo and training – 4452m, rock anchor different types

Day 9: Trek to Gokiyo Lake – 4750m, roping practice

Day 10: Hike up to Gokyo Ri 5364m, back to Dangnak - Himalaya crevasse rescue/theory

Day 11: Trek to Zongla 4830m, over Chola pass 5330 m, crevasse rescue practice

Day 12: Hike up to High camp of Lobuche, practice snow anchorage

Day 13: Summit day of Lobhuche peak, back to Lobuche or stay at high camp

Day 14: From Lobuche, hike to Kalapather, and Everest BC

Day 15: Trek to Chucking over Khongmala pass

Day 16: Chuking Peak, short rope practice

Day 17: Rest day, short rope and short rappel practice at cuckung around lodge

Day 18: Hike to island peak base camp

Day 19: Summit day for island peak, and back to base camp

Day 20: Back to Pangboche

Day 21: Back to Namche

Day 22: Back to Lukla

Day 23: Fly back to Kathmandu

Day 24: Free day in Kathmandu

Day 25: Fly home

 

Details

More info

You must be physically and mentally well-prepared, with some basic technical mountaineering and climbing skills. Guide ratio 10 : 3.

Meeting point

Kathmandu

About the guide

Guide profile image

Jyamchang & Guides' Team

4.50

(8)

Mountain Guide

Hi! I'm Jyamchang, IFMGA/NNMGA certified mountain guide. I work together with a team of certified and professional mountain and trekking guides. If I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues will take great care of you.

I come from the East part of Nepal, between Makalu (8,470m) and Kangchenjunga (8,586m). I am IFMGA/UIAGM fully certified since 2009.

I have 20+ experience of climbing in the Himalaya. I’ve climbed Mt Everest (7 times), Mt Cho Oyu in Tibet (2 times), Mt Ama Dablam (8 times), Baruntse (2 times), Island peak (15 times), Lobuche (10 times), Pokhalde (10 times), Mera peak (10 times), Mehera peak (5 times), Chulu far east (3 times), Mt Shishapangma until camp 3, Manaslu until 7200m, and Chulu West, Lhakpa ri and other another few more times.

I also have extensive experience of climbing in Europe: France, Italy, UK and Norway (where I work for three months during the summer as a glacier guide).
I'm also a technical mountain rescue coordinator for the 8000's.

It will be my pleasure to guide you through your journey whether for trekking, peak climbing or any mountaineering expedition. Get in touch and let's discuss about the purpose of your trip.

Languages

Nepali | English

Certificates

NNMGA | IFMGA

Request more information

What people are saying about Jyamchang & Guides' Team

Martin

5.00

After a year and a half of planning, a new attempt was made on Ama Dablam. This time a third person joined the climbing party. Acclimatisation on Lobuche gave us a foretaste of what the numerous pitches on Ama Dablam's steep terminal slopes would feel like. Good weather conditions and a swift Alpine style climb to C1, C2 and finally the summit concluded this project. Thank you so much Jyamchang for guiding us up there! The timing of the climb (before Autumn's commercial expeditions), choice of porters and additional logistics were once again very professional.

