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Alpamayo and Huascaran guided expedition in Peru

Alpamayo and Huascaran
Alpamayo and Huascaran
Alpamayo and Huascaran
Alpamayo and Huascaran
Alpamayo and Huascaran

Join this challenging 21-day guided expedition to Alpamayo and Huascaran in Peru, alongside a local certified mountain guide.

Not specified

Cordillera Blanca

22 Days

Jun, Jul, Aug


Description

Join me in this 22-day expedition to ascend the Alpamayo and Huascaran, the highest mountain in Peru! This is a perfect program for experienced mountaineers. You will enjoy a great challenge while you discover the beauty of the Cordillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes.

We will start the Alpamayo and Huascaran expedition with an acclimatization trek from the city of Huaraz (3100 m). After 5 days, we will then get to the Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). Two days later, we will reach the Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m).

The ascent of Alpamayo (5947 m) is really steep and it will mostly be a technical climb. That's why it's only suitable for well aclimatized climbers with previous summit experience.

After the ascent of the Alpamayo, we'll descend to Huaraz and have a rest day. Then we will start our way up to the Huascaran (6768 m). The mountain has two summits: Huascaran North (6655 m) and Huascaran South (6768 m). Its ascent is not difficult. However, the risk of avalanches and elevation make it a challenging climb.

Also, due to crevasses, sometimes it can be a challenge getting from High Camp I to High Camp II. Nevertheless, climbing the Huascaran is one of the highlights of mountaineering in the Andes. It will be a trip to remember!

The next departure dates are the following: July 2 to 24, 2017;  July 6 to 28, 2017; July 9 to 31, 2017 and July 11 to August 2, 2017.

So contact me if you are interested in climbing the Alpamayo and Huascaran in Peru! I will be happy to answer your questions. You can also check the detailed Itinerary below. And if you want a less demanding expedition, take a look at this program: Santa Cruz trek + Nevado Pisco climb. 

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation included

- Transportation start and back

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Group porters

- Personal porters

- Mules and horses

- Clean drinkable water

- Mountain guide expenses

- Hot shower

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

- Snacks

- Rope

- Belay and rappel devices

- Camping equipment tents

- Camping equipment cooking utensils

Price details

Not included:

• International flights to Lima / Peru round trip

• Transfer from the airport for bookings of individual flights with different times of arrival / departure

• Exit tax at the airport in Lima

• Travel accident and health insurance

• Luggage insurance and trip cancellation

• Meals in restaurants in Lima and Huaraz

• Personal expenses

• Acclimatization Tour

• Entrance fees to the Huascaran National Park

• Transfer from the Hotel to the airport and bus station

• Domestic flight Airline ticket LC-Peru

• Hotel Casa Andina 2 nights in Lima

• Hotel San Sebastián 4 nights in Huaraz

• Pick up at the airport in Lima to the Hotel

• Personal equipment (such as boots, ice ax, crampons, harness, sleeping bag, mat, Goretex, etc.)

• Tips four our local team


Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

Arrival in Lima. Time to explore the city on your own. Overnight in hotel.

 

Day 2: Huaraz

Travel 8 hours by bus to Huaraz (3100 m). The trip is 400 km, across the amazing Pacific coastal dessert. Then we’ll pass through the Cordillera Negra (Black Range) at Conococha Pass (4020 m) into the Santa Cruz valley and Huaraz (3100m.)  You can also fly from Lima to Huaraz, via LCPERU. It’s a50 minutes flight.

Day 3: Laguna Wilcacocha

Huaraz. Trekking to Laguna Wilcacocha (3725 m). We’ll visit the Cordillera Negra for acclimatization. You’ll enjoy a spectacular view of the Cordillera Blanca and its peaks: Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Hualcan, Copa, Vallunaraju, Ocshapalca, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Churup, and many more. Overnight at hotel. 

Day 4: Laguna 69

Huaraz. Transfer to Yuracoral (3850 m). Cebollapampa. We’ll hike to Lake 69 (4450 m), a beautiful blue lake, surrounded by glaciers, with  great views of the Cordillera Blanca. The round trip will take us about 6 hours. We’ll return in the afternoon to Yuracoral Camp (3850 m).

