Khan Tengri, Kyrgyzstan, 21 Day Guided Ascent

Your climb begins with your arrival in Bishkek, the starting point for the southern approach to Khan Tengri from Kyrgyzstan. A guide will meet you at the airport, transfer you to the hotel, and assist with the required climbing paperwork.

Later, we will check your personal equipment, enjoy a walk around the capital, and finish the day with dinner and a briefing.

Early in the morning, we depart Bishkek and drive to Kar-Kyra Base Camp at 640 m.

Along the way, you will see the stunning Lake Issyk-Kul before continuing into the foothills of the Central Tien Shan, where your tent camp and buffet service will be ready.

Today begins with a helicopter transfer to South Inylchek Base Camp at 4,000 m, located on a glacier in the heart of the Tien Shan. From here, you will enjoy excellent views of Khan Tengri and Pobeda Peak.

A tent camp is set up at base camp, and a high-altitude chef will provide three meals a day.

We spend the entire day around South Inylchek Base Camp, taking an acclimatization walk, preparing for the ascent, and practicing essential glacier techniques.

We leave South Inylchek Glacier and cross it to reach First Camp at 4,100 m.

Tonight, we sleep in tents at the foot of Chapaev Peak and prepare for the climb ahead.

This stage starts during the night as we move toward Second Camp at 5,300 m. To reduce risk at the difficult “Bottle” section, we begin long before sunrise.

The ascent continues along the Semenovsky Glacier in rope teams, and after the first part of the day, we rest in our tents before the next stage.

The week ends with a climb to Third Camp at 5,800 m beneath Khan Tengri. From here, the views of the “Lord of the Sky” pyramid are spectacular, and this will be your first night at significant altitude.

We descend back to South Inylchek Base Camp at 4,100 m along the same route, where a well-earned meal prepared by the high-altitude chef will be waiting.

These two days are reserved for rest, acclimatization, and final preparation for the summit attempt on one of the world’s most iconic peaks.

In the evening, we move back to First Camp at 4,100 m below Chapaev Peak and settle in for the night.

We start early, cross the “Bottle” section, and continue up to Third Camp at 5,800 m, where we sleep in tents. If the team feels strong enough, the summit push may begin from here without moving to the fourth camp.

Today we cross the 6,000-meter mark and continue to Fourth Camp. The route follows a ridge and then opens onto high-altitude terrain at around 6,100 m to 6,400 m.

We spend the night in tents and prepare for summit day.

Today is the summit push to the top of Khan Tengri at 7,010 m. The route includes fixed ropes, rocky sections, a narrow couloir with a steep wall, and a snow dome.

After overcoming each challenge, you reach the summit. The descent is just as demanding, with many rappels on the way back to Third Camp at 5,800 m.

We return to South Inylchek Base Camp at 4,000 m, where you can finally take in the unforgettable sight of Khan Tengri with a mix of exhaustion, relief, and awe.

These extra days are kept in reserve in case of bad weather or delays, giving the expedition flexibility when conditions on the mountain are less favorable.

The expedition concludes with a helicopter flight back to Kar-Kyra Base Camp and onward transfer to Bishkek.

Your final day is free to enjoy Bishkek, sample Central Asian cuisine, and shop for souvenirs from hospitable Kyrgyzstan. Your flight home is scheduled for the following day.