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Mount Khan Tengri, Tian-Shan, Guided Ascent

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Join Ivan, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, on this unique 21-day expedition that will take you to the 7010m summit of Khan Tengri, the second highest peak in the Tian-Shan range. Heli-ski drops included!


Tian Shan

21 Days

Jul, Aug

Very high



It WOULD be my pleasure to help you conquer the Khan Tengri summit**, in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range.**

The region of the Tian-Shan mountain range is shared by Kazakhstan, China and Kyrgyzstan. Its highest peak is the Jengish Chokusu, on the Kyrgyzian-Chinese border. Its second highest peak is the great Mt Khan Tengri (7010m). It lies on the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

The Khan Tengri mountain is a marble pyramid surrounded by impressive towers of more than 800 meters. From the north, this peak looks like a drop of blood with a dark blue sky as background. In fact, the Mt Khan Tengri has another name: Kan-Tau, which means Bloody Mountain.

The ascent of Mt. Khan Tengri is a wonderful experience, especially for those climbers and mountaineers with substantial prior high-mountain experience. It is also important to have a very good fitness level and be equipped enough to face very harsh conditions.

Our meeting point will be in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. I can provide advice regarding your travel plans. After that, we’ll travel to the base camp of Inylchek Glacier, where the ascent really begins.

During this 21-day expedition, we’ll move from one area to another by helicopter. We’ll also spend a couple of days acclimatizing before we make our way to the summit.

You can book your place for the months of July and August 2017. I can take a maximum of 3 participants with me. If the group is larger (up to 10 people), it’ll be necessary to add one or two guide assistants. Please check the Extra Information section for more information about what is included in the price.

If you find this trip interesting and want to join me, please contact me. We can discuss and plan the program together. I’ll be happy to guide you through the incredible Khan Tengri Peak! 

I work together with a group of guides, so if I’m not available, one of my colleagues will guide you!

I can also guide you to the summit of the beautiful Victory peak as well on this challenging 29 Day  ascent.


Day 1: Arrival

Arrival to Bishkek and transfer to the hotel, where we’ll spend the first night.

Day 2: Transfer from Bishkek to Karkara Base Camp (2100m)

3 pax per tent.

Day 3: Helicopter flight to South Inylchek Base Camp (4100m)

South Inylchek Base Camp at 4100 m.

Day 4: Primary acclimatization in base camp

Day 5: We’ll move to Khan Tengri Camp 1 (4200 m).

Day 6: We’ll move to Camp 2 (4800 m).

Day 7: Return to our Base Camp.

Day 8: Rest day

Day 9: Camp 1

Day 10: Camp 3 (5800 m).

Day 11: Return to Base Camp.

Day 12: Rest day

Day 13: Camp 1

Day 4: Camp 3

Day 15: Khan Tengri summit day! (7010m) We’ll reach the top and back to Camp 3.

Day 16: Descent to Base Camp.

Day 17 to 18: Rest or extra days

Day 19: Transfer back to the BC of Karkara by helicopter. Transfer to Bishkek.

Accommodation in a hotel.

Day 20: Full day in Bishkek

Accommodation in a hotel.

Day 21: Flight home


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