Climbing in Martuljek group, Julian Alps

At the heart of the Julian Alps, the wild and hard to reach Martuljek group offers many opportunities for mountaineers and climbers.

This is an ideal place for those seeking wild pristine mountains, away from the crowds of the most popular mountain peaks.

In fact, Martuljek is the most inaccessible group of the Julian Alps. The peaks on this wild corner of the Alps have amazing steep walls and no marked paths leading to any of them.

My favorite routes on the Martuljek group:

Route nameHighlightsPrice per person (EUR) 12 Široka pečThe queen of Martuljek. It has a jagged ridge that resembles an enchanted fortress. It’s one of the hardest mountains to reach in the Julian Alps.

1700 m of ascent, 10-12 hours, climbing up to UIAA III+

310200Mala Martuljška PoncaA nice round tour with a visit to both cirques Pod srcem and Za Akom.

1750 m of ascent, 9-11 hours, climbing up to UIAA II on the summit ridge.

300170Mali Oltar – Bučer-Kristan RouteAn enjoyable climbing in good rock leading to a pointy summit. A nice route with a rugged descent.

1700 m of ascent, 400 m UIAA IV route included. 9-12 hours.

340210Špik – Direct RouteThis is a route of historical importance that used to be one of the hardest climbs of the Alps. It was climbed in 1926 by a Slovenian female alpinist, Mira Marko Debelakova.

900 m route, UIAA V+.

460–Rigljica – Rušica TraverseA steep and varied ridge that offers magnificent views of Martuljek group.

1300 m of ascent, UIAA III, 9-12 hours.

310200

Please, contact me if you want to join me for one or several climbs in the Martuljek group. I can help you choose the best option for you and make sure you have an unforgettable experience!