Enrico, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, takes you to one of the most classic and challenging routes in the Alps: the Central Freney Pillar in Mont Blanc.
Private
Alps
3 Days
Jun - Sep
High
Advanced
Shining in the sun of the South Face of Mont Blanc, the Freney Pillar is one of the ‘all life’ dreams for an alpinist.
This 800 m long granite pillar overlooking the Italian mountain town of Courmayeur and the Aosta Valley, is one of the most desired climbs in the Alps.
The first ascent of this peak was a major achievement in mountain history and led to a big fight. Who has never heard of Bonatti’s unfortunate adventure up there in 1961?
Those who want to attempt this route need a good level of rock climbing and a fair base of classical mixed climbing experience. To make sure you are properly trained, I ask you to take a preparation trip with me prior this big climb. Check out this 6-day training course where you’ll climb three different routes in the Mont Blanc massif where we will focus on rope work and crack climbing technique. On such a long and complex climb it is so important that we move as an efficient team.
If you are already prepared for this huge climbing challenge, then send me a request! I’ll be glad to be your guide in this classic major climb in the Alps.
If your goal is to climb one of the north faces of the Alps’ trilogy (Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses), you may check this 4-day training program.
- Guiding fee
The price does NOT include lodging, meals, and/or transportation for both clients and the guide. We can provide lodging at B&B Maison de la montagne (http://www.maisondelamontagne.net/) when based down the valley.
Meeting very early in Courmayeur, we will move up to Eccles hut at3800m.
From the bivy, we will go pas the Eccles col and down on the Freney glacier to reach the base of the actual pillar. We will climb, most likely up to the base of the Chandelle.
The crux of the climb, the Chandelle itself. Through a mixed ridge we reach the top of Mont Blanc and go down the valley.
More info
According to the new directives of the Aosta Valley Regional College, insurance for recovery in the event of an accident is in charge of the customer and can be purchased by registering with the ITALIAN ALPINE CLUB (or corresponding local alpine club) or on the UVGAM website (https://pos.larcasrl.it/default.aspx?IDCON=926 ).
Meeting point
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
4.9
(22)
Mountain Guide
My biggest satisfaction is to explore new places, and share it with a rope-mate. And to do it as a professional is the realization of a dream. At the age of 15, I knew I wanted to become a mountain guide, I wanted to live in the mountains, teach and share my new passion. In 2006 I realized my dream and I became a professional mountain guide. I like sharing my knowledge and experience with my clients, taking a journey that transforms slowly the guide-client relationship in climbing partner and often in friendship. I am not and never will be a lone climber but "a company" 'explorer. My specialty lies certainly in climbing on ice and mixed in the high mountains. With my clients I climbed the most difficult faces in the Alps, explored mountain ranges, traveled between America, Asia, Africa, and Europe.
Languages
Italian | French | English
Certificates
IFMGA
John
5
This was intended to be 10 days of skill building with the ultimate goal of climbing one of the 6 great north faces of the Alps. I'd climbed some mountains graded PD/AD- before and did a few mountaineering courses but didn't have much experience climbing ice, mixed or steep snow. This course blew my expectations out of the water. Enrico is the best guide I've ever had, from a combination of technical skill, patience, knowledge of all aspects and good nature. We climbed something every single day (!). I really progressed my ice climbing which was the main goal for me and many times during the course I came away feeling that I'd surprised myself by getting to the top. Enrico did a great job judging my level and found options every day to challenge but not overwhelm me. I came to trust his judgement and really appreciate the time we got to spend climbing some great routes. 10/10.
David
5
Great trip, highly customized and exceeding our expectations. Highly recommendable
5
Enrico is a fantastic person and a very good guide, very professional. We climbed Auguille d'Entreves.
5
Enrico is a mountaineering expert. I did many tours, summits and expeditions with him over the past 15 years Not only does he know the environment, but he is also technically very proficient, which is very comforting when the going gets tougher. He is a very safe guide, does not take chances as he wants both of us to get back home safely! And he likes to share and explain every decision he makes. Every outing with Enrico is a 5 star experience.
5
I went Ice Climbing in Cogne with Enrico. He is very competent, friendly and enthusiastic.
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