Day 5: Huaripampa Camp

Cebollapampa/ Yuracoral. Transfer to Portachuelo Pass (4650 m). We’ll arrive in the village of Vaqueria (3750)Huaripampa Camp (3550 m), where our pack animals are. Short hike to Huaripampa Camp (3550 m). Overnight camp.

Day 6: Paria

We’ll continue to Huaripampa valley, past Paria (3800 m). Short hike in the area around Tuctupampa Camp (4150 m). From there we can see Punta Union Pass. Overnight Camp. 

Day 7: Alpamayo Base Camp

Paria. Trekking to Punta Union Pass (4750 m). We can see from there all of the Santa Cruz Valley and the trail that we will follow. We’ll stop for photos and then descend to Taullipampa camp (4250 m) to continue to Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). From this point we can already see Alpamayo, the goal of our expedition. Overnight camp.

Day 8: Ascend to Moraine Camp

Alpamayo Base Camp. Today we’ll prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo. From here, a local team (cook, porters, and local guides) will help us carry everything. We’ll follow the trail across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4900 m).

Day 9: Alpamayo High Camp

Moraine Camp. Today we’ll ascend to Alpamayo High Camp (5300 m). It’s on a steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the glacier constant changes, the situation in this area is different every year. From High Camp the summit looks so close! We’ll have an early dinner because we must get up very early tomorrow.

Day 10: Alpamayo summit

Summit day! From High Camp, today we’ll ascend to Alpamayo Summit (5947 m). We’ll possibly follow the French route: a 60 to 80 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will enjoy a spectacular view of the Cordillera Blanca! You’ll see the peak of Quitaraju (6036 m) and to the southwest the summit of Huascaran (6768 m.) Brief rest and photos at the summit. Return quickly to High Camp via a rappel, down the same route we came up. The climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon, if the weather is good. The ascent will take us 5 to 6 hours. The descent, about 2 to 3 hours. If the group is tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. But if everyone is fine, which is usual, we’ll descend to Alpamayo Base Camp.

Day 11: Extra day

Rest day in Alpamayo Base Camp (4300 m). This is an extra day, scheduled in case of bad weather or to return to Base Camp, if we stayed the previous night in High Camp.

Day 12: Descent

Base Camp. Today we begin our hike very early. We’ll  descend through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) Our minibus will take us back to Huaraz.  Overnight Hotel.

Day 13: Huaraz

Rest day in Huaraz. You’ll have the option of climbing at the walls of Chancas, 40 minutes from Huaraz. It’s a classic location for rock climbers, with 8 routes of different difficulties. It’s a perfect site to spend a peaceful day in nature. You can visit later the local hot springs and relax your  muscles.

Day 14: Huascaran Base Camp

Huaraz. Today we’ll start our trek to Huascaran Base Camp (4250 m). Transfer from Huaraz through the Callejón de Huaylas to the village of Musho (3000 m). We’ll load our luggage onto donkeys for a 4 to 5 hour hike to Huascarán Base Camp (4250 m). From there, we’ll have a fantastic view of the Cordillera Negra.

Day 15: High Camp I

From Huascaran Base Camp, today we’ll ascend  to High Camp I (5350 m). The southern and northern summits of Huascaran seem close enough to touch from this spot. Lodging in tents on the glacier. At night, temperature falls to as low as -13°C.

Day 16: High Camp II

Very early, we’ll start to ascend to High Camp II (Garganta, 6000 m). We’ll climb over the steep section of the glacier, with avalanches in the chutes and crevasses. There’s also an area of icefall with 50° faces requiring ice climbing. Every year conditions change in this area because of the retreat of the glacier. We’ll continue up to Camp II in La Garganta (The Throat), between the North Summit (6655 m) and the South Summit (6768 m.) Night in tents on the glacier.

