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Climbing Mount Everest, North route

Get the chance to summit Mount Everest through the North Route from Tibet with Lakpa, one of the most experienced Nepalese IFMGA mountain guides.

Mountain RangeHimalaya
Duration42 days
Offer periodApr, May
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely Fit
Type of tripPrivate

Highlights

  • The highest and largest plateau on earth

  • Traditional villages with ancient buddhist culture all the way to Everest BC

  • Hidden high valleys and the world’s highest pasture land with Yaks and sheep’s

  • Awesome panoramic views on the 8000 m like Mount Cho-Oyu and Mount Shishapangma

  • World highest Rongbuk monastery and nunnery in the shade of towering Mt Everest

Description

Climbing Mount Everest is an extraordinary adventure which we will live together and most probably never forget! My name is Lakpa Sherpa, I’m an International Certified Mountain Guide (IFMGA) from Nepal and a guide leader for high altitude expeditions in the Himalayas, including Mount Everest, from both the south and north sides. 

Mt Everest is on the highest plateau in the world, in Tibet, although its south side is located in Nepal. The climb via the North Col or North Side is much more accessible than through the South Side. In going through the north, climbers avoid facing the Khumbu Ice Falls, a time consuming stage.

The Everest North Face route is more straightforward, technically speaking, than the South face. Since the past 10 years, it is accessible to drive until the base camp. Then we take Yaks and progress until Camp 3 or the Advance Base Camp (6500 m).

George Mallory and Andrew Irvine approached the Tibet route in 1920 and 1924. They were the first to try to summit Mt Everest. They didn’t succeed in these occasions, and it ended costing them their lives. Mallory’s motivation, as he told the reporters, to ascend Mt Everest, was “because it’s there”.

The first to successfully summit Mount Everest were Tenzing Norgey Sherpa (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand), in 1953. They ascended via the South ridge.

Me and my team will have expeditions during the pre and the post monsoon periods. In late May the chances of summiting the Everest are the highest. Before going to the top, we acclimatize in April and early May. Then we have a good rest at the base camp and finally attempt the summit.

Does this once in a lifetime experience sound interesting? Then please get in touch with me. We will take time to discuss the program, your physical abilities to ascend Mount Everest, the preparation, the logistics and the equipment.

If you are interested in this program, you might also like these ascents that I lead in Ama Dablam and Mt Himlung.

Accommodation

Hotel-Guesthouse-Lodge and Camping from Rongbuk onwards.

More info

The total duration of the trip is 41-42 days, from which the expedition lasts 33-34 days. The price for the expedition to Mount Everest through the North route will depend on several factors. Please get in touch with me for more information.

Meeting point

In Kathmandu.

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Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival at Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

On arrival I will meet you and help you transferring to your hotel. I will then brief you on the trip details with necessary information.

Day 2: Kathmandu sightseeing at places of interest

According to the program and if you decided for the sightseeing day guided tour, you will be picked up at your hotel. You will have the chance to see / visit the world heritage sites like the holy Hindu temple Pashupati Nath, the world biggest Stuppa of Boudhhanath (Little Tibet), the oldest Swoyambhunath Stupa (monkey temple), the Kathmandu Durbar Square.

Day 3: Preparation day for expedition

This day will be dedicated for the preparation of the expedition. We check / buy the essential equipment, gears, harness, crampons, ice axe with leash, webbing, cord, trekking poles, sleeping bag, headwear, footwear and other stuff. Our staff will obtain necessary permits and papers for the expeditions. There will be a special meeting in the evening regarding our pre-expeditions discussion with all our fellow expedition staff.

Day 4: Drive to Nylam 3800 m. 6-7 hs journey

Drive to Kodari and crossing the Friendship Bridge into Tibet. Depending on how long the journey takes, we will stay in Zhangmu or Nylam. We will take time to acclimatise on the way to the base camp.

Day 5: Free day at Nylam and acclimatisation

We will spend the at Nylam to acclimatise. It is the starting and ending point of the plateau where all the tree lines disappear for alpine bush and shrubs. Only a few trees survive there, like the Poplus and Willow.
For the ones that wish, they can hike to the 11th Century Saint Milereppa Cave and its monastery just beyond the town of Nylam on the way to Laylung la pass.

Day 6: Drive to Everest Base Camp 5200 m via Rongbuk Monastery. 6 hs.

On the way, we will pass over the Pang La (5000 m) which gives great views of the route and the entire North East Face of Everest. The road then descends to the foot of the Rongbuk valley and before it reaches the base camp we will stop at the Rongbuk Monastery.

Day 7 to 8: At Base Camp for acclimatisation and preparation

We will spend this first day at the base camp acclimatisatizing and sorting out the load and gear for the following the advance camps.

Day 9 to 11: Acclimatisation and Yak loading for the Advanced Base Camp - 6500 m

We will load the yaks for the advanced base camp, which is 22 km up the valley, requiring two days of hike. There are fantastic views on the North Face of Everest if the sky is clear.
We will make camp by the river half way, then set off early in the morning with the yaks to go the advanced base camp.

Day 12 to 13: Final preparation at the Advance Base camp

Day 14 to 34: Ascent of Mount Everest

21 days are reserved for the summit attempt, from the ABC we will follow the moraine towards the North Col and cross the glacier easily to its foot.
About 300 m of fairly deep snow climbing leads to the Col at 7066 m. The Col forms a fairly wide ridge which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp I. To the south, the Col rises to become the North Ridge. This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steeping into rocky shelves and short buttresses.
A second camp will be placed at around 7700 m.
Last camp will be placed at around 8300 m.
The final section of the climb takes in the notorious first and second steps. These are short, but abrupt rises, which will provide testing climbing at extreme altitude! It was on the second step that Mallory and Irvine were last seen before they disappeared in 1924. Once this has been ascended, the ridge leads more easily to the summit.

Day 35: Yaks arrive at ABC to return to the Base Camp

Day 36 to 37: Descend to the Base Camp

Day 38: Pack up at Base Camp

Day 39: Drive back to Zhangmu 1,700m. 06 hrs journeys

Day 40: Drive to Kathmandu

Day 41: Free day in Kathmandu

Day 42: Transfer to Airport for the International departure


About the guide

guide profile img

I am an IFMGA/UIAGM certified mountain guide and an instructor guide. I started my career in the mountaineering and adventure sector in 1998 and since then I have been on the continuous journey of learning, training, exploring, and enjoying about the mountains.

I have guided several successful climbing expeditions in the Himalyas including Everest- 4 times, Makalu, Dawalagiri, Manaslu.... and other 7000 and 6000 m peaks. I am among the first batch of IFMGA/UIAGM guide from Nepal.

I'm an expert in high Altitude expeditions (Everest, Cho Oyu, Manaslu...). If one of these mountains is on your dreams' list...please get in touch with me and let's discuss about it together. I strongly believe that being guided by someone who comes from there provides a great added value to the journey.


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