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Mount Khan Tengri, Tian-Shan, Guided Ascent

Join Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this unique 21-day expedition that will take you to the 7010m summit of Khan Tengri, the second highest peak in the Tian-Shan range. Heli-ski drops included!

Mountain RangeTian Shan
Duration21 days
Offer periodJul, Aug
Skill LevelAdvanced
Fitness LevelExtremely Fit
Type of tripGroup


It WOULD be my pleasure to help you conquer the Khan Tengri summit, in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range.

The region of the Tian-Shan mountain range is shared by Kazakhstan, China and Kyrgyzstan. Its highest peak is the Jengish Chokusu, on the Kyrgyzian-Chinese border. Its second highest peak is the great Mt Khan Tengri (7010m). It lies on the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

The Khan Tengri mountain is a marble pyramid surrounded by impressive towers of more than 800 meters. From the north, this peak looks like a drop of blood with a dark blue sky as background. In fact, the Mt Khan Tengri has another name: Kan-Tau, which means Bloody Mountain.

The ascent of Mt. Khan Tengri is a wonderful experience, especially for those climbers and mountaineers with substantial prior high-mountain experience. It is also important to have a very good fitness level and be equipped enough to face very harsh conditions.

Our meeting point will be in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. I can provide advice regarding your travel plans. After that, we’ll travel to the base camp of Inylchek Glacier, where the ascent really begins.

During this 21-day expedition, we’ll move from one area to another by helicopter. We’ll also spend a couple of days acclimatizing before we make our way to the summit.

You can book your place for the months of July and August 2017. I can take a maximum of 3 participants with me. If the group is larger (up to 10 people), it’ll be necessary to add one or two guide assistants. Please check the Extra Information section for more information about what is included in the price.

If you find this trip interesting and want to join me, please contact me. We can discuss and plan the program together. I’ll be happy to guide you through the incredible Khan Tengri Peak! 

I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!

I can also guide you to the summit of the beautiful Victory peak as well on this challenging 29 Day  ascent.


- Hotel accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast). - Accommodation in tents in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and in South Inylchek BC (full board + shower and sauna included).

Meeting point





Day 1: Arrival

Arrival to Bishkek and transfer to the hotel, where we’ll spend the first night.

Day 2: Transfer from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (2100m)

3 pax per tent.

Day 3: Helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp (4100m)

South Inylchek Base Camp at 4100 m.

Day 4: Primary acclimatization in base camp

Day 5: We’ll move to Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200 m).

Day 6: We’ll move to Camp 2 (4800 m).

Day 7: Return to our Base Camp.

Day 8: Rest day

Day 9: Camp 1

Day 10: Camp 3 (5800 m).

Day 11: Return to Base Camp.

Day 12: Rest day

Day 13: Camp 1

Day 4: Camp 3

Day 15: Khan Tengri summit day! (7010m) We’ll reach the top and back to Camp 3.

Day 16: Descent to Base Camp.

Day 17 to 18: Rest or extra days

Day 19: Transfer back to the BC of Karkara by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek.

Accommodation in a hotel.

Day 20: Full day in Bishkek

Accommodation in a hotel.

Day 21: Flight home

About the guide

guide profile img

I'm an IFMGA-certified guide and have been guiding for the past 15 years.

I got the chance to do beautiful ascents like the Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Mont Cook, McKinley, 7000m Peaks in ex-USSR, technical climbing In the Caucasus, new climbing routes in the USA, ski-touring in Alps, Russia etc.

I'm an expert in the Elbrus region. I know every corner of it and will be happy to guide you to the summit, at 5.642m high, skiing or walking.
Please get in touch with me and let's leave together for a wonderful adventure in the incredible Caucasus mountain range!

I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!

My favorite saying: "We will either find a way, or make one".

Deal opportunities

Join an existing group and pay much less

Jul 26, 2020 - Aug 15, 2020

EUR 2779 per traveller

For booking assistance

Have any doubts? Talk directly with an Explore Share assistant.
The Concierge service is a great tool for when you still haven't decided what kind of Adventure you're looking for and you're open to suggestions

Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 2779 each

Group of 2

EUR 2779 each

Group of 3

EUR 2779 each

Group of 4

EUR 2779 each

Group of 5

EUR 2779 each

Group of 6

EUR 2779 each

Group of 7

EUR 2779 each

Group of 8

EUR 2779 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

• Guiding fee

• Accommodation

• Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back

• Transport during the trip

• Permit and entrance fees

• Helicopter drops as described

• Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

Price details

• The maximum number of participants for the trip is 10, at a rate of 3 per guide. The price above is for the guided ascent. However, there is also a non-guided ascent of the mountain that comes at a price of 1995 Euros per person (dates available from July 5th to August 30. The guided ascent price includes: • Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent) • Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set • High-altitude food Full package includes: - meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek; - transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek; - transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back; - helicopter flight to BC and back; - unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back; - accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with -full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!); - accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“; - free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“; - consultation with local guide; - consultation with doctor; - registration with local Rescue service; - ecology fee for usage of BC; - usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service; - rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents; - usage of fixed ropes on the route; - change of air-flight and railway tickets; - border zone permit; - official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed); Additional services in BC: - International phone calls – 4 USD/min The price does not include: - Airport taxes; - Cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgyz); - Unexpected premature evacuation; - Insurance; - Rental of mountaineering equipment; - Porters; - Drinks and personal expenses.

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