Climbing Khan Tengri (7010m), Tian Shan

Join local KMGA-certified guide Andrey on this challenging 21-day ascent of Khan Tengri, one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

 
 

Details

 

Trip Duration

21 days

Mountain Range

Tian Shan

People per Guide

2 people

Trip Level

Hard

Offer Period

Jul, Aug

Type of Trip

Private

Highlights

 
  • Climb the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan range.
  • Take part in a mountaineering trip for experts.
 

Shaped like an artist’s drawing of a mountain, Khan Tengri (7010m) has to be one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

It is the second highest mountain in the Tian Shan range. Only Pobeda (7439m), located just a short distance down the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, surpasses Khan Tengri.

Khan Tengri is a popular mountain to climb but, compared to Lenin Peak, still receives few climbers. Moreover, most of those who attempt to climb this mountain belongs to the former Soviet block. Visitors from outside this area are still relatively few in number.

One of the classic routes I offer starts from the south. First, we will reach the Western Col from the Southern Inylchek glacier. And then, we’ll go for the summit attack.

This route is very popular among mountaineers. Depending on weather conditions, we will use between three or four camps to climb Khan Tengri.

The Khan Tengri ascent is for expert mountaineers only. You need to have considerable mountaineering experience and also an excellent fitness level. The ascent is very demanding and should not be underestimated.

I’m a local KMGA mountain guide with extensive experience in the area. I will do my best to help you reach the summit! So join me on this amazing adventure. It will be an unforgettable experience and you’ll also get to discover this beautiful unspoiled region!

I also lead a climbing expedition to Pobeda Peak. Check it out!

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Price per person

 
Group of 1
3700 EUR
Group of 2
3500 EUR
 

Price includes

 
  • Guiding fee
  • Accommodation
  • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
 Cancellation Policy
 

Itinerary

 
  • Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.
  • Day 2: Drive Bishkek - Karkara ( 460 km ), night at the Camp.
  • Day 3: Helicopter flight to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).
  • Day 4: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent
  • Day 5: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent
  • Day 6: Camp N° 1 . 4200m
  • Day 7: Camp N° 2 . 5300m
  • Day 8: Camp N° 3 . 5800m
  • Day 9: Descent to BC
  • Day 10: Rest and preparation day
  • Day 11: Day of rest and preparation
  • Day 12: Camp N° 1
  • Day 13: Camp N° 3
  • Day 14: Ascent to the summit (7010 m.) and descent to the camp 3.
  • Day 15: Descent to base camp
  • Day 16: Additional day in case of bad weather
  • Day 17: Additional day in case of bad weather
  • Day 18: Additional day in case of bad weather
  • Day 19: Helicopter flight to BC “Karkara” and drive to Bishkek. Accommodation at hotel.
  • Day 20: Day in Bishkek
  • Day 21: Transfer to the airport. Departure.
 
 

Other details

 
Skill level required

Advanced

Fitness level required

Extremely Fit

Meeting point

Bishkek

Accommodation

Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!). Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC.

More info

COMMUNICATION

Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service.

HEALTH

Consultancy with doctor.

TRANSPORTATION

Transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek. Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back. Helicopter flight to BC and back.

 

About the Guide

 
Andrey Erokhin

Andrey Erokhin

Mountain Guide

  • 7 reviews
 

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.

 
 

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What People are Saying about Andrey Erokhin

 

For our rock climbing week Andrey had put together a programm which was ideally tailored to our skills. He handled everything in a very professional and trouble-free way. Under his guidance we learned a lot and gained confidence to undertake more challenging tours for ourselves in the future. At the same time, Andrey is also a really nice guy to hang out with. We had lots of fun during our tours and in the evenings. Thanks Andrey!
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Martina Zahno
We were a large group of 15 guys that spend one week with Andrey and his colleagues (because of the group size we had two additional guides). Andrey is a great guide and a good organiser. From we ordered until we arrived Andrey was available on Whatsapp and responded almost imminently to all our questions. When we landed we were meet by Andrey at the airport and a fleet of large SUV`s that took us to the base camp that was the starting point from the touring. The base camp was located far up in the mountains on the Kazakhstan border. The accommodations where ok, with a nice sauna as a pleasant surprise. The ski touring was nice in variated terrain. We were a bit unlucky with unstable snow conditions forcing us to ski a bit less steep than we hoped for, but the area got massive potential for nice skiing. We decided to end touring after five days in the mountain and spend the last night in Bishkek. There Andrey stepped into the role of a tourist guide and showed us around town, a really nice gesture which we did not expect. Overall a trip I would recommend to anyone wanting to ski in a country you would not expect to travel to. And when you go, Andrey is your choice for guide ;)
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Andreas Waal
Despite not summiting, The Lenin Peak trip and the professionalism and abilities of Andrey far surpassed my best expectations. Andrey was responsible, knowledgeable, compassionate, and most of all a great person to spend 21 days with. Andrey displayed a high level of good judgement in regards to our decisions on the mountain and ensured the safety of everyone in our group at all times. I would not hesitate to use Andrey for any mountain adventure.
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Jashan dhillon
It is a very nice trip within the untouched landscape of Kyrgyzstan. I highly recommend Andrey as a guide, he is a really skillful and experienced mountain guide. He takes his job very serious and calculate risks as much as possible. For this trip you need to be very fit because the first day you need to do a hike of 18km with al your gear for the week. If you are fit enough and don\'t mind to go back to basic then I would recommend this trip. If you are not, then Andrey has also some other trips that can fit your needs.
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Sam
 

Other trips in Issyk Kul

Pobeda
Lenin peak
Jengish Chokusu (Victory Peak)
Ala Archa National Park

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