Marco, an IFMGA mountain guide, will take you to the breathtaking summits of Lyskamm (4527 m) on an amazing 2-day ridge crossing. Be part of this adventure designed for expert mountaineers!
Among the most famous crossings in the Alps, there is the Lyskamm crossing. It is both exciting for the challenge it requires as for the beauty of the heavenly peaks and clouds that embellish the entire Monte Rosa massif.
This is my plan designed for expert mountaineers: to cross this ridge at more than 4000 m, from one summit to the other. We will go East to West starting at the Mantova hut and towards the Quintino Sella hut.
Before the big day, we will acclimatize at the Mantova hut at 3480 m, have dinner and rest.
On the second day, we will start our crossing. It will take us up to 10 hours and all of our strength to cover 1100 m of ascent and 1750 m of descent through a challenging ridge, which does not have technical difficulties but it does require to stay focused on your steps for a long time.
It is also important to remember that you will need to be in excellent physical shape and to possess good training and experience in the use of ice ax and crampons to join. Because this is a difficult ascent, you will have a 1 on 1 guide to client experience.
If you are an experienced mountaineer, you will love this trip. So, do not wait for another second and book it right now.
You can also join me in this 2-day ascent to the Dufour peak at 4634 m.
This itinerary goes along a very exposed snow ridge; there are not technical difficulties but it’s very important to stay focused on your steps for a long time. The steeper slope it’s about 50° and the last part that reaches the west Lyskamm is along some rock and mixed steps (II°). This challenging traverse is for experienced mountaineers. You will need the following equipment: high mountain clothing, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, head light
Alagna lift station
We will meet in the Alagna lift station at 2 p.m. We will check the equipment and take the cable car to Punta Indren. Then, we will hike to the Mantova hut at 3500 m. We will have dinner and spend the night at the hut.
We will start early and walk along the Lys glacier. A couple of hours later, we will get to the starting point of the ridge. Along the narrow ridge we will arrive at the top of the first summit: the East Lyskamm at 4527 m. After a descent to the Col we will take a few rocky steps (up to grade II) to arrive to the second Lyskamm at 4491 m. Then, we will start our descent and finish in Alagna.
I am Marco, and I am an UIAGM certified mountain guide since 2003. I started rock climbing when I was 14, and at the age of 20 I climbed the great Californian walls of El Capitan. Then i explored Patagonia, climbing the mythical Fitz Roy. I have also opened new routes in the Moroccan High Atlas and in the Alps.
My passion for the mountains drives me to work throughout the year, looking for new adventures. Depending on the season, I take my clients rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing, freeriding, hiking... Either in the Alps, since i'm based in the Monte Rosa area, or in many other countries, in different continents.
The mountain as a playground has no limits!
We had an amazing climbing experience which was primarily duw to the excellent and experienced guide (Marco and Paolo). High calibre individuals wgo really care about the group’s well being and pushing the tea. To their limits in a good way. The only comment we have is the primitive toilet facilities and lack of water to wash up at Margerita hutte.
Our guide was Pietro and not marco like we initially thought. Pietro was awesome, it is all about his clients and most importantly safety. We did two runs and it was an incredible experience. Guide is a must to explore the hidden spots because Monterosa ski is massive.
PAOLO was an amazing guide. This trip was the “craziest” experience of our groups lives. We saw incredible terrain, had great snow, and challenged ourselves. Highly recommend
We had a fablupus day. We were initially booked with Marco but due to the weather we went later in the week and Marco wasn\'t available. We had another guide called Paolo Tombini and he was very good, very professional and good company.
Group of 1
|EUR 722 each|
Want a different number of travellers?
- Guiding fee
The price does not include the trip on the cable car Alagna/Indren the first day, the round trip cable car Bettaforca-Staffal- Alagna the second day, half board in the hut or personal insurance. Guide’s lift ticket and half board will be shared among participants.