Jun, Jul, Aug
We begin the adventure with a fun training day rock climbing around Chamonix. We will practice rock climbing, climbing with boots, and rope skills.
We meet in Aiguille du Midi and take the cable car up the mountain. We cross the glacier by completing the Arete des Cosmiques climb, one of the classic routes around Chamonix. This will further your comfort with the mountaineering skills and techniques that will help you successfully climb the Matterhorn.
For our final training climb, we will traverse either Aiguilles d’Entreves or Aiguilles Marbrées, both accessible from the Italian side of the Alps. We will choose the climb based on which has the best conditions.
We begin our journey to the Matterhorn. We take the train to Zermatt. From there, the cable car at Schwarzsee takes us up the mountain. After climbing for 2-3 hours, we arrive at Hornli Hut, where we have a restful evening before our summit push.
We leave the hut around 4 AM. We must move quickly to ensure a safe summit. We have about 5.5 hours maximum to reach the summit before conditions deteriorate.
Once we celebrate our achievement, we begin the tricky descent. We aim to be in Schwarzsee cable car station by 4pm. From there, we head back to Chamonix from Zermatt.
We will be based in Chamonix during the training climbs (you can arrange your own accommodations). During our ascent of the Matterhorn, we will stay at Hornli Hut.
Guide ratio for Matterhorn summit is 1:1. However, 2 people could choose to share costs for days 1-3. If this is the case: - summiting person pays: 2040 - companion pays: 600. If both people want to summit, they can share days 1-4 and each pays 2060 EUR each and on the summit day there are 2 guides to keep the 1:1 ratio. Huts, transport, lifts (except Cham valley) and meals not included in the price. These are to be paid directly by clients both for themselves as well as for the guide/guides.
I'm an IFMGA mountain guide from Romania and a member of the Austrian Mountain Guides Association (VOBS) and the East European Mountain Guides Association(EEMGA).
My passions are alpinism, rock and ice climbing and ski touring. Over the last decade and a half I have climbed and skied all corners of the World, spent numerous seasons guiding in the Himalayas, New Zealand, Alps and the Carpathians Mountains.
My primary concern as your guide is your safety. With that comes a great deal of fun, learning and engaging in experiences that will be memorable for a lifetime. I hope to have the opportunity to climb with you and help you achieve climbs, summits and experiences not yet imagined!
I have a very strict policy on guide-to-guest ratios for all types of terrain and these are clearly explained prior to engagement. For multi pitch climbs it is usually 1:1 and it never exceeds 1:2. For single pitch venues (especially on instructional outings) it never exceeds 1:4. Higher ratios are possible with the hiring of additional guides and only following prior arrangements. For treks and ski tours the ratios are more generous but depending on the terrain and/or the group’s experience.
I am comfortable in using for guiding and teaching purposes the following languages: English and Romanian.
Contact me for availability, rates or to customize a program to help you achieve your climbing goals.
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