Vestpillaren Direct: 1-Day Climb on Presten’s West Pillar in Lofoten

Vestpillaren Direct is one of the most iconic climbing routes in the Lofoten Islands, Norway. This majestic granite wall rises above the scenic coastal road to Henningsvær and offers 12 unforgettable pitches of technical climbing, alpine exposure, and panoramic views. Join me for this full-day adventure on one of the country’s most celebrated traditional climbs.

This route is a true classic — approximately 450 meters of vertical granite following cracks and slabs all the way to the summit of Presten (“The Priest”). First climbed in 1978, it has since become a benchmark for traditional climbing in Norway.

The climb features a variety of styles:

• Beautiful technical crack climbing
• Exposed slab sections requiring balance and precision
• A spectacular summit panorama that rewards your effort

We’ll meet in the morning in Henningsvær sentrum, and depending on the season and team pace, the full experience takes 8 to 10 hours, including the approach and descent. The exact start time will be arranged based on the weather and your preference — this is a private tour, and fully personalized.

To join this ascent, you must have prior experience in multi-pitch traditional climbing and be comfortable following or leading at grades around FR 6a+ / US 5.10b/c / NO 6. This route is not suitable for beginners. A warm-up climb on a previous day is strongly recommended if you’re not already acclimatized to the rock and style.

All technical gear is provided, and the outing is open for individuals or pairs (max 2 climbers per guide). The season runs from May to October, and I’ll be happy to assist you with accommodation options through our local partners.

If you’re ready to take on this legendary route and experience the heart of Lofoten’s granite climbing, send me a message. I or one of the certified guides on my team will make sure you enjoy a safe, memorable and inspiring ascent.