4.8
(23 reviews)
Ojos del Salado rises to 6,893 meters on the border of Argentina and Chile, standing as the world's highest active volcano and one of South America's most rewarding high altitude objectives. Whether you're planning an Ojos del Salado expedition, a guided summit attempt, or a multi-day acclimatization program, you'll find trips designed for experienced mountaineers looking to reach this iconic peak. Climbers can ascend via the scenic San Francisco Pass from Argentina or choose the shorter Chilean approach, with both routes offering unforgettable volcanic landscapes and excellent summit opportunities. Browse our Ojos del Salado climb and Ojos del Salado tour options, connect with certified local guides, and start planning your next high altitude adventure.
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Why should I choose an Ojos del Salado expedition?
Ojos del Salado is one of the world's most sought-after high altitude objectives. At 6,893 meters, it is the highest active volcano on Earth and the second highest peak in both the Southern and Western Hemispheres. A guided expedition combines spectacular desert scenery, relatively non-technical climbing, and the opportunity to experience one of the Andes' most iconic summits.
When is the best season for an Ojos del Salado climb?
The best time for an Ojos del Salado climb is between October and March, when temperatures are milder and weather conditions are generally more stable. Even during the climbing season, strong winds, freezing temperatures, and sudden storms are common at high altitude, so flexibility and proper preparation remain essential.
How fit do I need to be for an Ojos del Salado expedition?
Excellent physical fitness is essential. Although the climbing is technically straightforward for most of the route, the extreme altitude makes the ascent very demanding. Most climbers prepare with endurance training and previous experience on peaks above 5,000 meters. Guides also recommend completing an acclimatization program before attempting the summit.
Do I need previous mountaineering experience?
Previous high altitude trekking or mountain climbing experience is highly recommended. Most of the ascent involves hiking over volcanic terrain, but the final summit section typically requires a helmet, harness, and fixed ropes. Your guide will explain how to use the equipment safely if needed.
What should I pack for an Ojos del Salado climbing expedition?
You'll need layered clothing suitable for temperatures well below freezing, insulated boots compatible with crampons, gloves, goggles, sunglasses, sun protection, a warm sleeping bag, and a large expedition backpack. Most technical equipment can usually be rented through your guide if arranged in advance.
Which route is best: Argentina or Chile?
The Argentina route via San Francisco Pass offers excellent acclimatization opportunities, quieter surroundings, and a gradual approach. The Chile route is shorter and more commonly used, making it a popular choice for climbers with limited time. Your ideal route depends on your experience, available days, and acclimatization strategy.
How important is acclimatization on Ojos del Salado?
Acclimatization is one of the most important factors for a successful summit. Most expeditions spend several days gradually gaining altitude while climbing nearby peaks before the summit push. Proper acclimatization significantly reduces the risk of altitude sickness and improves your chances of reaching the top safely.
Are permits required for an Ojos del Salado expedition?
Yes. Permit requirements vary depending on whether you climb from Argentina or Chile. Your certified guide or expedition operator will normally organize permits, park access, transportation logistics, and any required border formalities before the expedition begins.
Is it safe to climb Ojos del Salado without a guide?
Although the standard route is not highly technical, climbing independently is not recommended because of the extreme altitude, remote location, rapidly changing weather, and complex logistics. A certified mountain guide improves safety, manages emergency situations, and helps maximize your chances of a successful summit.
Where do climbers stay during an Ojos del Salado tour?
Most expeditions begin in nearby towns such as Fiambalá in Argentina or Copiapó in Chile. During the climb, teams typically stay in mountain refuges, high camps, or expedition camps depending on the chosen route and itinerary.
What certifications do Explore-Share guides hold?
Explore-Share partners with experienced local mountain guides who hold nationally recognized certifications. On Ojos del Salado, many Argentine guides are certified by EPGAMT, while Chilean guides commonly hold ACGM certification. These qualifications demonstrate professional training in mountain leadership, risk management, and high altitude guiding.
What else can I do during my Ojos del Salado trip?
Many climbers extend their visit by exploring the Atacama region's colorful lagoons, high altitude deserts, hot springs, and nearby volcanoes. Popular acclimatization climbs include peaks around the San Francisco Pass, making the area an excellent destination for a longer Andean mountain climbing adventure.
This review was for a guide (Gaston Lopez) sent by Hernan. This was the worst guiding I've experienced on any trip taken over the last 8 years on over a dozen trips around the world. Numerous issues that you would not expect from a guide who's been certified for 12+ years. The most significant being: suggested I could wear normal hiking boots on a 6016 meter mountain (Nevado San Francisco) when I've always worn doubles on 6000 and even on cold 5000 meter mountains. An inexperienced person could have had foot issues/frost bite as it was cold the day we summited. Not knowing the route on Ojos - he suggested we try for the summit at 13:30 after moving from Arenal to the higher camp, but couldn't provide an answer when I asked what the average time was for people to summit when leaving from the high camp. We eventually had to turn around from this summit attempt because he seriously misjudged the timing and lost the route during our ascent. After this failed attempt, he said we'd make another attempt the following morning and that it would take maybe 7 hours up and 5 hours down, meaning we'd need to leave by 8:00 at the absolute latest to make it back before dark. The next morning he was still sleeping at 7:00, and hadn't mentioned anything about departure time the night before, so I left before him and led myself up to the plateau before he caught up and we went the rest of the way together. By this point I had lost all confidence in his guiding ability, advice, and planning, so I made the decision to leave on my own for the summit because I knew he wasn't leaving me enough time by sleeping in. Other issues: every time this guide verbalized the itinerary, it was different (he was clearly very disorganized and lacked basic planning skills); this was the worst and cheapest food I've experienced on any trip. Example: after an 11-hour summit day, we had canned lentils, canned vegetables, rice, tuna, and tomatoes mixed together for dinner vs. other teams that ate grilled meat, stir fry, hamburgers, tacos, etc. There was also inadequate/low quality breakfast of cookies and cereal only, as opposed to other teams eating eggs, toast with jam & peanut butter, bread/chapati, etc.; of all the guided teams at Las Grutas, we didn't have paperwork for the car to get past the gendarmie post so we had to get a ride from someone else to Nevado (shows poor planning and logistics); pacing was not great and he was so far ahead of me most of the time that he had no idea what my pace was, not to mention this is a dangerous practice in terms of keeping an eye on your client; guide had no hand sanitizer and didn't wash hands when preparing food; guide incorrectly told me I was developing HAPE because of a cough I tend to get at altitude but my oxsat was 83% and resting heart rate was ~95 bpm at 5500 meters.
Michael
Highly recommended, very professional and trained guide. Attentive at all times to the needs of each one. The expedition was a complete success. Thanks Eze!!
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