Marco, an IFMGA mountain guide, has the perfect program for advanced mountaineers. Join his 2-day ascent to the second highest peak in the Alps: the Dufour peak (4634 m)
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
The highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif and the second highest in the Alps, does not need much introduction to become irresistible for mountaineers.
The compelling summit of the Dufour peak at 4634 m, and the clouds beneath your feet once you reach it, are two powerful reasons to join me in this exciting 2-day guided ascent.
We will meet in Alagna, take the cable car until Punta Indren and walk easily towards the Mantova hut (at 3500 m) to have dinner and spend the night.
On the following day we will start very early and ascend to Punta Gnifetti, a peak at 4554 m. Then, we will go to our left to get to the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. Afterwards, it will get more difficult but more beautiful: we will make a steep descent towards Col Pope and then, with a mixed-climb, we will ascend again until we reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak.
It is important that you have an excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons, as well as basic rock climbing experience. Keep in mind that this itinerary develops in a very varied terrain with narrow snow ridges. Because this is a challenging ascent, you will have a 1 on 1 client to guide experience.
If you have the attitude and the conditions, join this program. I am waiting for your request.
If you are a beginner but you still desire to explore this area, check this one day climb to Punta Giordano peak, in the Monte Rosa massif.
We will meet in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After checking our equipment, we take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there, with an easy walk we will arrive at the Mantova Hut (3500 m). We will have dinner and stay there for the night.
We will arrive at the Colle Gnifetti glacier. From there, we will turn left to reach the top of the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. After a descent and another ascent, we will reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak. From there, the ridge goes quite flat but narrow and exposed until the big cross of the higher top. The descent is along the same itinerary.
This itinerary offers a varied terrain with narrow snow ridges maximum 50° steep and some rock climbing. Technically, the rocky steps are never more than III° grade but you have to move always with the crampons on over 4500 meters.
Keep in mind that overnight at Margherita hut is suggested only to mountaineers with a very good acclimatization.
Alagna lift station
I am Marco, and I am an UIAGM certified mountain guide since 2003. I started rock climbing when I was 14, and at the age of 20 I climbed the great Californian walls of El Capitan. Then i explored Patagonia, climbing the mythical Fitz Roy. I have also opened new routes in the Moroccan High Atlas and in the Alps.
My passion for the mountains drives me to work throughout the year, looking for new adventures. Depending on the season, I take my clients rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, freeriding, hiking... Either in the Alps, since i'm based in the Monte Rosa area, or in many other countries, in different continents.
The mountain as a playground has no limits!
Italian | French | English
Alagna Valsesia, Piedmont
Nicholas and Digby
I just wanted to thank you very much for all the help in the difficult snow conditions. The primary aim of teaching Digby and reminding me of avalanche protocols and about skinning have been fully achieved. You made it all fund, clear and precise. Too bad we had poor conditions, but we still found some reasonable snow and mashed an awesome couloir, so we did really well considering. So thank you very much and only sorry that we could not make full use of you for the full five days.
The traveller did not leave a comment.
Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!
We had an amazing climbing experience which was primarily duw to the excellent and experienced guide (Marco and Paolo). High calibre individuals wgo really care about the group’s well being and pushing the tea. To their limits in a good way. The only comment we have is the primitive toilet facilities and lack of water to wash up at Margerita hutte.
Marco helped arrange for our group to have 2 amazing guides: Paolo and Pietro. We were a large group of 11 people with no glacier crossing experience as well as variable fitness and comfort levels. Our guides brought all the necessary equipment and made sure that safely was a priority. They helped give extra support to those in the group that needed assistance. There is a brand new route to the Monte Rosa Hutte (open since mid-June 2019). Our guides hadn't taken the new route yet and took us on the old route on the way up to the hut. After having a day to gauge the group ability, and gathering more information about the new route at the hut, we did the new route on the way back to Zermatt. Everyone in the group had a great time.
Our guide was Pietro and not marco like we initially thought. Pietro was awesome, it is all about his clients and most importantly safety. We did two runs and it was an incredible experience. Guide is a must to explore the hidden spots because Monterosa ski is massive.
PAOLO was an amazing guide. This trip was the “craziest” experience of our groups lives. We saw incredible terrain, had great snow, and challenged ourselves. Highly recommend
We had a fablupus day. We were initially booked with Marco but due to the weather we went later in the week and Marco wasn't available. We had another guide called Paolo Tombini and he was very good, very professional and good company.
Group of 1
EUR 1031 Each
Want a different number of travellers?
- Guiding fee
The price does not include round trip cable car Alagna/Indren, half board at the hut or personal insurance. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be divided among participants.
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