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Climbing Khan Tengri (7010m), Tian Shan

Join local KMGA-certified guide Andrey on this challenging 21-day ascent of Khan Tengri, one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Private

Tian Shan

21 Days

Jul, Aug

Extremely Fit

Advanced

Highlights

Climb the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan range.
Take part in a mountaineering trip for experts.

Description

Shaped like an artist’s drawing of a mountain, Khan Tengri (7010m) has to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

It is the second-highest mountain in the Tian Shan range. Only Pobeda (7439m), located just a short distance down the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, surpasses Khan Tengri.

Khan Tengri is a popular mountain to climb but, compared to Lenin Peak, still receives few climbers. Moreover, most of those who attempt to climb this mountain belong to the former Soviet block. Visitors from outside this area are still relatively few in number.

As an experienced guide and climber that reached this summit 5 times, I can provide you a unique adventure where security will be at the center of the experience.

One of the classic routes I offer starts from the south. First, we will reach the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. And then, we’ll go for the summit attack. This route is very popular among mountaineers. Depending on weather conditions, we will use between three or four camps to climb Khan Tengri.

The Khan Tengri ascent is for expert mountaineers only. You need to have considerable mountaineering experience and also an excellent fitness level. The ascent is very demanding and should not be underestimated.

I’m a local KMGA mountain guide with extensive experience in the area. I will do my best to help you reach the summit! So join me on this amazing adventure. It will be an unforgettable experience and you’ll also get to discover this beautiful unspoiled region!

I also lead a climbing expedition to Pobeda Peak. Check it out!

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation included

- Transport during the trip

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

Price details

All transfers and helicopter flights included in the price.

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.

Day 2: Drive Bishkek - Karkara ( 460 km ), night at the Camp.

Day 3: Helicopter flight to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).

Day 4: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent

Day 5: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent

Day 6: Camp N° 1 . 4200m

Day 7: Camp N° 2 . 5300m

Day 8: Camp N° 3 . 5800m

Day 9: Descent to BC

Day 10: Rest and preparation day

Day 11: Day of rest and preparation

Day 12: Camp N° 1

Day 13: Camp N° 3

Day 14: Ascent to the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp 3.

Day 15: Descent to base camp

Day 16: Additional day in case of bad weather

Day 17: Additional day in case of bad weather

Day 18: Additional day in case of bad weather

Day 19: Helicopter flight to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.

Day 20: Day in Bishkek

Day 21: Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Details

Accommodation

Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!). Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC.

More info

COMMUNICATION Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.

HEALTH Consultancy with doctor.

TRANSPORTATION Transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek. Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back. Helicopter flight to BC and back.

Meeting point

Bishkek

About the guide

Andrey

5.00

(11)

Mountain Guide

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA

Residence

Bishkek

What people are saying about this trip

Peter Eckstrom

5.00

August, 2019

I had an awesome climb with Andrey to the summit of Peak Khan Tengri in August 2019. Andrey is a terrific guide and climbing companion. This climb was a huge challenge for me, both technically and physically. Andrey was outstanding in his focus on having a safe climb while at the same time doing everything possible to enable me to reach the summit. He showed excellent judgment and resourcefulness in planning our itinerary and making adjustments when needed. He was extraordinarily patient with my shortcomings. His friendly and engaging personality was a great benefit as well. I can honestly say, my positive experience on Khan Tengri was due in no small part to Andrey. I look forward to climbing with him again someday.