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Margherita hut 2 day ascent via normal route

Capanna Margherita

Join Paolo, an IFMGA certified guide, on this 2-day journey to the Margherita Hut, the highest mountain hut in Europe. Discover this wonderful place with mesmerizing views of the whole area!

Not specified

Alps

2 Days

Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep

Fit

Intermediate


Description

This is definitely one of my favorite programs to guide. Over a 2-day period we’ll reach the highest mountain hut in Europe: the Margherita Hut.

We will take the normal route. And in only two days we’ll reach this magnificent place. Also we’ll trek through other equally impressive spots. Some of the highlights are the Vincent Pyramid, Balmenhorn, Corno Nero, Lyskamm, Colle de Lys and Punta Gnifetti. All of them are truly iconic spots for mountaineers around the world. Thus making this route one of the most famous on Earth!

All throughout our journey we’ll get mesmerizing views of majestic ranges from the Bernen Oberland to the Maritime Alps. We’ll even get a great view of the 4,000+ peaks in the Swiss mountains, as well as the Central Alps. It is simply an incomparable spot to get the absolutely best sceneries in the whole continent!

This ascent to the Margherita hut doesn’t have any particular technical difficulties. The steepest part, of 35º is only at the last part of the journey, roughly 50 meters before the summit. So the rest of it is an amazing trek across dazzling glaciers and gentle slopes. However, we might still encounter some crevasses. And, due to the height and the amount of time we’ll be climbing, you require to be in a good physical shape. But you won’t need any special technical skills.

Moreover, my goal is that you reach the Margherita Hut, while being safe and having a great time. Thus, I’ll make sure we follow all the rules necessary to ensure your safety.

If you want to join this adventure to the highest hut in Europe, the Margherita Mountain Hut, don’t hesitate and send me a request. It will be my please to guide you across this wonderful place.

Looking for a summer adventure? I also guide this 1-week Gran Paradiso guided trek.

Price details

On top of the guide fee the trip includes: support and assistance of an Alpine Guide; all the technical equipment in common use; reservation to the Huts, rental of technical equipment if you need (harness, crampons, ice axe). The price does not include: round trip cable car (Alagna/P.ta Indren € 40); half board in the huts; guide’s lift ticket and half board in the hut will be shared by participants.


Itinerary

Day 1: Alagna - Mantova Hut

First we’ll meet at the lift station in Alagna at 14:00. Then we’ll take the lift to Punta Indren. After that, we’ll trek towards the Mantova Hut, where we’ll spend the night.

Day 2: Vincent Pyramid - Margherita Hut

This day will be full of adventure. We’ll begin by trekking through the Lys glacier. Then, we’ll pass the Vincent Pyramid,  Balmenhorn, Corno Nero and Lyskamm. After which, we’ll reach the Colle de Lys, and then the summit: Punta Gnifetti. Finally we’ll arrive to the highest hut in Europe: Margherita Mountain Hut. Later that afternoon, we’ll hike down to Punta Indren, and then take a lift back to Alagna.

 

Details

Accommodation

Mantova Hut

More info

You’ll require the following equipment: High mountain gear, mountain shoes, gloves, cap, rucksack (min 35l), wind jacket, sunglasses and sun cream, harness, crampons, ice axe or trekking poles, head-light.

Meeting point

At the lift station in Alagna.

About the guide

Strange to say, I began my climbing career after I left behind my valley and my own mountains.


When I finished high school I moved to Turin, in order to get a mechanical engineer degree.
There I started to climb on a little indoor wall at the University Sport Centre and, very soon, I found myself dreaming on the greatest alps walls. I lived adventures made of fun, fatigue and satisfaction, I shared them with many friends who became climbing partners as well.


In Turin I got my degree and I worked for some years as a mechanical engineer consultant but, more than that, I discovered a new way to live and look at the mountains: sometimes they became playgrounds with attractions for everyone, sometimes a shelter, where to find myself again.


Meanwhile, an idea started to grow inside me and became a dream; a dream I would never give up: working in an office as big as the alps!


Making the long story short, I applied for the mountain guide training, had a huge professional development and became a UIAGM mountain guide.


Now I’m working full-time as a mountain guide, sharing my passion with a lot of different people on the Alps, since I'm based in the Monte Rosa area, but also around the world.

Languages

Italian | French | English

Residence

Alagna Valsesia, Piedmont


What people are saying about Paolo Zanoli

Nicholas and Digby

5.00

January, 2022

I just wanted to thank you very much for all the help in the difficult snow conditions.  The primary aim of teaching Digby and reminding me of avalanche protocols and about skinning have been fully achieved.  You made it all fund, clear and precise. Too bad we had poor conditions, but we still found some reasonable snow and mashed an awesome couloir, so we did really well considering. So thank you very much and only sorry that we could not make full use of you for the full five days.

Steven Jeanty

5.00

August, 2021

The traveller did not leave a comment.

Frans Blommestein

5.00

July, 2021

Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!

Nienke

5.00

August, 2020

We had an amazing climbing experience which was primarily duw to the excellent and experienced guide (Marco and Paolo). High calibre individuals wgo really care about the group’s well being and pushing the tea. To their limits in a good way. The only comment we have is the primitive toilet facilities and lack of water to wash up at Margerita hutte.

Eilish McConville

5.00

July, 2019

Marco helped arrange for our group to have 2 amazing guides: Paolo and Pietro. We were a large group of 11 people with no glacier crossing experience as well as variable fitness and comfort levels. Our guides brought all the necessary equipment and made sure that safely was a priority. They helped give extra support to those in the group that needed assistance. There is a brand new route to the Monte Rosa Hutte (open since mid-June 2019). Our guides hadn't taken the new route yet and took us on the old route on the way up to the hut. After having a day to gauge the group ability, and gathering more information about the new route at the hut, we did the new route on the way back to Zermatt. Everyone in the group had a great time.

Arielle Falcone

5.00

March, 2018

Our guide was Pietro and not marco like we initially thought. Pietro was awesome, it is all about his clients and most importantly safety. We did two runs and it was an incredible experience. Guide is a must to explore the hidden spots because Monterosa ski is massive.

James Miller

5.00

February, 2018

PAOLO was an amazing guide. This trip was the “craziest” experience of our groups lives. We saw incredible terrain, had great snow, and challenged ourselves. Highly recommend

Lorne Brown

5.00

February, 2018

We had a fablupus day. We were initially booked with Marco but due to the weather we went later in the week and Marco wasn't available. We had another guide called Paolo Tombini and he was very good, very professional and good company.


 

 

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