Join Marco, an IFMGA certified mountain guide on this 6-day trip to climb Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Climb the iconic peak of Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca.
Witness exceptional vistas of the Peruvian Andes.
Explore the beautiful landscapes of the valley of Callejón de Huaylas.
Rightly considered as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world, Alpamayo is worth climbing. Join me as I take you to the snowy peak of this mountain giant on this wonderful trip.
Located in the Cordillera de los Andes in the Cordillera Blanca, the iconic peak of Alpamayo (5,947 m) is locally known as Shuytu rahu which means the ‘snowy oblong’.
We will begin the trip in Huaraz and passing through the valley of Callejón de Huaylas we will cross Carhuaz, Yungay, and Caraz until we reach Cashapampa, the starting point of the trek. The first camp will be set up at Llamacoral.
From Llamacoral, we will continue along the Jatuncocha Lagoon and cross Santa Cruz Valley to get to the base camp. The pristine lagoon surrounded by sharp peaks will be sight like no other! The trail further leads onto a glacier to reach the high camp at 5,350 m. This spot offers stunning views of the west face.
The final climb to the summit will start from the high camp. We will start early, at about 1 am and advance on the direct route or the French route, using ropes. And, once we reach the top, it will be truly exhilarating!
Uncorrupted vistas of the Cordillera Blanca range will unfold in front of your eyes. After enjoying our time, we will descend via the same route.
On our return journey, we will walk through the valley of Arhuaycocha down the Quebrada de Santa Cruz and continue until we reach Huaraz to end this remarkable trip.
Remember that you must be in excellent physical condition to go on this tour. Also, previous mountaineering experience is definitely welcome.
So, if this amazing climb on Alpamayo interests you, then get in touch now to reserve your seat. Also, check out my trip to the summit of Huascaran here.
We will drive from Huaraz and go along the valley of the Callejón de Huaylas. Passing through Carhuaz, Yungay, and Caraz we will reach Cashapampa, from where we will start the trek to the first camp at Llamacoral camp (3,760).
Transportation: 3 hours.
Hours of walking: approximately 5 hours.
After breakfast, we will by the Jatuncocha Lagoon pass through the Santa Cruz Valley. You will clearly see the peaks of Taulliraju (5,830m), Quitaraju (6,040m), Artesonraju (6,025m) and snowy Alpamayo (5,947m). The route will further take us to the base camp (4,330m) where we will spend the night.
Hours of walking: approximately 5 hours.
Start towards the high camp after breakfast. Now, we will enter the glacier and begin to use our climbing equipment. You will be able to see the west face of Alpamayo from here.
Ascent hours: approximately 7 – 8 hours.
Beginning early, at around 1:00 am we will start climbing on the French or direct route. It will take us eight lengths of 60-meter rope. From the top, you will see stunning views of the Cordillera Blanca range. Later, we will descend by the same rappel route, until we pass the crevasse and then arrive at the Alto camp.
Hours of ascent and descent: approximately 10 hours.
After breakfast, we will descend towards the Base Camp where we will spend our last night.
Hours of descent: approximately 5 hours.
Walking through the valley of Arhuaycocha down the Quebrada de Santa Cruz, we will continue until we reach the town of Cashapampa. From here, you will be transported to Huaraz.
Hours of walking: approximately 6 hours.
I am an active member of the IFMGA and the Peruvian Mountain Guides Association. I have many years of mountaineering experience in the Cordillera Blanca, the Cordillera Huayhuash and in the Vilcanota mountain range. I also have extensive experience as a member of the Mountain Rescue Team.
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