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Alpamayo and Huascaran guided expedition in Peru

Join this challenging 21-day guided expedition to Alpamayo and Huascaran in Peru, alongside Juventino, a local IFMGA mountain guide.

Mountain RangeCordillera Blanca
Duration22 days
Offer periodJun, Jul, Aug
Type of tripNot specified

Description

Join me in this 22-day expedition to ascend the Alpamayo and Huascaran, the highest mountain in Peru! This is a perfect program for experienced mountaineers. You will enjoy a great challenge while you discover the beauty of the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes.

We will start the Alpamayo and Huascaran expedition with an acclimatization trek from the city of Huaraz (3100 m). After 5 days, we will then get to the Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). Two days later, we will reach the Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m).

The ascent of Alpamayo (5947 m) is really steep and it will mostly be a technical climb. That’s why it’s only suitable for well aclimatized climbers with previous summit experience.

After the ascent of the Alpamayo, we’ll descend to Huaraz and have a rest day. Then we will start our way up to the Huascaran (6768 m). The mountain has two summits: Huascaran North (6655 m) and Huascaran South (6768 m). Its ascent is not difficult. However, the risk of avalanches and elevation make it a challenging climb.

Also, due to crevasses, sometimes it can be a challenge getting from High Camp I to High Camp II. Nevertheless, climbing the Huascaran is one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes. It will be a trip to remember!

The next departure dates are the following: July 2 to 24, 2017;  July 6 to 28, 2017; July 9 to 31, 2017 and July 11 to August 2, 2017.

So contact me if you are interested in climbing the Alpamayo and Huascaran in Peru! I will be happy to answer your questions. You can also check the detailed Itinerary below. And if you want a less demanding expedition, take a look at this program: Santa Cruz trek + Nevado Pisco climb. 

Accommodation

-In tents during the expedition -Hotel Casa Andina or other hotel - 2 nights in Lima -Hotel San Sebastián or other hotel - 6 nights in Huaraz

More info

Participants: minimum 4, maximum 12 You can also join an open group. Prices vary according number of people. Contact me for more information. Meals are included during the trek, but not in hotels in Lima and Huaraz.

Meeting point

In Lima.

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Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arrival in Lima. Time to explore the city on your own. Overnight in hotel.

 

Day 2: Huaraz

Travel 8 hours by bus to Huaraz (3100 m). The trip is 400 km, across the amazing Pacific coastal dessert. Then we’ll pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Cruz valley and Huaraz (3100m.)  You can also fly from Lima to Huaraz, via LCPERU. It’s a50 minutes flight.

Day 3: Laguna Wilcacocha

Huaraz. Trekking to Laguna Wilcacocha (3725 m). We’ll visit the Cordillera Negra for acclimatization. You’ll enjoy a spectacular view of the Cordillera Blanca and its peaks: Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa, Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more. Overnight at hotel. 

Day 4: Laguna 69

Huaraz. Transfer to Yuracoral (3850 m). Cebollapampa. We’ll hike to Lake 69 (4450 m), a beautiful blue lake, surrounded by glaciers, with  great views of the Cordillera Blanca. The round trip will take us about 6 hours. We’ll return in the afternoon to Yuracoral Camp (3850 m).

Day 5: Huaripampa Camp

Cebollapampa/ Yuracoral. Transfer to Portachuelo Pass (4650 m). We’ll arrive in the village of Vaqueria (3750)Huaripampa Camp (3550 m), where our pack animals are. Short hike to Huaripampa Camp (3550 m). Overnight camp.

Day 6: Paria

We’ll continue to Huaripampa valley, past Paria (3800 m). Short hike in the area around Tuctupampa Camp (4150 m). From there we can see Punta Union Pass. Overnight Camp. 

Day 7: Alpamayo Base Camp

Paria. Trekking to Punta Union Pass (4750 m). We can see from there all of the Santa Cruz Valley and the trail that we will follow. We’ll stop for photos and then descend to Taullipampa camp (4250 m) to continue to Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). From this point we can already see Alpamayo, the goal of our expedition. Overnight camp.

Day 8: Ascend to Moraine Camp

Alpamayo Base Camp. Today we’ll prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo. From here, a local team (cook, porters, and local guides) will help us carry everything. We’ll follow the trail across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4900 m).

Day 9: Alpamayo High Camp

Moraine Camp. Today we’ll ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m). It’s on a steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the glacier constant changes, the situation in this area is different every year. From High Camp the summit looks so close! We’ll have an early dinner because we must get up very early tomorrow.

