At 6,190m, Mount Denali is the highest mountain in North America, and therefore one of the famous Seven Summits. Climbing to the top of this daunting peak is on the list of many mountaineers and is a unique challenge. Remote, icy, enormous, this mountain is only friendly to those that show it respect.
Those that wish to reach the summit of this Alaskan giant will need proper training, some mountaineering knowledge, experience and technique, adequate equipment, and ideally, a seasoned guide to show the way and evaluate situations on the mountain. Climbing Denali involves pushing sleds with food, clothes, and equipment, as well as acclimatizing, so it also requires a lot of physical stamina. The rewards include a unique sense of accomplishment, a deep training for higher, more challenging climbs to come, a more developed sense of community with other fellow climbers, and of course, stunning views. Read on to find out everything you need to know to plan for this exhilarating feat.
1. Where is Mount Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Mountain Madness
Mount Denali is located in the United States, in Alaska, in the Denali National Park and Reserve, which has a surface area of 24,464 km2 and is 290km away from Anchorage. Denali is the third most isolated mountain in the world, and it belongs to the Alaska Range which extends 650-km into Yukon in Canada. Some other nearby peaks are Mount Foraker, Mount Silverthrone, Mount Hunter, Mount Huntington, Mount Dickey, and The Moose’s Tooth.
2. When is the best season to climb Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Mountain Madness
Denali is famous for being a very cold peak, year-round. Therefore, it is no surprise that the best season to climb it is in the summer, between May and July. Average daytime temperature during this season is 19°C, and often below zero at night and high altitudes. This is not to say that Denali can’t be climbed in other seasons, however, a different level of expertise will be necessary as well as logistics. In the winter, cross-country skiing, dog sledding, and winter camping are common practices in the area.
3. How long does it take to climb Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Mountain Madness
Climbing Denali takes approximately two weeks. Keep in mind that going to and from the mountain in itself may take a few days, especially if there are bad weather conditions, furthermore, the climb itself may be stalled due to climate. Therefore, guided programs are usually 3 weeks long, and sometimes a bit more, to account for acclimatization, and to include extra days in case of delays.
Join a 22-day program to the top of Mount Denali!
4. What are the main climbing routes to climb Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Mountain Madness
There are four main routes to the summit of Denali:
West Buttress
This is the most common route. The ascent usually starts off from Kahiltna Glacier, where you can be dropped off by plane, and where there is a base camp manager living year-round. This is the most straightforward route to the summit with the least avalanche risk and crevices.
Climb the West Buttress Route in 25-days on this guided program to the top of Denali!
Muldrow Glacier
Originally the standard way to the top of Denali, this route starts off from the north in the direction of Muldrow Glacier and finally joins the West Buttress Route at the Denali Pass before the final stretch to the summit. Although it is technically just as difficult as the West Buttress, logistics are more difficult to organize because there are no airplane landings on the north side.
West Rib
Although this route has the same starting point as the West Buttress, it takes a more challenging path to the summit that involves going through the “Valley of Death”, and then crossing two snow domes. At an altitude of 4800m, it is possible to move into the traditional West Buttress route or otherwise continue on the West Rib which requires some rock climbing and bouldering before choosing to go up one of two snow couloirs that lead to the final stretch.
Cassin Ridge
The newest of the four routes is also the most difficult. Some of the challenges it poses include 2400m of sustained climbing, going by the “Valley of Death”, crossing the Knife Edge Ridge of blue ice, rock climbing, and ice climbing. It is accessed from the south side and is only advisable for highly skilled professional climbers.
5. How difficult is it to climb Denali? What kind of training do I need to do before climbing?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Miyar Adventures
Climbing Denali is extremely demanding due to high altitude, severe weather, and the need to haul heavy gear. You'll need strong physical fitness, rope and glacier travel skills, avalanche awareness, and experience with ice axe, crampons, and winter camping.
Guided expeditions offer crucial safety advantages—including expert guides, emergency response plans, group gear, and pre-trip training support. They provide advanced protocols and on-mountain instruction that reduce risk and improve your chances of a safe, successful climb.
Train and prepare for Denali on this Cascades 9-day Denali Prep Course in Washington!
6. What’s the weather like in Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Mountain Madness
Mount Denali is famous for being very cold. The summer is short and spans from late May to mid-July, with average daytime temperatures of 18 °C. The peak sees storms and snowfalls as early as August, and in the winter, temperatures can drop to -10 to -20°C. Additionally, the cold season can run into late March and even early April, which means the mountain sees a very short spring.
