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Illampu & Ancohuma, 13-day expedition in the Cordillera Real

Join a certified mountain guide on a thrilling and demanding mountaineering program in the Bolivian Cordillera Real. Discover the Lake Titicaca surroundings and climb the remote and technical Ancohuma and Illampu on an unforgettable 13-day adventure.

Mountain RangeAndes
Duration13 days
Offer periodMay, Jun, Jul, Aug
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely fit
Type of tripPrivate

Highlights

  • Explore remote and stunning mountains in the Cordillera Real.

  • Climb the technically challenging Ancohuma and Illampu.

  • Enjoy awe-inspiring views of glacial massifs.

  • Discover the breathtaking Lake Titicaca surroundings.

Description

Would you like to join a program for expert alpinists in the Bolivian Cordillera Real? Then you can’t miss this 13-day ascent of Ancohuma and Illampu.

The Cordillera Real is located southeast from Lake Titicaca and boasts some of the most impressive mountains in the Bolivian Andes. At 6,427 m (21,086 ft), Ancohuma is the third-highest mountain in the country, followed by Illampu, at 6,368 m (20,892 ft). Both are beautiful, remote peaks with plenty of technical climbing opportunities for experienced mountaineers.

On this 13-day program, we will have the chance to tackle both of these majestic and sacred mountains. You can find a detailed itinerary below.

Please keep in mind that this is a demanding program. Therefore, an excellent fitness level and prior mountaineering experience are necessary. Of course, we will be there at all times to help and guide you.

So, are you ready to take on a challenging program in the Bolivian Andes? Then book your place now and secure your place on an unforgettable 13-day mountaineering tour in the Cordillera Real.

Or, if you prefer, you can also join us on this amazing 19-day Cordillera de Apolobamba expedition!

Details

Accommodation

tent

Meeting point

La Paz


Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: LA PAZ - LAGUNA KACHA - LAGUNA CHOJNA QUTA (4720 meters/15,500 feet asl)

Departure in a private vehicle to the laguna Kacha located in the middle of the Cordillera Real. Start of the hike to reach the laguna Chojna Quta at the foot of the Calzada pass.

Day 2: LAGUNA CHOJÑA QUTA (4720 meters/15,500 feetasl) – ACCLIMATIZATION TREK CALZADA

Acclimatization hike around the Chojna Quta lagoon. Return to Chojña Khota camp.

Day 3: LAGUNA CHOJNA QUTA (4720 m asl)- LAGUNA SAN FRANCISCO(4520 meters/14,800 feet asl)

First, we will hike in the valley before ascending two successive passes at 4980 meters/16,300 feet. From there, we will catch sight of a splendid view of the Ancohuma massif. After one more pass, we will descend to reach the San Francisco Lake (4520 meters/14,800 feet) and its hot springs.

Day 4: LAGUNA SAN FRANCISCO (4520 m asl) - LOJENA (4360 meters/14,300 feet asl)

We will hike in the direction of the Chotanlona pass at 4910 meters/16,100 feet before descending to the Millipaya valley and establishing the camp in Lojena.

Day 5: LOJENA (4360 merters/14,300 feetasl)- MINA SUSANA (4030 meters/13,200 feetasl) - CAMPO VENADO (4300 meters/14,100 feet asl)

Our journey will take us through a lot of lagoons and mines. From Lake Kota Pata (4145 meters/13,600 feet), we will descend into the large valley of Susana mine (silver and tin), where we can observe mining activity. Finally, we arrive at the foot of Ancohuma massif, where we set up camp.

Day 6: CAMPO VENADO (4300 meters/14,100 feetasl) - LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 meters/16,550 feetasl)

A technical and off the beaten path trail to reach the amazing Laguna Glaciar. One of the most beautiful lakes of the Cordillera Real.

Day 7: LAGUNA GLACIAR – HIGH CAMP (5460 meters/17,900 feet asl)

We pass the lake on its right side and continue towards the ice field. Our climb up is steep until we reach a plateau, and its technical to the edge of the glacier. (5460 meters/17,900 feet asl.). Camp at the edge of the glacier.

We offer the possibility of setting up high camp on the glacier. If this is of interest, please contact us to arrange the logistics.