Day 10: Alpamayo summit

Summit day! From High Camp, today we’ll ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m). We’ll possibly follow the French route: a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will enjoy a spectacular view of the Cordillera Blanca! You’ll see the peak of Quitaraju (6036 m) and to the southwest the summit of Huascaran (6768 m.) Brief rest and photos at the summit. Return quickly to High Camp via a rappel, down the same route we came up. The climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon, if the weather is good. The ascent will take us 5 to 6 hours. The descent, about 2 to 3 hours. If the group is tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. But if everyone is fine, which is usual, we’ll descend to Alpamayo Base Camp.

Day 11: Extra day

Rest day in Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). This is an extra day, scheduled in case of bad weather or to return to Base Camp, if we stayed the previous night in High Camp.

Day 12: Descent

Base Camp. Today we begin our hike very early. We’ll  descend through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) Our minibus will take us back to Huaraz.  Overnight Hotel.

Day 13: Huaraz

Rest day in Huaraz. You’ll have the option of climbing at the walls of Chancas, 40 minutes from Huaraz. It’s a classic location for rock climbers, with 8 routes of different difficulties. It’s a perfect site to spend a peaceful day in nature. You can visit later the local hot springs and relax your  muscles.

Day 14: Huascaran Base Camp

Huaraz. Today we’ll start our trek to Huascaran Base Camp (4250 m). Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas to the village of Musho (3000 m). We’ll load our luggage onto donkeys for a 4 to 5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m). From there, we’ll have a fantastic view of the Cordillera Negra.

Day 15: High Camp I

From Huascaran Base Camp, today we’ll ascend  to High Camp I (5350 m). The southern and northern summits of Huascaran seem close enough to touch from this spot. Lodging in tents on the glacier. At night, temperature falls to as low as -13°C.

Day 16: High Camp II

Very early, we’ll start to ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m). We’ll climb over the steep section of the glacier, with avalanches in the chutes and crevasses. There’s also an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. Every year conditions change in this area because of the retreat of the glacier. We’ll continue up to Camp II in La Garganta (The Throat), between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) Night in tents on the glacier.

Day 17: Huascaran summit

Summit day! We’ll start our ascent to the South Summit very early this morning. The trail goes through many avalanche and crevasses zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge of the Huascaran. From the top, we’ll have an unforgettable view of all of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll enjoy the summit and take photos and then we’ll begin our descent back to High Camp II. If weather allows and everyone feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp, or we can either stay in High Camp II, rest one hour and start to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. The ascent takes about 6 to 7 hours and the descent to High Camp II, 3 to 4 hours. The descent from High Camp II to Base Camp also  takes 3 to 4 hours.

Day 18: Reserve day

This is an extra day, in case we face bad weather or to sleep in High Camp II. (Garganta, 6000 m).

Day 19: Musho-Huaraz

Today is our last expedition day. After the luggage is loaded in the mules and donkeys, we’ll descend to Musho, a walk of 3 to 4 hours. Then, our private transport will take us to Huaraz, our final destination. We’ll have a complimentary dinner at Juventino Albino Caldua’s place, where we’ll taste a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.

Day 20: Flight to Lima

Transfer to the Anta airport for a  50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for an 8 hour drive to Lima. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 21: Departure

Stay in Lima. Transfer to the airport. Overnight flight.

Day 22: Arrival

Arrival in your country of origin.


About the guide

guide profile img

IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide from Peru.

He was born in 1960 in Huaraz / Peru. With his 15th Age he learned the world of trekking and mountaineering know by he accompanied his father on trips with his clients.

To this day he is still working as a mountain guide and tour operator. For many years he was able to acquire a lot of knowledge about the mountains, making it one of the most experienced certified mountain guides.

He runs a family travel agency based in Huaraz, which was founded by his father, and is now managed by Juventino and his son, Eric.


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Prices per person

Group of 1

USD 6495 each

Group of 2

USD 3351 each

Group of 3

USD 3248 each

Group of 4

USD 3145 each

Group of 5

USD 3114 each

Group of 6

USD 3093 each

Group of 7

USD 3042 each

Group of 8

USD 2990 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

• Guiding fee

• Accommodation

• Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

• Transport during the trip

• Permit and entrance fees

• Group porters (transport of tents, cooking equipment, etc. for the group)

• Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner


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