Martin

5.00

As some famous mountaineer once said about his Sherpa climbing partner, Jyamchang belongs to a new generation of Nepali guides who really love to climb. For them, mountaineering isn’t just about business. And that’s the reason why we got along very well whilst attempting the ascent of Ama Dablam in April 2017. We were lucky enough to be able to meet beforehand in Chamonix for a thorough check-up of the equipment and a briefing on the various logistics. I found him to be that kind of straight-to-the-point, smiling and organized person I was hoping to have as a guide and partner for an ambitious climb above 6000 meters, which I had only performed once before (on Island Peak). We met at the airport in Kathmandu and joined a good friend of mine and his trekking guide, who accompanied us during the acclimatization trip across the 3 passes and on to EBC. This gave us plenty of time to get our bodies accustomed to altitude. Jyamchang and I performed a daily health check-up to monitor the effects of altitude, a routine which I found to be very professional. We had agreed during our first Skype discussions that we were going to climb alpine style. That is minimum logistics, no fixed ropes etc. The idea of climbing a difficult mountain such as Ama Dablam without these facilitating artefacts strongly appealed to me, and I appreciated that Jyamchang pushed for this approach of the climb. This was not just pulling the client to the top of the mountain and then collecting the summit bonus. Unfortunately, due to poor weather conditions the day before summit day, we were unable to reach the summit. However, I found that Jyamchang’s attitude during the difficult descent with rapidly degrading weather conditions, and another party that we had to help descend, was again showing a professional and competent approach to the mountain environment. All in all, we had a great time in the beautiful surroundings of the Khumbu valley and may be climbing together again in a future expedition. I can strongly recommend Jyamchang for trekking and climbing elsewhere in the world (Jyamchang also guides in Norway). Martin, 32 - Belgium

Joel

5.00

Our guide Phurpur was amazing and the climb was surreal. However, we finished the trip early due to a fast pace while walking and this meant we had to pay for our own food and accommodation from day 17 to 20. Which we felt was unjust as we were penalised for going faster than normal, had we known this was the case we wouldn’t have done it. Also be warned, although our guide was amazing, we didn’t get the IFMGA guide as advertised, we got a trekking guide. Finally, we did not receive a 3-day glacier course as promised on the itinerary. We raised these points to Jyamchang, but no compromise was made on their behalf. Overall, happy with the guide but very disappointed with the company and how they dealt with our situation. If the listing was properly advertised and you received what was listed with no catches and clauses we would have been happy, but this is not the case.

Jon-Kristian

5.00

We had the pleasure of climbing Island Peak with High Himalayan; our trip included Everest Base Camp, Kala Patthar and Island Peak. Jyamchang and his entire team did an extraordinary job of taking care of us, always doing the extra to take care of us and make sure we had the best possible opportunity to succeed with our climb. The team is both skilled and strong, and helped us in every possible way, such as carrying extra from our personal equipment to relieve our loads etc. We would not have succeeded on Island Peak without the care, support, help and patience from a strong team of climbing guides. One area for improvement; we would have appreciated more information about practicalities, equipment, itinerary etc before the trip. I hope to return to Nepal again in the not-too-distant future and would be happy to make a new trip with High Himalayan.

Roberto

1.00

1. First of all, the trip is ill-advertised, referring to Jyamchang as the accompanying guide but in reality he is not the same guide who accompanied me. 2. I asked a number of questions on the explore-share platform, most of which remained unanswered until the day I met the actual guide in Kathmandu. 3. Most worrying, is the fact that I clearly asked if 14 days were enough to summit Mera (for which I have been told they are indeed enough). However, the first thing I was told upon arriving in Kathmandu was that I have little mountain time and that I should postpone my return flights. I was also later informed, that most people who successfully summit Mera usually take a day or two more acclimatisation days in Khare. 4. The agreed plan was to return from Lukla directly to Kathmandu. One day prior returning, I was informed that due to the high season, flights are redirected to another airport and an extra 6 hour drive is required to reach Kathmandu. Otherwise, to fly directly to Kathmandu one needs to catch a helicopter flight and add another 50USD. After researching, I found out that this is true and happens in the beginning of October, however the company failed to inform me and plan in advance. 5. Hotel in Kathmandu was basic but nice, however air conditioning and TV did not work and on my last day I even had ants on my bed, fridge and sink. 6. The guide and porter to whom I was allocated, Pekma and Ganesh, were really nice and helpful people. Pekma (guide) was knowledgeable about the surrounding environment, Nepalese lifestyle, had significant mountain experience and was very supportive throughout the trip. Pekma managed all lodges and tea houses which were adequate. Food in the mountains was good and Pekma always assisted what foods are best to eat according to the location and availability. I did not experience any gastrointestinal issues. In conclusion, I would not recommend this trip if you aim for a successful summit.


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