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6-day Climb to Alpamayo

Join Beto, a UIAGM-certified guide, on this challenging but rewarding climb to the peak of Alpamayo high up in the pristine Peruvian Andes.

Mountain RangeAndes
Duration6 days
Offer periodMay, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely Fit
Type of tripPrivate

Highlights

  • Enjoy panoramic views while straddling one of Peru's 6,000ers

  • Spend two nights in our incredibly lush and scenic base camp

  • Experience climbing through all the geologic features of a glacier

Description

Join our experienced guide on this epic trek through the remote Peruvian Andes and up to the summit of Alpamayo.

Alpamayo is famous for its pyramid face and has been called the most beautiful mountain in the world. As a result, it is one of the most sought-after peaks in the region.

We begin our adventure with a three-hour drive from Huaraz through picturesque and quaint farming communities nestled in between the Cordillera Negra and the Cordillera Blanca, until we arrive at Cashapampa.

From here, we hike to the llama corral where we will camp for the night. The next day is a fairly short one with a two to three hour hike to base camp. Base camp is extremely scenic as it is surrounded in greenery, and comes with running water and outhouses.

The next two days, we will climb up through a morraine ridge and on to the glacier. The first day is the most technically challenging part of the climb as we ascend a 300-meter snow couloir, at the top of which we will set up Camp 1.

On the final day, we begin our trek to the summit, assuming we are all properly acclimatized. We start early with a one or two hour approach up a steep glacier, before crossing the bergschrund onto the southwest face.

After, we make our way through seven pitches before we arrive at the summit ridge. Then we begin a final, challenging climb up to the top. On a good year, we will be able to straddle the ridge (with one foot hanging out on each side) and make our way up to the true summit.  From here the views are truly spectacular as you are able to feel truly isolated from modern civilization.

Upon reaching the summit, we will rappel back down the route and return to Camp 1. Over the next two days we will make our way back down to Cashapampa and return to Huaraz.

So, what are you waiting for? Book now for an adrenaline-pumping adventure as you conquer the most beautiful mountain in the world!

If you like the look of this trip, the we think you will probably also like our four-day guided ascent of Tocllaraju!

More info

It is recommended that participants arrive in Huaraz at least 2 days prior to the start of the trip in order to get properly acclimatized.

Meeting point

Huaraz, Peru

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Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz to Cashapampa to Llamacorral Camp

We will drive to our trailhead in the village of Cashapampa. From here we hike  to Llama Corral and camp for the night.

Day 2: Llamacorral to Alpamayo base camp

We have a short day hiking to the Alpamayo base camp.

Day 3: Base Camp to Camp 1

We will hike to the edge of the glacier then climb to camp 1. This is the most technically challenging day of the trip.

Day 4: Camp 1 to Summit

We will climb to the top of Alpamayo and return to Camp 1.

Day 5: Camp 1 to base camp

We return to base camp.

Day 6: Return to Huaraz

We will pack up base camp and trek back to Cashapampa from which we will drive back to Huaraz.


About the guide

guide profile img

Beto Pinto was born to climb giant mountains. Raised in a tiny hamlet in the Shacsha valley outside of Huaraz, he often dreamt of climbing the high peaks which surrounded his countryside home. His first steps he was off trekking and exploring on his own - through remote valleys and high Andean lakes. By age 12, he became the youngest to summit Mt. Vallunaraju (5686m). He next summited Nevado Chopicalqui (6354) at age 14, and by age 15, he stood on top of Nevado Huascaran - the summit he always dreamt of and the highest mountain in Peru. Beto remains the youngest Peruvian to have summited Huascaran.

Beto is licensed as a UIAGM /IFMGA /AGMP Guide, and has WFR certification - this means he is recognized worldwide, and it’s the highest level of guide after 3 years of intensive study and training. He teaches mountain rescue courses to other local guides. He has organized and led the first Peruvian expeditions to the mountains of Ecuador and Bolivia, opening new routes and holding the record time to ascend Mexico’s highest volcano, Pico de Orizaba, in Bolivia Huayna Potosi. Within Peru, he has opened many new routes in various Cordilleras. He is published in The Alpinist, The American Alpine Journal, Desnivel , Barrabes , American Alpine Institute, etc


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