Nevado Tocllaraju 4-day ascent by the normal route

Join Juvenitino, a IFMGA mountain guide from Huaraz, on this 4-day ascent to the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. It's one of the three jewels of the Ishinca Valley, in the Cordillera Blanca!




Trip Duration

4 days

Mountain Range

Cordillera Blanca

People per Guide

10 people

Trip Level


Offer Period

May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep

Type of Trip

Not specified



    Welcome to one of the most challenging adventures in the Quebrada Ishinca: the ascent to the Nevado Tocllaraju (6034 m).

    As you may known, the Quebrada Ishinca hosts three of the most demanding Peruvian peaks: the Urus (5495 m), the Ishinca (5530 m) and our star of the day, the Tocllaraju. It is a very famous three-in-one mountaineering tour I also offer. You can check out this option here.

    But today I want to propose a different plan. During this 4-day ascent I am leading, I would like to help you conquer the summit of the Nevado Tocllaraju. We’ll have two alternative routes: the northwest ridge or the west face.

    The Tocllaraju west face offers a more direct ascension but it is a very difficult route since it has slopes of 60° – 75° degrees of inclination. On the other hand, the northwest ridge is a bit longer but it is less demanding. It is the “normal route”.

    This amazing adventure will take you through the famous Ishinca Valley. It is a great destination for those who want to climb a 5000 or 6000 meter peak. However, the highlight of this place is its scenic beauty. Even if you do not reach the top, you will enjoy an unparalleled landscape.

    As for the itinerary, a transfer will take us from Huaraz to Pashpa. From there, we must walk to the Ishinca Base Camp. On the next day, we will arrive at the Moraine Camp (4950 m), just below the west face of the Tocllaraju.

    So, we will climb a line on the south end to join the ridge, which is 100 meters from the summit. The ascent will take us around 7 hours in total. Finally, we will descent abseiling the snowy summit by the northwest ridge.

    The best season to go on this adventure is from May to September. All participants must have prior mountaineering experience as well as an excellent fitness level.

    The maximum of guests I can lead is 10 people. If you are on your own, you can join an open group I already have. On the contrary, I will open a new group for you and your friends.

    So, don’t wait any longer and make your reservation. I will be here, waiting for your contact. Let’s plan this amazing climbing trip together!

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    Price per person

    Group of 1
    1500 USD

    Group of 2
    850 USD

    Group of 3
    850 USD

    Group of 4
    800 USD

    Group of 5
    800 USD

    Group of 6
    750 USD

    Group of 7
    750 USD

    Group of 8
    650 USD


    Price includes

    • Guiding fee
    • Transport during the trip
    • Group porters (transport of tents, cooking equipment, etc. for the group)
    • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner


    • Day 1Huaraz - Transfer to Pashpa (3400 m) - Trekking to Ishinca Base Camp (4250 m)

      We’ll leave Huaraz across the Callejón de Huaylas towards the village of Paltay. We’ll continue to Pashpa (3400 m), up to the small Cochapampa Lake. Here we’ll meet our local team of donkey drivers. Then, we will start an easy climb through the Ishinca Valley to our campsite, near Refugio Don Bosco. Overnight camp (-/L/D).

    • Day 2Ishinca Base Camp - Tocllaraju Moraine Camp (4950 m)

      After lunch, we will start the ascent through a steep moraine in direction to the edge of the glacier. From this point you can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m) very very close. After 4-5 hiking hours we’ll set up our high camp on the moraine (B/L/D).

    • Day 3Moraine Camp - Tocllaraju Peak (6034 m) - Ishinca Base Camp

      Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we’ll start to ascend over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because of the changes suffered by the glacier year after year, the technical ice climbing is also different each new season. We might find small 60-degree walls of ice. The final section before the summit is secured with fixed ropes. Once at the top, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca.

      Finally, we will descend to the base camp. A total activity of about 12 hours. We’ll spend the last nigh in tents (B/L/D).

    • Day 4Ishinca Base Camp - Trekking to Cochapampa Lake (3400 m) - Transfer to Huaraz

      After breakfast we’ll start an easy return to Pashpa. Today the donkeys will carry our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with quenual trees, native flora of the high Andes. In Pashpa our transport will be waiting. We’ll probably arrive Huaraz early and have lunch there. Overnight stay in a hotel of the city (B/L/-).


    Other details

    Meeting point


    More info

    Not included in the price:

    - International flights to Lima / Peru round trip

    - Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure

    - Exit tax at the airport in Lima

    - Travel accident and health insurance

    - Luggage insurance and trip cancellation

    - Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz

    - Personal expenses

    - Acclimatization Tour

    - Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park

    - Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station

    - Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru

    - Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima

    - Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz

    - Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel

    - Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)

    - Tips


    About the Guide


    IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide from Peru.

    He was born in 1960 in Huaraz / Peru. With his 15th Age he learned the world of trekking and mountaineering know by he accompanied his father on trips with his clients.

    To this day he is still working as a mountain guide and tour operator. For many years he was able to acquire a lot of knowledge about the mountains, making it one of the most experienced certified mountain guides.

    He runs a family travel agency based in Huaraz, which was founded by his father, and is now managed by Juventino and his son, Eric.

    FROM 650 USDper person


    What People are Saying about Juventino Martin Albino Caldua


    The legend Juventino. My brother and I travelled to Huaraz to climb the Vallunaraju summit. Our guide Juventino has been the best guide I\'ve had over the past years and I have made a lot of hikes and climbing over the world. He is a very talented and experienced guide, he took care of us very much and made sure safety is first. We also had an amazing experience with the food, they cooked delicious meals. They also have top brand quality equipment that made us feel really safe, we had the lucky experience of having a horrible storm at the base camp and I believe that the north face summit series tent they provided saved us!!!! Overall, best guide I have ever had, made us feel very confortable and happy. If you want a guide to feel safe and have the best experience possible go with the legend Juventino!!!
    Read review

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