Mount Khan Tengri, Tian-Shan, Guided Ascent

Join Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this unique 21-day expedition that will take you to the 7010m summit of Khan Tengri, the second highest peak in the Tian-Shan range. Heli-ski drops included!




Trip Duration

21 days

Mountain Range

Tian Shan

People per Guide

3 people

Trip Level


Offer Period

Jul, Aug

Type of Trip

Not specified



    It WOULD be my pleasure to help you conquer the Khan Tengri summit, in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range.

    The region of the Tian-Shan mountain range is shared by Kazakhstan, China and Kyrgyzstan. Its highest peak is the Jengish Chokusu, on the Kyrgyzian-Chinese border. Its second highest peak is the great Mt Khan Tengri (7010m). It lies on the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

    The Khan Tengri mountain is a marble pyramid surrounded by impressive towers of more than 800 meters. From the north, this peak looks like a drop of blood with a dark blue sky as background. In fact, the Mt Khan Tengri has another name: Kan-Tau, which means Bloody Mountain.

    The ascent of Mt. Khan Tengri is a wonderful experience, especially for those climbers and mountaineers with substantial prior high-mountain experience. It is also important to have a very good fitness level and be equipped enough to face very harsh conditions.

    Our meeting point will be in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. I can provide advice regarding your travel plans. After that, we’ll travel to the base camp of Inylchek Glacier, where the ascent really begins.

    During this 21-day expedition, we’ll move from one area to another by helicopter. We’ll also spend a couple of days acclimatizing before we make our way to the summit.

    You can book your place for the months of July and August 2017. I can take a maximum of 3 participants with me. If the group is larger (up to 10 people), it’ll be necessary to add one or two guide assistants. Please check the Extra Information section for more information about what is included in the price.

    If you find this trip interesting and want to join me, please contact me. We can discuss and plan the program together. I’ll be happy to guide you through the incredible Khan Tengri Peak!

    I can also guide you to the summit of the beautiful Victory peak as well on this challenging 29 Day  ascent.

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    Price per person

    Group of 1
    2585 EUR

    Group of 2
    2585 EUR

    Group of 3
    2585 EUR

    Group of 4
    2585 EUR

    Group of 5
    2585 EUR

    Group of 6
    2585 EUR

    Group of 7
    2585 EUR

    Group of 8
    2585 EUR


    Price includes

    • Guiding fee
    • Accommodation
    • Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back
    • Transport during the trip
    • Permit and entrance fees
    • Helicopter drops as described
    • Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
     The maximum number of participants for the trip is 10, at a rate of 3 per guide. The price above is for the guided ascent. However, there is also a non-guided ascent of the mountain that comes at a price of 1825 Euros per person. The guided ascent price includes: • Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent) • Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set • High-altitude food Full package includes: - meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek; - transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek; - transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back; - helicopter flight to BC and back; - unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back; - accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with -full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!); - accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“; - free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“; - consultation with local guide; - consultation with doctor; - registration with local Rescue service; - ecology fee for usage of BC; - usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service; - rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents; - usage of fixed ropes on the route; - change of air-flight and railway tickets; - border zone permit; - official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed); Additional services in BC: - International phone calls – 4 USD/min The price does not include: - Airport taxes; - Cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgyz); - Unexpected premature evacuation; - Insurance; - Rental of mountaineering equipment; - Porters; - Drinks and personal expenses.


    • Day 1Arrival

      Arrival to Bishkek and transfer to the hotel, where we’ll spend the first night.

    • Day 2Transfer from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (2100m)

      3 pax per tent.

    • Day 3Helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp (4100m)

      South Inylchek Base Camp at 4100 m.

    • Day 4Primary acclimatization in base camp
    • Day 5We’ll move to Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200 m).
    • Day 6We’ll move to Camp 2 (4800 m).
    • Day 7Return to our Base Camp.
    • Day 8Rest day
    • Day 9Camp 1
    • Day 10Camp 3 (5800 m).
    • Day 11Return to Base Camp.
    • Day 12Rest day
    • Day 13Camp 1
    • Day 4Camp 3
    • Day 15Khan Tengri summit day! (7010m) We’ll reach the top and back to Camp 3.
    • Day 16Descent to Base Camp.
    • Day 17 to 18Rest or extra days
    • Day 19Transfer back to the BC of Karkara by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek.

      Accommodation in a hotel.

    • Day 20Full day in Bishkek

      Accommodation in a hotel.

    • Day 21Flight home

    Other details

    Skill level required


    Fitness level required

    Extremely Fit

    Meeting point



    - Hotel accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast).

    - Accommodation in tents in Karkara BC (maximum 4 nights) and in South Inylchek BC (full board + shower and sauna included).


    About the Guide


    I'm an IFMGA-certified guide and have been guiding for the past 15 years.

    I got the chance to do beautiful ascents like the Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Mont Cook, McKinley, 7000m Peaks in ex-USSR, technical climbing In the Caucasus, new climbing routes in the USA, ski-touring in Alps, Russia etc.

    I'm an expert in the Elbrus region. I know every corner of it and will be happy to guide you to the summit, at 5.642m high, skiing or walking.
    Please get in touch with me and let's leave together for a wonderful adventure in the incredible Caucasus mountain range!

    I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available, either Nikolay or Victor will guide you!

    My favorite saying: "We will either find a way, or make one".

    FROM 2585 EURper person


    What People are Saying about Ivan Moshnikov


    It was great to be with Ivan. Above all, I came through him in an area that I otherwise would not have been able to travel. He really took good care of everything and I learned a lot. DychTau is a mountain that demands a lot from the beginning to the end!
    Read review
    Andre Frick
    Vladimir was our guide for summiting of Mount Kazbegi in July, 2019. He was a brilliant guide, as well as champion snow boarder, and I would highly recommend him for anyone planning climbing Kazbegi or Elbrus.
    Read review
    Gavan Lee
    Ivan is a master of his craft. His knowledge, instincts and skills are of the highest quality. He is the best guide I\'ve ever climbed with and when I return to Russia, I\'ll be climbing with him again. Also, his character is also of the highest quality, he is responsible, smart, and incredibly professional in every aspect. When you\'re doing something risky (like climbing a mountain), he\'s the exact person you need with you. I\'d climb with him anywhere, any weather any time of year.
    Read review
    We went to Mt Elbrus ski touring in May and did not summit due to bad weather. If you want to be sure to summit I would suggest you book about 8 days as it takes at least 4 days to get altitude acclimatised to the point you can make an attempt ) and it seems the bad weather systems last about 3 days.... groups submitted the two days prior to us but no one summited for the next three due to 80 kmh winds. In regard to CetNeva, I had some trouble with communications and replies (partly caused at my end) but once that was sorted things went well. Lisa runs the admin side and is good. We did not have Ivan as a guide we had Roman - but Roman was over qualified for us but patient and pleasant despite our lack of skills and never being ready on time.
    Read review
    James Neill

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