Pobeda Peak guided climbing expedition

This is a once in a lifetime experience: climb the Pobeda peak, in the Tian Shan range in Kyrgyzstan during a 27 day trip with Andrey, KMGA mountain guide.

Not specified

Tian Shan

27 Days

Jul, Aug

Description

The Pobeda Peak surpasses some of the highest peaks in the imposing Tian Shan range by more than 400 m. It has a broad and complex structure, and leaves a strong impression. It name means "victory peak".

Climbing this mountain can be rather dangerous and exhausting. It is considered to be “the coldest mountain on earth".

For its ascent, most of the routes start from the West and Northwest. In fact, Pobeda Peak is one of the northernmost 7000 m peaks on earth. Due to the combination of these factors, reaching the summit is extremely challenging. During the last ten years not many mountaineers have made it!

So, if you decide to test yourself and face these challenges while staying safe, I will gladly help you. Please be aware that you need to have extensive mountaineering experience and be in excellent physical conditions to attempt to climb Pobeda. It's definitely not for beginners!

Climbing Pobeda Peak is an outstanding opportunity for mountain lovers and professionals to achieve their personal aspirations and aims.

Does this incredible expedition sound appealing? Then please contact me so we can start planning this amazing adventure!

If you'd like to go on another adventure in the Tian Shan range, I can also take you to climb Khan Tengri.

Price includes

- Guiding fee

- Accommodation included

- Transportation start and back

- Transport during the trip

- Permit and entrance fees

- Breakfast

- Lunch

- Dinner

Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel.

Day 2: Transfer Bishkek- Karkara (460 km), accommodation at the Camp.

Day 3: Fly by helicopter to BC “South Inylchek” (4000m).

Day 4: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 5: Acclimatization and preparation for ascent.

Day 6: Climb to the camp N° 1. 4600m.

Day 7: Climb to the camp N° 2. 5300m.

Day 8: Climb to the camp N° 3. 5700m.

Day 9: Climb to the camp N° 4. 6400 m.

Day 10: Descent to the camp N° 1. 4600 m.

Day 11: Descent to the base camp.

Day 12: Rest day.

Day 13: Climb to the camp N° 1.

Day 14: Climb to the camp N° 2.

Day 15: Climb to the camp N° 3.

Day 16: Climb to the camp N° 4.

Day 17: Climb to the camp N° 5. 6900 m.

Day 18: Climb to the camp N° 6. 7100 m.

Day 19: Ascent of summit and descent to the camp N° 5.

Day 20: Descent to the camp N° 3.

Day 21: Descent to the camp N° 1.

Day 22: Descent to the base camp.

Day 23: Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 24: Additional day in case of bad weather.

Day 25: Helicopter flight to Karkara and transfer to Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.

Day 26: Free day in Bishkek. Overnight in hotel.

Day 27: Transfer to the airport. Departure.

Details

Accommodation

Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!). Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC.

More info

Included in the price : - Guide service; - Meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek; - Transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek; - Transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back; - Helicopter flight to BC and back; - Unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back; - Accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!); - Accommodation in double tents with full board at BC “South Inylchek“; - Free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“; - Consultancy of doctor; - Registration with local Rescue Party; - Ecology fee payable for usage of territory at BC; - Usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service; - Rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents; - Usage of fixed ropes on the route; - Change of air-flight and railway tickets; - Frontier zone permit;

Meeting point

In Bishkek.

About the guide

Andrey

5.00

(11)

Mountain Guide

I was born in what is now Bishkek, the Capital City of Kyrgyz Republic (used to be Frunze, the Capital of Kyrgyz Soviet Socialist Republic) and live there ever since.

I started guiding professionally in 2004. I guide groups and individuals in technical and high altitude climbing, ski-tours, backcountry skiing, rock-climbing, ice climbing. I can also provide training facilities and organize trekking programs.

My main priorities in guiding are client safety and expedition success and therefore, my professional motto is “Never climb with strangers”.

In 2011, I finished my training with the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide School. The school is supported by Mammut and the Swiss and British Mountain Guide Associations and follows the IFMGA standards. Upon completion of the course and passing necessary tests I was qualified as a Mountain Guide. I am also qualified in mountain rescue and first aid by Mountaineering Instructor School in Kyrgyzstan (2012) and a member of the Kyrgyz Mountain Guide Association (KMGA) since the Autumn of 2009 where I serve as an instructor and examiner for the National Mountain Guide courses.

In my 13 years of guiding, I have worked all over Tien-Shan and Pamir in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and China and East Sayan and Lake Baikal areas in Russia. I have arranged several ski tour and backcountry skiing programs in the Ala Archa national park, Suusamyr valley, Kyrghyz Ala Too, Chong Kemin gorge, Kumtor glacier, and Terskey Ala Too.

In 2009-2016 I worked as a high altitude guide at the Lenin Peak (7134 m), Khan Tengri Peak (7010 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m), and Muztag Ata Peak (7546 m). As a mountaineering expert, I also have participated in 6 expeditions.

Presently I have over 100 ascents of different difficulty. The most significant of them are: Pobeda peak (7439 m) 1 ascent; Lenin peak (7134 m) 13 ascents; Muztag Ata (7546 m) 1 ascent; Khan Tengri (7010 m) 1 ascent; Korona peak 1st tower ED2 Smirnov route, winter conditions; Free Korea peak ED1 George Lowe route, winter conditions; Bachachekey peak 4 routes ED1 Kusmenko, Shwab, Polik, Ilyshenko; Ak-Too peak TD route, first ascent, winter conditions; Tarasova(Slovenia) TD route, winter conditions; Simagina peak TD+ route, winter conditions.

My sport climbing level: 7a-7b on sight, 7c-8a red point.

Please get in touch with me if you are interested to come and discover the mountains of my region.

Languages

Russian | English

Certificates

KMGA | IVBV | UIAGM | IFMGA

What people are saying about this trip

Dmitry

5.00

February, 2017

I climbed the Pobeda Peak with Andrey in 2011. It was something very difficult to achieve but we did it. The most difficult part of the trip was the section from the highest camp to the summit because of the altitude (more than 7000m). That was also the longest section of the climb. Andrey and I worked together up to the summit. I trusted 100% in Andrey during the climb because I knew him very well. He is a real professional climber!