Dufour peak (4634 m) 2-day guided ascent
Paolo, an IFMGA mountain guide, has the perfect program for advanced mountaineers. Join his 2-day ascent to the second highest peak in the Alps: the Dufour peak (4634 m)
Alps
2 Days
Jun - Sep
Very high
Advanced
Description
The highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif and the second highest in the Alps, does not need much introduction to become irresistible for mountaineers.
The compelling summit of the Dufour peak at 4634 m, and the clouds beneath your feet once you reach it, are two powerful reasons to join me in this exciting 2-day guided ascent.
We will meet in Alagna, take the cable car until Punta Indren and walk easily towards the Mantova hut (at 3500 m) to have dinner and spend the night.
On the following day we will start very early and ascend to Punta Gnifetti, a peak at 4554 m. Then, we will go to our left to get to the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. Afterwards, it will get more difficult but more beautiful: we will make a steep descent towards Col Pope and then, with a mixed-climb, we will ascend again until we reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak.
It is important that you have an excellent physical shape, good training and practice in the use of ice axe and crampons, as well as basic rock climbing experience. Keep in mind that this itinerary develops in a very varied terrain with narrow snow ridges. Because this is a challenging ascent, you will have a 1 on 1 client to guide experience.
If you have the attitude and the conditions, join this program. I am waiting for your request.
If you are a beginner but you still desire to explore this area, check this one day climb to Punta Giordano peak, in the Monte Rosa massif.
Price includes
- Guiding fee
Price details
- The price does not include round trip cable car Alagna/Indren, half board at the hut or personal insurance. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be divided among participants.
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Walk up to Mantova Hut at 3480 m
We will meet in Alagna (lift station) at 2 p.m. After checking our equipment, we take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there, with an easy walk we will arrive at the Mantova Hut (3500 m). We will have dinner and stay there for the night.
Day 2: Ascent to the top of the Dufour Peak
We will arrive at the Colle Gnifetti glacier. From there, we will turn left to reach the top of the Zumstein peak at 4563 m. After a descent and another ascent, we will reach the Italian summit of the Dufour peak. From there, the ridge goes quite flat but narrow and exposed until the big cross of the higher top. The descent is along the same itinerary.
Details
More info
This itinerary offers a varied terrain with narrow snow ridges maximum 50° steep and some rock climbing. Technically, the rocky steps are never more than III° grade but you have to move always with the crampons on over 4500 meters.
Keep in mind that overnight at Margherita hut is suggested only to mountaineers with a very good acclimatization.
About the guide
Paolo
4.9
(14)
Mountain Guide
Strange to say, I began my climbing career after I left behind my valley and my own mountains.
When I finished high school I moved to Turin, in order to get a mechanical engineer degree.
There I started to climb on a little indoor wall at the University Sport Centre and, very soon, I found myself dreaming on the greatest alps walls. I lived adventures made of fun, fatigue and satisfaction, I shared them with many friends who became climbing partners as well.
In Turin I got my degree and I worked for some years as a mechanical engineer consultant but, more than that, I discovered a new way to live and look at the mountains: sometimes they became playgrounds with attractions for everyone, sometimes a shelter, where to find myself again.
Meanwhile, an idea started to grow inside me and became a dream; a dream I would never give up: working in an office as big as the alps!
Making the long story short, I applied for the mountain guide training, had a huge professional development and became a UIAGM mountain guide.
Now I’m working full-time as a mountain guide, sharing my passion with a lot of different people on the Alps, since I'm based in the Monte Rosa area, but also around the world.
Languages
Italian | English | Spanish
What people are saying about Paolo
Matsvei
Amazing guide, amazing location!
Jay
Paolo was truly an excellent guide. Phenomenal knowledge of the backcountry, excellent pacing on the climbs and downhills. Paolo was able to find some good snow in a year where there has not been much snow.
I just wanted to thank you very much for all the help in the difficult snow conditions. The primary aim of teaching Digby and reminding me of avalanche protocols and about skinning have been fully achieved. You made it all fund, clear and precise. Too bad we had poor conditions, but we still found some reasonable snow and mashed an awesome couloir, so we did really well considering. So thank you very much and only sorry that we could not make full use of you for the full five days.
Steven
Frans
Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!
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