7. How much does it cost to climb Denali?
Denali - Photo courtesy of Carlos Vasquez Barriga
Climbing Denali requires more than just physical preparation—you must also complete the official permitting process with the National Park Service (NPS). All climbers attempting Denali or Mount Foraker are required to obtain a Denali Climbing Permit, which must be secured at least 60 days in advance of your intended start date. This helps the NPS manage the number of climbers and ensure safety standards are met.
In addition to the climbing permit, all visitors to Denali National Park must pay a park entrance fee (currently USD 15 per person, valid for 7 days). Some guided programs include these fees in the trip cost, but it’s important to confirm this in advance with your expedition provider.
Permit fees are as follows:
- USD 350 for climbers aged 25 and over
- USD 250 for climbers under 24
Keep printed copies of your permit, entrance fee receipt, and payment confirmations with you throughout the trip, as rangers may ask to see documentation at various checkpoints, especially upon arrival at base camp or during briefings at the Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station. It's also wise to carry digital backups on your phone or cloud storage, in case printed versions are damaged during the expedition.
A guided Denali expedition generally costs between USD 8,000 and USD 10,000, depending on the length of the trip and the outfitter. While this fee covers most essentials for the mountain, additional costs can add up. Here’s a detailed breakdown to help you plan your budget:
Typically Included in the Expedition Fee
- Professional guiding services
- Transportation to and from Talkeetna to base camp (via ski plane)
- Group climbing equipment (ropes, sleds, stoves, tents, fuel)
- Group medical kits and safety equipment
- Pre-expedition support (gear checks, orientation, logistics assistance)
Not Included – Additional Expenses to Budget For
- Meals in town before and after the expedition
- Personal gear (boots, sleeping bag, clothing, crampons, backpack, etc.)
- Denali Climbing Permit (USD 250–350 depending on age)
- Gratuities for guides
8. Do I need rescue insurance for climbing Denali?
Climbing Denali is an intense challenge that comes with risks such as extreme weather, altitude-related issues, and potential accidents on the rugged terrain. Having rescue and evacuation insurance is crucial for anyone attempting this peak. Explore-Share partners with Global Rescue to offer comprehensive insurance options specifically designed for mountaineers, covering emergencies like rescue, evacuation, and medical support. Before you embark on your Denali expedition, ensure you're fully covered by learning more about their insurance options here.
This is a unique experience that you will never forget. Climbing Denali is a challenge that will give you a great sense of accomplishment as well as training you for further climbs. Additionally, you will get to experience a remote and extreme location, with breathtaking landscapes and wildlife. Book your place with one of the guides at Explore-Share.com and start planning a thrilling climb to the top of Denali!
9. Weather-Related Flight Delays and Contingency Planning
Expedition guides and support teams monitor weather forecasts closely and adjust plans accordingly. Supply management is a key part of expedition logistics: gear and food are cached at strategic points on the mountain, and teams carry redundant supplies to remain self-sufficient during extended waits. Being mentally prepared for these delays is as important as physical readiness—flexibility, patience, and teamwork are essential parts of the Denali experience.
10. Leave No Trace on Denali
Climbing Denali is not only a test of endurance—it's a commitment to preserving one of the most pristine alpine environments on Earth. All climbers are expected to follow Leave No Trace principles and comply with Denali National Park regulations.
Key practices include:
- Pack Out All Waste: Human waste must be carried in Clean Mountain Cans (CMCs) provided by the park—no exceptions.
- Minimize Camp Impact: Use established campsites, avoid digging unnecessary features, and leave snow and terrain undisturbed.
- Respect Wildlife: Store food properly, never feed animals, and maintain a safe distance.
11. Why Professional Guides Matter on Denali
Climbing Denali is a demanding high-altitude expedition that requires more than physical fitness—it demands technical expertise, risk management, and deep knowledge of the mountain.
Professional guides bring essential experience, often with dozens of Denali ascents, and are certified in alpine skills, glacier travel, and wilderness medicine. Their understanding of weather patterns, crevasse risks, and acclimatization strategies greatly increases safety and summit success.
They also manage critical logistics—from camp setup to summit pacing—allowing climbers to focus on performance. In Denali’s remote and unpredictable environment, having expert guidance is a key factor in a safe and successful expedition.
