Direct climb to Mount Triglav from Soča valley

One of the fastest and steepest routes to Mount Triglav from Soča valley. Follow Blaz, an IFMGA mountain guide, on a 2-day climbing trip for those in excellent physical conditions.

Julian Alps

2 Days

Mar - Oct

High

Intermediate

Description

Lying at the heart of the Julian Alps, Mount Triglav (2864 m) is the highest peak in Slovenia and the most climbed peak in the country.

I propose to climb Triglav leaving from the Soča valley. We'll take a direct route which is one of the fastest and steepest ways to approach the summit of this iconic mountain.

The Soča valley is a beautiful region of northwestern Slovenia, that stretches from the town of Nova Gorica (in the border with Italy) to Triglav National Park.

Our 2-day climbing trip will begin and end at the village of Trenta na Logu. Then, we'll hike through Zadnjica valley, on an scenic and secluded scramble approach.

This route involves climbing short via ferrata sections on rope to overcome the most exposed parts, and exposed ledges that take you to the gully descending from the upper slopes just beneath the Dolič saddle. In fact, this is the lowest altitude that you rope-in of any access to Mt. Triglav.

After 5-7 hours, we'll arrive to Dom na Doliču, the mountain hut where we'll spend the night.

The following day we'll ascend a desert moonscape at 2500 m, before we go to the top.

Then, we can choose to descend the same way or forward to Planika hut or down to Kredarica. That way, we can make the whole traverse of Mt. Triglav ridge and hence a large circle.

In addition, there's a via ferrata that will take us to the summit of Mount Triglav and back.

Besides, we can visit the historic remains of the highest military post during World War I.

I recommend to do this trip in 2 days, so you can enjoy the hike and the surrounding landscapes. Nevertheless, it's possible to do it in just 1 day, but you have to be a super fit person (it will take between 12-16 hours).

You'll find a complete itinerary below this description.

Would you like to join me on this exciting climbing trip to the top of Slovenia? Please, contact me and we'll choose the best option for you.

In case you prefer a less demanding climb to Triglav, you can take a look at this 2-day climbing trip also from Soča valley.

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Transport during the trip

Price details

-Price for families: 500€. -Half-board at mountain huts is around 35€ per person.-Here are the prices for 1-day trip: 1 person: 300 € / Group of 2: 200€ per person

Itinerary

Day 1: Soča Valley (via a Direct route) - Dom na Doliču

5-7 hours of steep scrambling and 1400 meters of height difference.

Day 2: Dom na Doliču - Summit! - Soča valley

3-5 hours from the hut (Dom na Doliču) to the top and back, plus 3 hours down to the valley.
The whole traverse adds additional 4 h, in total 12 h of exposed high alpine endurance.

About the guide

Blaz

4.90

(27)

Mountain Guide

I’m an IFMGA Mountain Guide and an Alpine Instructor from Slovenia.

At the back of the house where I grew up, past a slope, a higher hill and some rocks, you could see Mount Triglav rising towards the blue sky.

Mountains were a part of my backyard and I started practicing alpinism when I was a schoolboy. At that time, I enrolled for a sport climbing school and I became an alpine instructor in 1995.

Between 1995 and 1997, I’ve been a member of the Sub-commission on Extreme Alpinism for the Slovene Alpine Society. Some years later, I was Chief of the Commission for Alpinism.

As a member of the alpine team, I went on several expeditions in North and South America, the Himalaya, the Tian Shan and the Kookshall-Too mountain range.

I climbed more than 700 routes in Slovenia, Italy, Switzerland and France. Long winter climbs and ridges are always among my favorites.

I made some first winter ascents: on two routes on the north wall of Ribezni, Možnica (700m, V+, 5, UIAA VI/A1) and in Jof di Montasio / Poliški Špik, Grapa (700m, UIAA 4, ascent and complete ridge traverse). Other memorable climbs were a winter traverse of 4000 m peaks in Mont Blanc (4807 m) and the Slovenian Peuterey ridge traverse, among many others.

After 6 years of training, I obtained my IFMGA certification in 2010.

I organize many guided ski touring, rock climbing and ice climbing trips in Slovenia, especially in the surroundings of Mt. Triglav and the whole Soča valley.

Languages

Slovenian | Italian | German | English

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What people are saying about this trip

Morgan

5.00

Blaz was an absolutely amazing guide. I cannot overstate how memorable he made the trip and how kind he was to me and my friends. Whether he was soothing our nerves during a particularly steep part of the climb or telling us vibrant stories about Slovenian history, Blaz exceeded all of our expectations tenfold. I highly recommend Blaz’s trip up Triglav and I hope to return sometime soon and do another adventure with him !