Join a local certified mountain guide from Huaraz, on this 4-day ascent to the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. It's one of the three jewels of the Ishinca Valley, in the Cordillera Blanca!
May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
As you may known, the Quebrada Ishinca hosts three of the most demanding Peruvian peaks: the Urus (5495 m), the Ishinca (5530 m) and our star of the day, the Tocllaraju. It is a very famous three-in-one mountaineering tour I also offer. You can check out this option here.
But today I want to propose a different plan. During this 4-day ascent I am leading, I would like to help you conquer the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. We'll have two alternative routes: the northwest ridge or the west face.
The Tocllaraju west face offers a more direct ascension but it is a very difficult route since it has slopes of 60° – 75° degrees of inclination. On the other hand, the northwest ridge is a bit longer but it is less demanding. It is the "normal route".
This amazing adventure will take you through the famous Ishinca Valley. It is a great destination for those who want to climb a 5000 or 6000 meter peak. However, the highlight of this place is its scenic beauty. Even if you do not reach the top, you will enjoy an unparalleled landscape.
As for the itinerary, a transfer will take us from Huaraz to Pashpa. From there, we must walk to the Ishinca Base Camp. On the next day, we will arrive at the Moraine Camp (4950 m), just below the west face of the Tocllaraju.
So, we will climb a line on the south end to join the ridge, which is 100 meters from the summit. The ascent will take us around 7 hours in total. Finally, we will descent abseiling the snowy summit by the northwest ridge.
The best season to go on this adventure is from May to September. All participants must have prior mountaineering experience as well as an excellent fitness level.
The maximum of guests I can lead is 10 people. If you are on your own, you can join an open group I already have. On the contrary, I will open a new group for you and your friends.
So, don't wait any longer and make your reservation. I will be here, waiting for your contact. Let's plan this amazing climbing trip together!
- Accommodation included
- Guiding fee
- Transport during the trip
- Group porters
- Personal porters
- Mules and horses
- Clean drinkable water
- Mountain guide expenses
- Camping equipment tents
- Camping equipment cooking utensils
• International flights to Lima / Peru round trip
• Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure
• Exit tax at the airport in Lima
• Travel accident and health insurance
• Luggage insurance and trip cancellation
• Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz
• Personal expenses
• Acclimatization Tour
• Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park
• Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station
• Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru
• Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima
• Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz
• Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel
• Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)
• Tips four our local team
We’ll leave Huaraz across the Callejón de Huaylas towards the village of Paltay. We’ll continue to Pashpa (3400 m), up to the small Cochapampa Lake. Here we’ll meet our local team of donkey drivers. Then, we will start an easy climb through the Ishinca Valley to our campsite, near Refugio Don Bosco. Overnight camp (-/L/D).
After lunch, we will start the ascent through a steep moraine in direction to the edge of the glacier. From this point you can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m) very very close. After 4-5 hiking hours we’ll set up our high camp on the moraine (B/L/D).
Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we’ll start to ascend over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because of the changes suffered by the glacier year after year, the technical ice climbing is also different each new season. We might find small 60-degree walls of ice. The final section before the summit is secured with fixed ropes. Once at the top, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca.
Finally, we will descend to the base camp. A total activity of about 12 hours. We’ll spend the last nigh in tents (B/L/D).
After breakfast we’ll start an easy return to Pashpa. Today the donkeys will carry our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with quenual trees, native flora of the high Andes. In Pashpa our transport will be waiting. We’ll probably arrive Huaraz early and have lunch there. Overnight stay in a hotel of the city (B/L/-).
Not included in the price:
What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?
How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?
Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?
Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?
How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?
What happens in the event of bad weather?
Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?
What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?
What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?
Can I join a group?
Peru Expeditions is a Guide Agency and Tour Operator based in Huaraz, Peru.
It's a family-owned travel agency, which was founded more than 35 years ago, and is now managed by IFMGA-guide Juventino and his son, Eric.
We organize trekkings and mountain expeditions in Cordillera Blanca, and all around Peru.
AGMP | IFMGA
The agency gave me a guide Darwin, not Juventino. Climb was good, easy just walking. There is one dangerous section near the moraine area with very loose gravel. So make sure you don't slip there or you are dead. I stayed in refugio at the base camp which was much more comfy than camping. Darwin was good but give clients some breaks once in a while, not rush too much. It's a high altitude climbing after all.
The hike was canceled. We didn’t go anywhere. Didn’t even get into the country.
From the very first emails communication which was dealt with efficiently and provide all the required information and other options for myself to consider. When I arrived the communication was excellent and very well organised. When I return later this year I will without doubt be using Eric and the team. When we arrive at the start point to getting back the local guide was excellent. I have nothing but praise for the set up.
William was such a knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient guide! He brought books and support materials to further explain the history of the sites we were seeing, was always ready with an answer to any questions, and had great suggestions of where to take photos. He chose a truly remarkable cook for our trek, who kept us well fed with a huge variety of foods (and an ample supply of it!) and filled with hot beverages at all hours of the day and night. He allowed us to set the pace each day, and was cheerful and helpful and relaxed throughout-he absolutely enhanced a wonderful experience! Many thanks to you, William!
Eric from Peru Expeditions is a fabulous, safe, and conscientious Tour Operator. He chose an incredible guide for us (Darwin) who was highly esteemed by every guide we met at every point along the journey-the respect of one’s peers speaks for itself! We were very well supported, always had perfect timing with seeing sunrises, beating “the crowd” to our destinations, and had ample food. The Peruvian mountains are stunningly beautiful- I’m ready to go back again already! Book with Eric - he’s going to take good care of you.
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