Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, takes you on a 12-day climbing trip to Mount Elbrus in the Caucasus, from the West Side, in complete autonomy.
Join me for this 12-day adventure in Mount Elbrus (5,642 m). The route from the West side will require us to climb by our own means, and that is without lift, snow cat, hotel and shelter.
We are going to be alone in the mountain! Nevertheless, I can assure you’ll see an entire different side of Elbrus. Rock walls, including the famous rock walls of Kyukyurtlyu,. and stunning ice formations will be part of the reward..
After the descent, we will have the chance to visit Djily-Suu, a small resort which has mineral water springs. We will enjoy warm baths and natural mineral water to drink.
The climbing route goes mainly through the glacier and moraine. We will climb a snow-ice slope to a rock ground on 4,400 m. If the weather is good, you’ll enjoy this place. From there, an inclined slope leads to the summit.
The two-headed ice giant crowns the panorama of the Central Caucasus. It is by at least 1,000 m higher than all its neighbors. A volcano crater, filled now with ice and snow, forms the summit plateaux with a diameter of 150-200 m. All the massif is covered by a gigantic ice cap.
Climbing Mount Elbrus through the West Side route is technically challenging. In fact, it is more difficult than going through the North and South parts of the mountain. Because of this, it’s important that you have a technical preparation.
In case we cannot do the traverse from the West to South part (due to bad weather or any another reason), we’ll descend by the ascent route.
For further details, you can find a day-by-day itinerary below this description.
If you want to be a part of this wonderful adventure, please get in touch with me. It will be a pleasure to let you discover my region and bring you on top of this giant mountain!
I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you.
- DBL accommodation in «Intourist» hotel in Pyatigorsk (2 nights with breakfast); - 1 night in the hotel in Terskol DBL accommodation with breakfast & dinner; - 1 night in the Barrells Refuge full board; - Camp in tents.
Arrival to Mineralnye Vody (Mineral Waters) airport. 1-hour transfer to Pyatigorsk city.
Accommodation in a hotel. Briefing and check of the equipment.
5-6 hours transfer to Pyatigorsk – Cherkessk – Karachaevsk – Uchkulan – Churzuk.
Setting tents in Djilisu base camp (2,500 m) in the Ullu-Churzuk Valley. Overnight in tents.
Acclimatization ascent to Camp 1 (3,600 m) on the moraine of Bityuk- Tyube glacier. Return to BC, 4 h up, 2 h down.
Ascent to Camp 1. Setting tents. Overnight there.
Acclimatization day. Training in fix-rope. Return to Camp 1.
Ascent to Camp 2 (4,200 m). Going 400 m on moraine and then snow-ice slope (3 ropes). Night in the Camp 2.
Ascent to Camp 3 (4,600 m). Up on snow-ice slope, 8 ropes, (2 ropes about 70 º), then traverse to the Western plateau. Night in Camp 3.
Ascent of Elbrus West (5,642 m) 5-6 h. Descent to the Barrels Refuge (3780 m) 3-4 h. Night in the Barrels Refuge.
Reserved day in case of bad weather.
Descent in cable-lift to Terskol village. Night in the hotel.
Return to Pyatigorsk city. Stay in the hotel.
Transfer to the Mineralnye Vody airport. Flight home.
I'm an IFMGA-certified guide and have been guiding for the past 15 years.
I got the chance to do beautiful ascents like the Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Mont Cook, McKinley, 7000m Peaks in ex-USSR, technical climbing In the Caucasus, new climbing routes in the USA, ski-touring in Alps, Russia etc.
I'm an expert in the Elbrus region. I know every corner of it and will be happy to guide you to the summit, at 5.642m high, skiing or walking.
Please get in touch with me and let's leave together for a wonderful adventure in the incredible Caucasus mountain range!
I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!
My favorite saying: "We will either find a way, or make one".
This was my second trip together with Ivan Moshnikov. It\'s safe to say that everbody in our group absolutely loved it. We had a great time in Russia and it was an absolut blast. Even though we were not able to experience \"true Mamay snorking powder\" we still skied perfect snow for 7 days in a row. I threw my mobile in a corner in the first day and did not pick it up until 8 wonderfull days filled with skiing, amazing food, going to sauna and enyoing wonderfull company. However, if you a looking for a super lonely place, Mamay is probably not the right choice. The valley gets visited frequently by locals and other tourists. Still, there is enough place for everybody I think. 10/10 I will definitly come again. Many thanks to Yulia, Roma and Stepan!
It was a great adventure! I got answer to the few questions I have prior my departure and the support to get the required document. Once in Irkutsk we met with Ivan and depart to Mamay Valley where we had unbelievable snow. Days with snow where enjoyed in the forest with unbelievable amount of powder and days with sun were enjoyed higher up on the ridges where we could enjoy nice views, untouched snow and 5***** powder! I would repeat over and over again. The hut is really cosy and we have all what we need for a week of adventures. The sauna is a good think to do in the evenings before great dinners.
The skitouring in Mamay as coordinated by Ivan was absolutely fantastic! Our guide Roman Romanov did a brilliant job in finding the best snow and runs, taking all of our needs into account and was very professional. The hut was really cozy, the food delicious and the sauna after skiing were the ideal finish to the perfect ski day!
It was great to be with Ivan. Above all, I came through him in an area that I otherwise would not have been able to travel. He really took good care of everything and I learned a lot. DychTau is a mountain that demands a lot from the beginning to the end!
Vladimir was our guide for summiting of Mount Kazbegi in July, 2019. He was a brilliant guide, as well as champion snow boarder, and I would highly recommend him for anyone planning climbing Kazbegi or Elbrus.