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Dufour peak (4634 m) 2-day guided ascent

Paolo, an IFMGA mountain guide, has the perfect program for advanced mountaineers. Join his 2-day ascent to the second highest peak in the Alps: the Dufour peak (4634 m)

Not specified

Alps

2 Days

Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep

Extremely Fit

Advanced


Description

The highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif and the second highest in the Alps, does not need much introduction to become irresistible for mountaineers.

The compelling summit of the Dufour peak at 4634 m, and the clouds beneath your feet once you reach it, are two powerful reasons to join me in this exciting 2-day guided ascent.

We will meet in Alagna, take the cable car until Punta Indren and walk easily towards the Mantova hut (at 3500 m) to have dinner and spend the night.

On the following day we will start very early and ascend to Punta Gnifetti, a peak at 4554 m. Then, we will go to our left to get to the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. Afterwards, it will get more difficult but more beautiful: we will make a steep descent towards Col Pope and then, with a mixed-climb, we will ascend again until we reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak.

It is important that you have an excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons, as well as basic rock climbing experience. Keep in mind that this itinerary develops in a very varied terrain with narrow snow ridges. Because this is a challenging ascent, you will have a 1 on 1 client to guide experience.

If you have the attitude and the conditions, join this program. I am waiting for your request.

If you are a beginner but you still desire to explore this area, check this one day climb to Punta Giordano peak, in the Monte Rosa massif.

Price includes

- Guiding fee

Price details

The price does not include round trip cable car Alagna/Indren, half board at the hut or personal insurance. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be divided among participants.


Itinerary

Day 1: Walk up to Mantova Hut at 3480 m

We will meet in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After checking our equipment, we take the cable car up to Punta  Indren. From there, with an easy walk we will arrive at the Mantova Hut (3500 m). We will have dinner and stay there for the night.

Day 2: Ascent to the top of the Dufour Peak

We will arrive at the Colle Gnifetti glacier. From there, we will turn left to reach the top of the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. After a descent and another ascent, we will reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak. From there, the ridge goes quite flat but narrow and exposed until the big cross of the higher top. The descent is along the same itinerary.

 

Details

Accommodation

Mantova hut.

More info

This itinerary offers a varied terrain with narrow snow ridges maximum 50° steep and some rock climbing. Technically, the rocky steps are never more than III° grade but you have to move always with the crampons on over 4500 meters.

Keep in mind that overnight at Margherita hut is suggested only to mountaineers with a very good acclimatization.

Meeting point

Alagna lift station

About the guide

Strange to say, I began my climbing career after I left behind my valley and my own mountains.


When I finished high school I moved to Turin, in order to get a mechanical engineer degree.
There I started to climb on a little indoor wall at the University Sport Centre and, very soon, I found myself dreaming on the greatest alps walls. I lived adventures made of fun, fatigue and satisfaction, I shared them with many friends who became climbing partners as well.


In Turin I got my degree and I worked for some years as a mechanical engineer consultant but, more than that, I discovered a new way to live and look at the mountains: sometimes they became playgrounds with attractions for everyone, sometimes a shelter, where to find myself again.


Meanwhile, an idea started to grow inside me and became a dream; a dream I would never give up: working in an office as big as the alps!


Making the long story short, I applied for the mountain guide training, had a huge professional development and became a UIAGM mountain guide.


Now I’m working full-time as a mountain guide, sharing my passion with a lot of different people on the Alps, since I'm based in the Monte Rosa area, but also around the world.

Languages

Italian | French | English

Residence

Alagna Valsesia, Piedmont


What people are saying about Paolo Zanoli

Nicholas and Digby

5.00

January, 2022

I just wanted to thank you very much for all the help in the difficult snow conditions.  The primary aim of teaching Digby and reminding me of avalanche protocols and about skinning have been fully achieved.  You made it all fund, clear and precise. Too bad we had poor conditions, but we still found some reasonable snow and mashed an awesome couloir, so we did really well considering. So thank you very much and only sorry that we could not make full use of you for the full five days.

Steven Jeanty

5.00

August, 2021

The traveller did not leave a comment.

Frans Blommestein

5.00

July, 2021

Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!

Nienke

5.00

August, 2020

We had an amazing climbing experience which was primarily duw to the excellent and experienced guide (Marco and Paolo). High calibre individuals wgo really care about the group’s well being and pushing the tea. To their limits in a good way. The only comment we have is the primitive toilet facilities and lack of water to wash up at Margerita hutte.

Eilish McConville

5.00

July, 2019

Marco helped arrange for our group to have 2 amazing guides: Paolo and Pietro. We were a large group of 11 people with no glacier crossing experience as well as variable fitness and comfort levels. Our guides brought all the necessary equipment and made sure that safely was a priority. They helped give extra support to those in the group that needed assistance. There is a brand new route to the Monte Rosa Hutte (open since mid-June 2019). Our guides hadn't taken the new route yet and took us on the old route on the way up to the hut. After having a day to gauge the group ability, and gathering more information about the new route at the hut, we did the new route on the way back to Zermatt. Everyone in the group had a great time.

Arielle Falcone

5.00

March, 2018

Our guide was Pietro and not marco like we initially thought. Pietro was awesome, it is all about his clients and most importantly safety. We did two runs and it was an incredible experience. Guide is a must to explore the hidden spots because Monterosa ski is massive.

James Miller

5.00

February, 2018

PAOLO was an amazing guide. This trip was the “craziest” experience of our groups lives. We saw incredible terrain, had great snow, and challenged ourselves. Highly recommend

Lorne Brown

5.00

February, 2018

We had a fablupus day. We were initially booked with Marco but due to the weather we went later in the week and Marco wasn't available. We had another guide called Paolo Tombini and he was very good, very professional and good company.


 

 

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