Paolo, an IFMGA mountain guide, will take you to the breathtaking summits of Lyskamm (4527 m) on an amazing 2-day ridge crossing. Be part of this adventure designed for expert mountaineers!
Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
Among the most famous crossings in the Alps, there is the Lyskamm crossing. It is both exciting for the challenge it requires as for the beauty of the heavenly peaks and clouds that embellish the entire Monte Rosa massif.
This is my plan designed for expert mountaineers: to cross this ridge at more than 4000 m, from one summit to the other. We will go East to West starting at the Mantova hut and towards the Quintino Sella hut.
Before the big day, we will acclimatize at the Mantova hut at 3480 m, have dinner and rest.
On the second day, we will start our crossing. It will take us up to 10 hours and all of our strength to cover 1100 m of ascent and 1750 m of descent through a challenging ridge, which does not have technical difficulties but it does require to stay focused on your steps for a long time.
It is also important to remember that you will need to be in excellent physical shape and to possess good training and experience in the use of ice ax and crampons to join. Because this is a difficult ascent, you will have a 1 on 1 guide to client experience.
If you are an experienced mountaineer, you will love this trip. So, do not wait for another second and book it right now.
You can also join me in this 2-day ascent to the Dufour peak at 4634 m.
- Guiding fee
- Accommodation included
The price does not include the trip on the cable car Alagna/Indren the first day, the round trip cable car Bettaforca-Staffal- Alagna the second day, half board in the hut or personal insurance. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared among participants.
We will meet in the Alagna lift station at 2 p.m. We will check the equipment and take the cable car to Punta Indren. Then, we will hike to the Mantova hut at 3500 m. We will have dinner and spend the night at the hut.
We will start early and walk along the Lys glacier. A couple of hours later, we will get to the starting point of the ridge. Along the narrow ridge we will arrive at the top of the first summit: the East Lyskamm at 4527 m. After a descent to the Col we will take a few rocky steps (up to grade II) to arrive to the second Lyskamm at 4491 m. Then, we will start our descent and finish in Alagna.
This itinerary goes along a very exposed snow ridge; there are not technical difficulties but it’s very important to stay focused on your steps for a long time. The steeper slope it’s about 50° and the last part that reaches the west Lyskamm is along some rock and mixed steps (II°). This challenging traverse is for experienced mountaineers.
You will need the following equipment: high mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light
Alagna lift station
Strange to say, I began my climbing career after I left behind my valley and my own mountains.
When I finished high school I moved to Turin, in order to get a mechanical engineer degree.
There I started to climb on a little indoor wall at the University Sport Centre and, very soon, I found myself dreaming on the greatest alps walls. I lived adventures made of fun, fatigue and satisfaction, I shared them with many friends who became climbing partners as well.
In Turin I got my degree and I worked for some years as a mechanical engineer consultant but, more than that, I discovered a new way to live and look at the mountains: sometimes they became playgrounds with attractions for everyone, sometimes a shelter, where to find myself again.
Meanwhile, an idea started to grow inside me and became a dream; a dream I would never give up: working in an office as big as the alps!
Making the long story short, I applied for the mountain guide training, had a huge professional development and became a UIAGM mountain guide.
Now I’m working full-time as a mountain guide, sharing my passion with a lot of different people on the Alps, since I'm based in the Monte Rosa area, but also around the world.
Italian | French | English
Alagna Valsesia, Piedmont
Nicholas and Digby
I just wanted to thank you very much for all the help in the difficult snow conditions. The primary aim of teaching Digby and reminding me of avalanche protocols and about skinning have been fully achieved. You made it all fund, clear and precise. Too bad we had poor conditions, but we still found some reasonable snow and mashed an awesome couloir, so we did really well considering. So thank you very much and only sorry that we could not make full use of you for the full five days.
The traveller did not leave a comment.
Our Guide Massimo was very professional. We were heading to the Margharita hut at 4,559 meters but unfortunately one of us got mountain sickness at 4,100 at Piramide Vincent. Furthermore the weather was getting worse...lots of wind and snow starting. Our guide was very firm and 'advised' to go back to the Mantova hut. We were extremely lucky because a few hours later the storm was very bad and as people may have heart, 2 Italian ladies died at Primade Vincent from the cold . So Massimo thanks for your perseverance!
We had an amazing climbing experience which was primarily duw to the excellent and experienced guide (Marco and Paolo). High calibre individuals wgo really care about the group’s well being and pushing the tea. To their limits in a good way. The only comment we have is the primitive toilet facilities and lack of water to wash up at Margerita hutte.
Marco helped arrange for our group to have 2 amazing guides: Paolo and Pietro. We were a large group of 11 people with no glacier crossing experience as well as variable fitness and comfort levels. Our guides brought all the necessary equipment and made sure that safely was a priority. They helped give extra support to those in the group that needed assistance. There is a brand new route to the Monte Rosa Hutte (open since mid-June 2019). Our guides hadn't taken the new route yet and took us on the old route on the way up to the hut. After having a day to gauge the group ability, and gathering more information about the new route at the hut, we did the new route on the way back to Zermatt. Everyone in the group had a great time.
Our guide was Pietro and not marco like we initially thought. Pietro was awesome, it is all about his clients and most importantly safety. We did two runs and it was an incredible experience. Guide is a must to explore the hidden spots because Monterosa ski is massive.
PAOLO was an amazing guide. This trip was the “craziest” experience of our groups lives. We saw incredible terrain, had great snow, and challenged ourselves. Highly recommend
We had a fablupus day. We were initially booked with Marco but due to the weather we went later in the week and Marco wasn't available. We had another guide called Paolo Tombini and he was very good, very professional and good company.
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