Technical Summits in Valais, Matterhorn Preparation Program
Your IFMGA-certified guide Tal will lead you on a challenging and rewarding week of technical summits in the world-renowned and delightful Valais region. An ideal preparation for Matterhorn.
Group
Alps
5 Days
Jun - Sep
High
Intermediate
Highlights
- Climb technical alpine routes up to AD or AD+ difficulty in the Walliser Alps.
- Train on snow, ice, glacier, and mixed terrain with an IFMGA/UIAGM-qualified guide or aspirant.
- Use the week as targeted preparation for a possible Matterhorn ascent via the Hörnli Ridge.
Description
This technical summits week in the Walliser Alps is designed for experienced and very fit mountaineers who want to prepare for a possible Matterhorn ascent. Based in the Saas Valley region, the program focuses on efficient movement across mixed alpine terrain, including snow, ice, glacier travel, steep ice sections, and moderate rock climbing.
The exact plan is intentionally kept flexible and will be adapted shortly before the trip according to weather, mountain conditions, and the participants’ level. During the week, the group may attempt summits and routes up to AD or AD+ difficulty, with climbs potentially involving ice up to 50 degrees and rock sections up to UIAA III or IV.
The program includes 4 full guiding days with an IFMGA/UIAGM-qualified guide or aspirant, in a maximum 2:1 guiding ratio. Possible objectives in the area include routes on Allalinhorn, Weissmies, Alphubel, Dom, Breithorn, Pollux, Lagginhorn, and other technical summits, depending on conditions and guide assessment. The following routes require a 1:1 ratio: Portjen ridge traverse, Lagginhorn S ridge, Weissmies N ridge, Fletschhorn-Lagginhorn, Alphubel W ridge (Rotgrat).
After this preparation week, a Matterhorn ascent may be possible, but it is not guaranteed. It depends on weather, current conditions, the participant’s performance during the week, hut availability, and guide availability. Guests who want to increase their chances of securing a Hörnli Hut booking should contact the guide at least 30 days before the start of the activity.
Send a request to book this program if you are an experienced mountaineer looking for a demanding, high-quality preparation week for technical alpine summits in Wallis and a possible Matterhorn continuation.
Improve your skills and scale some of the most impressive mountains in Europe – book now so you don’t miss out!
For those who want to learn more, I offer an “Alpine Semester” 12-day mountaineering course in the Austrian Alps, here!
I also provide a 1-week intensive mountaineering course in Chamonix, here!
Price includes
- Guiding fee
- Mountain guide expenses
- Rope
- Harness
- Helmet
- Belay and rappel devices
- Quickdraws
- Crampons
- Ice axe
Price details
- The price includes:
- 4 days in the mountains*.
- Planning and guiding by an IFMGA/UIAGM qualified guide/Aspirant.
- Guides expenses
- Climbing gear (ice exes, ropes, harnesses, helmets etc.)
- ** Guiding in a in a max/ minimum 1:2 ratio
- * For additional cost the activity can be extended and include more days.
- ** The activity can be booked in a 1:1 ratio, to increase the efficiency or to match specific requirements.
- Price does not include:
- A Matterhorn ascent is not included in the price please see below.
- Transport during the trip
- Flights and insurances.
- Cable cars (at least twice through the week, up to 90 € per day)
- Mountaineering boots (rental)
- Overnights in a mountain hut (Half board estimation 80 € a night)
- Hotel in the valley ca. 120 € for 1 person in a double room with half board
- A Matterhorn ascent
- For a Matterhorn activity in 2 days* as a continuation to a previously booked activity in Wallis, an additional sum will be charged per person only for planning and guiding. Starting from 1,800 € per person .
- The client will be asked to cover all the additional costs (transportation/ parking, hut fees, half board, drinking water, cable cars etc.) for more clarifications please contact us via email at info@mountainspro.com
- To decrease pressure, an extra day/reserve day can be booked the meaning of which that we will be able to prolong the ascent's dead line from 4.5 hours to reach the summit, to 5.5 hours, while spending another night in the hut/start later and avoid the stressful race on the summit day or have an extra day for a second attempt. An additional day will mean an additional 650 €
Meeting point
Itinerary
Day 1: Meeting in Saas Grund
Meet at 17:00 in Saas Grund for a briefing and gear check.
Day 2: Acclimatization and movement on mixed terrain
Start with a shorter route from the valley, such as Jägihorn, Drihorlini, or Hohlaubgrat, depending on conditions. The aim is to acclimatize and begin moving together on combined alpine terrain. The night may be spent either in the valley or in a mountain hut.