Day 8: ANCOHUMA ASCENT (6427 meters/21,000 feetasl)- LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 meters/16,550 feet asl)

This is a moderately technical ascent (AD+/IV). Departure at 1 AM to start climbing. The ascent gets progressively steeper after that (50º to 55º). Descent to return directly to the Laguna Glaciar.

Day 9: LAGUNA GLACIAR (5045 meters/16,550 feet asl) – ILLAMPU BASE CAMP (4620 meters/15,200 feet asl)

A rocky and steep descent until we pass the Ancohuma and Illampu massifs. After a pass at 4985 meters/16,400 feet, we will descend to the Illampu base camp located at 4620 meters/15,200 feet.

Day 10: ILLAMPU BASE CAMP (4620 meters/15,200 feet asl)- ILLAMPU HIGH CAMP (5090 meters/16,700 feet asl)

Hiking day to reach the high camp of the Illampu at the edge of the glacier (5090 meters/16,700 feet asl.).

Day 11: ILLAMPU HIGH CAMP (5090 meters/16,700 feet asl) / REST DAY

Rest day.

Day 12: ASCENT OFILLAMPU (6380 m asl) – ILLAMPU BASE CAMP (4620 meters/15,200 feet asl)

This is a difficult and technical ascent (TD/IV).

Departure at 1 AM to the moraine between the Schulz Peak and the Illampu. Ascent is gradual to moderate to the foot of the cliff (5660 meters/18,600 feet asl.). Then, the climb becomes steeper (65º) until we reach the ridge (6000 meters/19,700 feet). The final stretch to the summit is steep (45º-70º) but worth it. We will descend through the base camp.

Day 13: ILLAMPU BASE CAMP – LACATIYA (3960 meters/13,000 feet asl) – LA PAZ (3600 meters/11,800 feet asl)

We will reach a pass at 4850 meters/15,900 feet before descending to the village of Lacatiya.
Return in a private vehicle to La Paz.


Equipment you will need to bring

Poles

Helmet

Goggles

Sunglasses

Avalanche equipment (beacon, probe and shovel)

Crampons

Ice Axe

Harness

Backpack

Water bottle


About the guide

guide profile img

Thaki Travel was founded in La Paz, Bolivia in 2011 by Anne BIALEK and Jérôme BENASSI, two adventurous friends, passionate about Bolivia and who fell in love with the kindness of the Bolivians.

During your trip in Bolivia, we will be all the time with you, we personally know all our co-workers from the receptionist of a hotel to a mule-driver of the Cordillera Real.

We like to explore and innovate. Every year, we invest in field expeditions to open new routes and build new original itineraries for our clients. We focus on building strong friendships with local communities giving us privileged contacts and access to off the beaten tracks, like the north part of the Cordillera Real where almost no one else goes.

We are very sensitive to responsible tourism. We have carried out several social actions to improve the lives of local communities and we build all our itineraries in a sustainably-driven approach.
We are very serious about altitude.

All our programs are carefully planned to comply with the acclimatization process, we have trained all our guides to Altitude sickness and we have a partnership with a French Institute about training and research in mountain medicine (Ifremmont). We are the only local travel agency that offers to their clients access to a medical platform (any client having health problems related to altitude can contact a specialized doctor 24/7 through our satellite phones)

We use high quality equipment for our treks and mountain expeditions: North Face VE25 tent (for 2 customers), .., IFMGA mountain guide for 2 customers (English speaking), Oxygen, oximeter, hyperbaric box, satellite phone.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

USD 6575 each

Group of 2

USD 4730 each

Group of 3

USD 4730 each

Group of 4

USD 4560 each

Group of 5

USD 4560 each

Group of 6

USD 4260 each

Group of 7

USD 4260 each

Group of 8

USD 4180 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation

- Transport during the trip

- Luggage transfer during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Group porters (transport of tents, cooking equipment, etc. for the group)

- Drinks

- Mountain guide's expenses (lifts, meals, accommodation, etc)

- Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Price details

Spot Connect, Satellite Phone, Oxygen Tank, Oximeter, Hyperbaric box. Last evening dinner in La Paz not included.


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