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Guided ascent to Alpamayo and Quitaraju summits


Magno, IFMGA certified mountain guide, will take you to the summits of the impressive Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Join him hiking in the mountains of Peru!


17 Days

Jun - Sep


Join me in this 17-day adventure to ascend two mythical summits of PeruAlpamayo and Quitaraju are our goals for this expedition. They are two giants of the Peruvian Andes. I designed the trip to combine the two ascents in a fun and safe way. It will be a long trip, but definitely worth the effort!

Alpamayo (5947m), our first objective, is considered "the most beautiful mountain in the world". Indeed, this formidable pyramid draped with flutes of ice is unique in the world. Then, we will ascend the Quitaraju (6036m) through its imposing north face.

Hiking up to these summits will allow you to fully enjoy the magnificent landscapes of Cordillera Blanca.

This program is aimed for adventurers in good physical shape and with technical experience in the high mountain.

I can take up to 2 people with me, but if you are a larger group more guides will join us. In any case, there will be maximum 2 people per guide.

Did you find this ascent of the two impressive peaks interesting? Then please contact me for more information! And to further explore South America, you can also get in touch with me about this 16-day Chilean Patagonia hiking tour.

Price includes

- Accommodation included

- Guiding fee

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Group porters


Day 1: Meeting at Lima airport

We meet at the airport and transfer by taxi to your hotel in Miraflores neighbourhood. Its location is ideal to discover Lima. There are great restaurants, shops, bars and museums. Dinner not included.

Day 2: Lima - Huaraz

Transfer in the morning to the bus terminal. After 7 hours (lunch included, on the bus) we get to Huaraz, the capital of Ancash. It’s a center of South American mountaineering. We check in at the hotel. Dinner not included.

Day 3: Huaraz (acclimatization in Willcacocha)

We leave in the morning for the Willcacocha lake (3725m), at the Cordillera Negra. The Cordillera Blanca extends in front of us in all its glory. We return to Huaraz in the mid afternoon. Dinner not included.

Day 4: Huaraz - Quebrada Ulta

Transfer to the Ulta valley, where we start the trek. The imposing summit of Huascaran (6768m) dominates the landscape. It’s the highest tropical mountain in the world. We meet the mule drivers at this point.

Day 5: Quebrada Ulta - Quebrada Keshu

We go up the Quebrada Cancahuapampa through fields of wild lupins and a forest of quenoals, to reach the Yanayacu pass. The name of this pass means “black waters” in Quechua. We descend to the Ichic Ulta valley until Keshu and set camp.

Day 6: Quebrada Keshu - Cachinapampa

We go through the villages of Machco, Chalhua and Colcabamba. We go up the Huaripampa valley , where we see the locals in their regular activities. We set camp at Cachinapampa in front of Taulliraju (the ice rabbit).

Day 7: Cachinapampa - Tuctupampa

An easy ascent going through fields and magnificent quenoals forests. We reach the Tuctupampa camp during the day. We can climb until the Pucaraju pass (4640m) – optional.

Day 8: Tuctupampa - Base camp

We follow a marked path to gain altitude fast. We reach the Punta Unión pass (4760m) with magnificent views over some giants of the Cordillera. It’s definitely worth the effort! Then we descend on the western side of the Cordillera. We reach the Almpamayo base camp in the afternoon.

Day 9: Base Camp - Camp 1

A demanding ascent until a moraine at the foot of the glacier. Once equipped and roped we have 400 extra meters to reach the pass (5500m).

Day 10: Camp 1 - Alpamayo - Camp 1

We leave when it’s still night to arrive first at the foot of the “normal French route”. We ascend until the summit, then descend abseiling. We get back to the camp early in the afternoon.

Day 11: Camp 1

Resting day.

Day 12: Camp 1 - Quitaraju - Camp 1

We leave at dawn. Upon reaching the summit, the views over the Santa Cruz massif are impressive. A long descent abseiling takes us back to the camp.

Day 13: Camp 1 - Base camp

We descend to the base camp and rest.

Day 14: Base camp - Llamacorral

We continue our descent in the Santa Cruz valley. We set camp at Llamacorral.

Day 15: Llamacorral - Cashapampa - Huaraz

We follow the river in a valley with a tempered microclimate. The vegetation is dense and varied. We reach Cashapampa in the late morning. Transfer to Huaraz. Dinner not included.

Day 16: Huaraz - Lima

Transfer to Lima. Overnight in hotel. Lunch included, on the bus, dinner not included.

Day 17: Transfer to the airport

You have the day off in Lima until the transfer to the airport.



More info

All meals are included except for lunch and dinner at Huaraz and Lima.

Meeting point

At Lima airport.

About the guide

Guide profile image


Mountain Leader

I'm Mountain guide AGMP (Peru) since 1982 and IFMGA (international) since 1988. Technical Director of AGMP (Association of Mountain Guides of Peru) since 1996, I train future mountain guides.

I started as a porter helping my father in an expedition he organized in 1976. During my first expedition, it did not know anything about mountain, I had to do my first rescue because a client got sick. It has been a hard work to evacuate him because the motorway still did not get to Quebrada Honda.

I've organized numerous rescues in the mountains and the Amazon jungle and participated in scientific missions on behalf of American glaciologists as Lonnie Thompson. Familiar of the Alps and the Himalayas, the mountain ranges of Peru have no secrets for me.

Mountains are nice worldwide and give you good memories, but if I had to keep one expedition, I would take one in the Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy (North Face) or Yerupajá maybe.

What I prefer in this job is keeping learning new knowledge, nice life standard, travel and know the world and of course knowing people and cultures. I also like helping in the training of new guides.


| French



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