Day 17: Huascaran summit

Summit day! We’ll start our ascent to the South Summit very early this morning. The trail goes through many avalanche and crevasses zones until we arrive at the flat summit ridge of the Huascaran. From the top, we’ll have an unforgettable view of all of the Cordillera Blanca. We’ll enjoy the summit and take photos and then we’ll begin our descent back to High Camp II. If weather allows and everyone feels fine, we can descend to Base Camp, or we can either stay in High Camp II, rest one hour and start to go down to Base Camp. Dinner and lodging in Base Camp. The ascent takes about 6 to 7 hours and the descent to High Camp II, 3 to 4 hours. The descent from High Camp II to Base Camp also  takes 3 to 4 hours.

Day 18: Reserve day

This is an extra day, in case we face bad weather or to sleep in High Camp II. (Garganta, 6000 m).

Day 19: Musho-Huaraz

Today is our last expedition day. After the luggage is loaded in the mules and donkeys, we’ll descend to Musho, a walk of 3 to 4 hours. Then, our private transport will take us to Huaraz, our final destination. We’ll have a complimentary dinner at Juventino Albino Caldua’s place, where we’ll taste a special dish called Pachamanca. Lodging in the hotel.

Day 20: Flight to Lima

Transfer to the Anta airport for a  50 minute flight to Lima, or transfer to the bus terminal for an 8 hour drive to Lima. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 21: Departure

Stay in Lima. Transfer to the airport. Overnight flight.

Day 22: Arrival

Arrival in your country of origin.

 

Details

Accommodation

-In tents during the expedition -Hotel Casa Andina or other hotel - 2 nights in Lima -Hotel San Sebastián or other hotel - 6 nights in Huaraz

More info

Participants: minimum 4, maximum 12 You can also join an open group.

Prices vary according number of people. Contact me for more information.

Meals are included during the trek, but not in hotels in Lima and Huaraz.

Meeting point

In Lima.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will I need to bring any technical equipment of my own? Is it possible to rent equipment, and if so, what would be the approximate cost of that?

How far in advance should I start training and what kind of training do you suggest?

How will accommodation and meals be handled on the mountain?

What happens in the event of bad weather?

Can I join a group?

What is the guide-to-client ratio to climb this mountain?

What experience and how fit do I need to be to climb this mountain? Is this program suitable for children or older people?

Are there any other special requirements such as permits/insurance/vaccines that we need to consider before the tour?

Will there be porters to help to carry group and personal equipment?

What is the best time of the year to climb this mountain?

About the guide

Peru Expeditions is a Guide Agency and Tour Operator based in Huaraz, Peru.

It's a family-owned travel agency, which was founded more than 35 years ago, and is now managed by IFMGA-guide Juventino and his son, Eric.

We organize trekkings and mountain expeditions in Cordillera Blanca, and all around Peru.

Languages

| English

Certificates

AGMP | IFMGA


What people are saying about Peru Expeditions

Bad Hetterscheid

5.00

September, 2022

William was such a knowledgeable, friendly, and efficient guide! He brought books and support materials to further explain the history of the sites we were seeing, was always ready with an answer to any questions, and had great suggestions of where to take photos. He chose a truly remarkable cook for our trek, who kept us well fed with a huge variety of foods (and an ample supply of it!) and filled with hot beverages at all hours of the day and night. He allowed us to set the pace each day, and was cheerful and helpful and relaxed throughout-he absolutely enhanced a wonderful experience! Many thanks to you, William!

Bad Hetterscheid

5.00

September, 2022

Eric from Peru Expeditions is a fabulous, safe, and conscientious Tour Operator. He chose an incredible guide for us (Darwin) who was highly esteemed by every guide we met at every point along the journey-the respect of one’s peers speaks for itself! We were very well supported, always had perfect timing with seeing sunrises, beating “the crowd” to our destinations, and had ample food. The Peruvian mountains are stunningly beautiful- I’m ready to go back again already! Book with Eric - he’s going to take good care of you.

Connor White

5.00

September, 2022

Great service and trip!

Johannes Besmehn

3.00

August, 2022

The traveller did not leave a comment.

Alexey Volegov

5.00

July, 2022

The traveller did not leave a comment.