Day 3 to 5: Technical summit ascents
These days are dedicated to climbing high and technical summits for training and acclimatization. The final objectives will be selected according to weather, mountain conditions, safety, and participant ability.
Possible objectives may include: Allalinhorn Hohlaub Arete, Weissmies Red Arete, Alphubel, Dom, Breithorn Half Traverse, Pollux, Portjen Ridge Traverse, Lagginhorn South Ridge, Weissmies North Ridge, Fletschhorn to Lagginhorn, and Alphubel West Ridge.
Some of these routes require a 1:1 guiding ratio.
Day 7 to 8: Matterhorn ascent (optional)
A Matterhorn ascent may be possible after the preparation week, but it is not included in the base program and is not guaranteed.
For a Matterhorn continuation, the proposed schedule is:
Day 7: Approach to the Hörnli Hut
Ascend to the Hörnli Hut at 3,260 meters.
Day 8: Matterhorn ascent via the Hörnli Ridge
Climb the Matterhorn, 4,477 meters, via the Hörnli Ridge and descend back to the valley.
Details
More info
Since we try to maximize the efficiency and may head straight to a very high summit- we recommend the participants to acclimatize on their own before starting the week with us and spend a day and a night above 2500m.
The mentioned timetable is exemplary and may vary due to conditions, ability of the participants, safety & weather limitations.
A Matterhorn ascent should be booked at least 30 days before the activity starts.
FAQs
What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?
A very physically demanding activity- a very good level of physical fitness is required we will be climbing some days more than 1,000 meters with 10 kg (about 20 Lbs) rucksacks.
The participants are required to be absolutely sure-footed and have extensive experience in snow, rock, and ice, be it through past guided activities or courses.
For participants that don't fall under the above-mentioned requirements, we recommend taking part in our Alpine Semester or Swiss Classics weeks, for training and a reality check.
Since we try to maximize the efficiency and may head straight to a very high summit- we recommend the participants to acclimatize on their own before starting the week with us and spend a day and a night above 2500 m. Optional huts are the Weissmies hut at 2,726 m (Recommended in combination with another higher hut on the second night), the Hohsaas restaurant at 3,100 m, the Britannia hut at 3,030 m, The Hörnli hut at 3,260 m. All mentioned huts can be reached alone without technical difficulties.
How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?
Technical summit/Matterhorn does not fit under the definition of "my first summit above 4,000 meters." You either need to be a graduate of a long and thorough alpine training/have done some benchmark ascents in the Alps such as other 4,000 m summits at a PD+ level (Mont Blanc, Dom, Breithorn traverse, or Nadelhorn, for example).
Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?
No, all of your needed technical gear is provided by us.
Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?
No porters in the Alps, we carry our hit ourselves
What happens in the event of bad weather?
An alternative will be offered as early as we possibly can.
Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?
Non.
What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?
The standard ratio is maximum 2:1. Some routes require a 1:1 ratio.
What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?
Summer from mid June, and mid September
Can I join a group?
Yes, though a "group" is very small (2 people).
Is the Matterhorn ascent included in this program?
No. The Matterhorn ascent is not included in the base program. It may be possible afterward as a separate continuation, depending on weather, conditions, hut availability, guide availability, and the participant’s performance.
Are huts and accommodation included?
No. Accommodation is not included. Hut nights and valley nights are paid separately.
What are some recommended accommodations near our adventure location?
About the guide
Tal
4.8
(17)
Mountain Guide
I am in the mountains all year-round, either guiding a trip or exploring on my own. Mountain guiding is not only my profession and passion but also my inner calling. I am a qualified IFMGA mountain and ski guide.
In 2012, I established my mountaineering school "Mountains" with the motto: Quality guiding on snow, rock and ice. You can count on a low client to guide ratio, reliable gear and high quality programs led by our talented team of guides. We are not adrenaline junkies - we put safety first and strive to meet and exceed all of our clients' needs.
We take great pride in having more than 30% returning clients and would be thrilled to welcome you to our "Mountains" family during your next rock, snow or ice adventure!
Languages
| German | English | Arabic
Certificates
VDBS | IFMGA
What people are saying about Tal
Yariv
Very professional and nice guide. Took us to wonderful ice climbing.
Adrien
David est un super guide, il parle anglais mais parle bien français également, il est très expérimenté, peut-être que le rythme était un peu trop soutenu et pas suffisamment de pause pour des personnes débutante mais avec du recul je ne regrette rien, c'est une personne en or.
Li
Lukas is excellent 👌
Md
He was very rude and was constantly yelling at me on our descent. The trip could have been more enjoyable if he was supportive.
Ben
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