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Ascent to Mount Cho Oyu

Mt Cho Oyu, in Nepal, is the sixth highest mountain in the world. Lakpa, IFMGA certified guide, help you ascend it in this 37-day mountaineering expedition.

Mountain RangeHimalaya
Duration37 days
Offer periodMar, Apr, May, Oct, Nov
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripNot specified

Description

Mount Cho Oyu stands high above the Tibetan plains. We can access the camp in a couple of hours from Tingri.

The great peak of Cho Oyu lies at border of Nepal and Tibet, the west of Mount Everest. It was first climbed by an Austrian Expedition in 1954 though the North West Face.

It is a technically straightforward mountaineering climb with less danger than the other 8000 meters mountains. Therefore Mount Cho Oyu offers a good peak for mountaineers who want to climb their first 8000 meter peak.

This adventurous expedition starts from Kathmandu where we have to obtain Tibet formalities. We will then drive along the Nepal / China Friendship – Highway to Zhangmu at the Nepal-Tibet frontier town.

Our representative and Chinese liaison official and transport will meet us at the border. We will travel by bus and jeep with all the equipment. Then we will spend a day in Nylam for acclimatization before driving over the Lungaa La (5050m) to Old Tingri.

From Old Tingri trucks drive off the main road to a grassy plain leading up to Nangpa La. We have several options to set up the base camp, we will probably place it on a flat moraine at the foot of the Gyabrag glacier. We have then 2 days to reach the Advanced Base Camp (ABC).

Camp I is 6400 metres high. If there is no snow a steep path up at scree slope, the camp is located on a broad snow field at the foot of the ridge leading up to a serac barrier which is the only real technical section on the route.

Above Camp II, the broad snow slopes lead more easily to Camp III at 7500 metres. This is the highest camp, we will make our summit attempts from here.

Summit day as always involves an early start. Depending on the snow conditions we may or may not encounter some easy scrambling as we make our way up and across the low angled west face.

The summit plateau is very large and unfortunately the highest point is a long way back. However if we are lucky with the weather we will enjoy the breathtaking views from the top. From there we can see Mount Everest, Lhotse, Chamlang, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and more of Khumbu. We should also see the Menlungtse and Gaurishankar massifs.

Normally it is possible to descend from the summit all the way to advance base camp on the same day. This will depend on snow conditions and members fitness.

If you wish to go for this fantastic adventure, please get in touch with me. I will guide you there with much pleasure, together with my team. Another challenging option is to ascend the mythical Everest. 

Accommodation

Guest house / Lodge & Camping.

Meeting point

At Kathmandu.

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Photos


Itinerary

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

Day 2: Preparation day

Packing the equipment.

Day 3: Drive to Zhangmu (1750m)

6 hours via Kodari

Day 4: Drive to Nylam (3650m)

3 hours

Day 5: Acclimatization

We will stay at Nylam for the acclimatization. We will do a hike in the surroundings.

Day 6: Drive to Old Tingri (4500m)

4-hour drive. We will stay in a local guesthouse.

Day 7: Drive to the Cho Oyu Base Camp (4800m)

3 hours

Day 8 to 9: Base Camp

2 days at Base Camp for acclimatization and to prepare the equipment which will be carried by the yaks.

Day 10: Advanced Base Camp

4-5 hours trek towards the Advanced Base Camp (5200m), 4-5 hrs. Camp on the way.

Day 11: Trek to Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp (5600m)

5 hours

Day 12 to 30: Climbing period

Climbing to the summit of Mt Cho Oyu.

Day 31: Return to Base Camp

Day 32: Base Camp

Clean up of the camp with packing and loading in trucks.

Day 33: Drive to Zhangmu

5 hours

Day 34: Drive to Kathmandu

6 hours

Day 35 to 36: Kathmandu

Free days in Kathmandu for individual activities with optional tour.

Day 37: Depart Kathmandu for international departure.


About the guide

guide profile img

I am an IFMGA/UIAGM certified mountain guide and an instructor guide. I started my career in the mountaineering and adventure sector in 1998 and since then I have been on the continuous journey of learning, training, exploring, and enjoying about the mountains.

I have guided several successful climbing expeditions in the Himalyas including Everest- 4 times, Makalu, Dawalagiri, Manaslu.... and other 7000 and 6000 m peaks. I am among the first batch of IFMGA/UIAGM guide from Nepal.

I'm an expert in high Altitude expeditions (Everest, Cho Oyu, Manaslu...). If one of these mountains is on your dreams' list...please get in touch with me and let's discuss about it together. I strongly believe that being guided by someone who comes from there provides a great added value to the journey.


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