Matt LAIRD

5.00

November, 2021

Our guide was William and he is the one that really made the trip great!

Juliusz Zulauf

5.00

September, 2021

It was really good climbing expedition. The company put good effort to accommodate our needs and requests. Lima Central Office support was outstanding. Edgar, our climbing guide was top notch. Supporting staff during the climb was very helpful and friendly as well. For my personal needs, some modification of an acclimatisation scheme would be beneficial. First week of the trip consisted of various day trips to destinations of increasing altitudes, but all nights were at Huaraz, at 3100 m altitude. For me, to be fully acclimatized I need to sleep at the altitude. My first night at the higher altitude was at Pisco refuge (4800 m) and resulted with mild altitude sickness preventing me from successful climbing the following day. I would prefer spending two nights at high altitude before first high climb. It might not be the case for some other people, but it was for me. If not for this, I would had awarded straight five stars.

Marcela Hronesova

2.00

July, 2021

Disappointed with the whole experience. Didn't climb with Juventino, never met him. Got a different guide. Booked Pisco and Chopicalcui as separate climbs with one day off in between to rest. Agency combined the climbs. They told me to of go from Pisco BC directly to Chopicalcui moraine camp. Got a different guide who didn't tell me that we'll get snowed in at moraine camp. Only found out about the snow once we reached Chopicalcui moraine camp. Spent the night there, next day had to go down. Disappointed rebooked my flight and left Peru. Waste of my time and money.

Marcela Hronesova

4.00

July, 2021

The agency gave me a guide Darwin, not Juventino. Climb was good, easy just walking. There is one dangerous section near the moraine area with very loose gravel. So make sure you don't slip there or you are dead. I stayed in refugio at the base camp which was much more comfy than camping. Darwin was good but give clients some breaks once in a while, not rush too much. It's a high altitude climbing after all.

Tony Hoffman

5.00

September, 2020

The hike was canceled. We didn’t go anywhere. Didn’t even get into the country.

Flormila Pineda Villanueva

5.00

May, 2020

My visit to Huaraz was one of the most beautiful trips of my life. Our days of adventure began with the visit of lagoons in the white mountain range; wilcacocha, churup, paron, lagoon 69 and we finish with the most beautiful Santa Cruz trek. Our trip was a complete success, during the stay in Huaraz we stayed at the ALPAMAYO GUEST HOUSE hotel, an excellent place in the center of Huaraz. I recommend Mr. Juventino to make his trip and his hotel the and if nice family People.

Koseth Saenz

5.00

May, 2020

He was very kind, patient and helped me to reach my goal the citadel of Machupicchu. One day I wanted to quit but he encouraged me to continue and waited for my step.

Pietro Garanzini

5.00

May, 2020

Our experience in Peru was an unforgettable journey, we started a journey in this country to visit Machu Picchu and the surroundings of Cusco as a sacred valley, etc. Afterwards, our next destination was to arrive in the beautiful land of Huaraz, where our main goal was the trekking of Santa Cruz and a not very difficult base climb and after the trekking of Huayhuash. We will be back next year with more customers, friends of our mountain club, thanks for everything and see you soon in Huaraz!

Michael W English

5.00

March, 2020

From the very first emails communication which was dealt with efficiently and provide all the required information and other options for myself to consider. When I arrived the communication was excellent and very well organised. When I return later this year I will without doubt be using Eric and the team. When we arrive at the start point to getting back the local guide was excellent. I have nothing but praise for the set up.

Wolfgang Gratz

5.00

September, 2019

We did the MTB-Huarascan-Circuit (Crossing Punta Olimpica Pass and Portachuelo de Llanganuco Pass) with Eric Albinos „Peru Expedition“. All, the transfers, the hotel stays, the acclimatization tours and the circuit itself, was well organized. Eric and his staff were flexible to our wishes and very helpful. Our Guide Joni is an excellent mountain bike-guide and good tailor too if something is torn. The cook prepared delicious meals during the circuit. The camping equipment was in very good condition. We (Karin, Franz. Wolfgang) can fully recommend „Eric´s Peru Expeditions“.


 

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