Victory peak, Kyrgyzstan, 29 Day Ascent

Dare come on this incredible 29-day expedition to the Victory Peak summit (7,439m) in Kyrgyzstan, organised by IFMGA-certified mountain guide Ivan.




Trip Duration

29 days

Mountain Range

Tian Shan

People per Guide

Trip Level


Offer Period

Jul, Aug

Type of Trip

Not specified



    Experience this amazing ascent in the Tian-Shan Mountain Range: an incredible expedition to reach the top of Victory Peak in almost 29 days!

    Victory Peak is the highest summit in the Tian-Shian mountain range. At 7,439 meters, it towers over the rest of the peaks on the Kyrgyzstan–China border. During World War II, this area witnessed several battles. Soviet rulers hoped for a victory and thus named it Victory Peak or Pobeda in Russian.

    The Victory peak is definitely one of the most impressive mountains in the world. And the views you will get from the summit are only rivalled by the thrilling experience of reaching it!

    This 29-day program includes ample time for acclimatization. Also, you will get to ride a helicopter to go to and from the Victory Peak’s base camp.

    This is a non-guided trip. However, everything you will need to successfully summit this incredible peak will be provided for you. Please note that the Victory Peak ascent is also reserved for experienced mountaineers only. Also, it is mandatory that participants be in excellent physical condition. Only a few people make it to the summit every year, so you need to be prepared for a very challenging ascent. The best period for these expeditions is during July and August. August, however, is best in terms of available helicopter flights.

    So if this sounds like the kind of experience you want to enjoy, just send me a request. This very challenging expedition to the Victory Peak summit will provide you with some truly unforgettable memories.

    I can also lead you to the top of the spectacular Khan Tengri mountain that is also in the Tian-Shan mountains on this 21 day ascent.

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    Price per person

    Group of 1
    1685 EUR

    Group of 2
    1685 EUR

    Group of 3
    1685 EUR

    Group of 4
    1685 EUR

    Group of 5
    1685 EUR

    Group of 6
    1685 EUR

    Group of 7
    1685 EUR

    Group of 8
    1685 EUR


    Price includes

    • Accommodation
    • Transportation from your hotel/airport (if in area) to the start of the trip and back
    • Transport during the trip
    • Permit and entrance fees
    • Helicopter drops as described
    • Meals: Breakfast, Dinner
     The price includes: • Installed high-altitude tents (3 pax in 1 tent) • Group mountaineering equipment: ropes (if needed), gas cartridges and gas stoves, cooking set • High-altitude food Full package includes: - meeting/seeing-off at the airport in Bishkek or at railway station in Bishkek; - transfer airport in Bishkek– hotel - airport in Bishkek; - transfer Bishkek to helicopter landing spot in Karkara and back; - helicopter flight to BC and back; - unlimited luggage weight on the helicopter flight to BC and back; - accommodation in the hotel in Bishkek with breakfast and in Karkara base camp with -full board (no more then 4 nights only in total!); - accommodation in double tents with fullboard at BC “South Inylchek“; - free usage of hot shower and sauna, toilet and cloak-room at BC “South Inylchek“; - consultation with local guide; - consultation with doctor; - registration with local Rescue service; - ecology fee for usage of BC; - usage of long-distance radio telecommunication service; - rent of ultra-short wave radios during ascents; - usage of fixed ropes on the route; - change of air-flight and railway tickets; - border zone permit; - official registration with authorities of Kyrgyzstan and visa support letter (if needed); Additional services in BC: - International phone calls – 4 USD/min The price does not include: - Airport taxes; - Cost of visas (Russian and Kyrgyz); - Unexpected premature evacuation; - Insurance; - Rental of mountaineering equipment; - Porters; - Drinks and personal expenses.


    • Day 1Arrival to Bishkek airport
    • Day 2Transfer to Karkara Base Camp (2100m)
    • Day 3Transfer by helicopter to the South Inylcheck glacier base camp (4100m)
    • Day 4 to 5Primary acclimitization at Base Camp
    • Day 6Victory Peak camp 1 (4200m)
    • Day 7Camp 2 (5100m)
    • Day 8Camp 3 (5800m)
    • Day 9Descent back to Base Camp
    • Day 10 to 11Rest days
    • Day 12Camp 1
    • Day 13Camp 2
    • Day 14Camp 3
    • Day 15Camp 4 (6400m)
    • Day 16Return to Base Camp
    • Day 17 to 19Rest Days
    • Day 20Camp 1
    • Day 21Camp 3
    • Day 22Camp 4
    • Day 23Camp 5 (6918m)
    • Day 24Victory Peak Summit Day! Then back to camp 5
    • Day 25Descend to camp 1
    • Day 26Return to Base Camp
    • Day 27Return helicopter flight to Kankara base camp then transfer to Bishkek and overnight stay in hotel
    • Day 28Full day in Bishkek, overnight in hotel
    • Day 29Departure flight back home

    Other details

    Skill level required


    Fitness level required

    Extremely Fit

    Meeting point



    - Hotel accommodation in Bishkek (with breakfast) according to the program.

    - Accommodation in Karkara Base Camp (maximum 4 nights) and BC “South Inylchek” (with full board, shower and sauna included).

    More info

    The helicopter schedule for July is: 1, 6, 8, 13, 15, 20, 22, 27, 29, 31, while the schedule for August is: 1, 3, 5, 10, 12, 17, 19, 24, 25, 26, 28, 30, 31.


    About the Guide


    I'm an IFMGA-certified guide and have been guiding for the past 15 years.

    I got the chance to do beautiful ascents like the Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, Mont Cook, McKinley, 7000m Peaks in ex-USSR, technical climbing In the Caucasus, new climbing routes in the USA, ski-touring in Alps, Russia etc.

    I'm an expert in the Elbrus region. I know every corner of it and will be happy to guide you to the summit, at 5.642m high, skiing or walking.
    Please get in touch with me and let's leave together for a wonderful adventure in the incredible Caucasus mountain range!

    I work together with a group of guides, so if I'm not available, either Nikolay or Victor will guide you!

    My favorite saying: "We will either find a way, or make one".



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    What People are Saying about Ivan Moshnikov


    This was my second trip together with Ivan Moshnikov. It\'s safe to say that everbody in our group absolutely loved it. We had a great time in Russia and it was an absolut blast. Even though we were not able to experience \"true Mamay snorking powder\" we still skied perfect snow for 7 days in a row. I threw my mobile in a corner in the first day and did not pick it up until 8 wonderfull days filled with skiing, amazing food, going to sauna and enyoing wonderfull company. However, if you a looking for a super lonely place, Mamay is probably not the right choice. The valley gets visited frequently by locals and other tourists. Still, there is enough place for everybody I think. 10/10 I will definitly come again. Many thanks to Yulia, Roma and Stepan!
    Read review
    Maximilian Siller
    It was a great adventure! I got answer to the few questions I have prior my departure and the support to get the required document. Once in Irkutsk we met with Ivan and depart to Mamay Valley where we had unbelievable snow. Days with snow where enjoyed in the forest with unbelievable amount of powder and days with sun were enjoyed higher up on the ridges where we could enjoy nice views, untouched snow and 5***** powder! I would repeat over and over again. The hut is really cosy and we have all what we need for a week of adventures. The sauna is a good think to do in the evenings before great dinners.
    Read review
    Valero Lopez
    The skitouring in Mamay as coordinated by Ivan was absolutely fantastic! Our guide Roman Romanov did a brilliant job in finding the best snow and runs, taking all of our needs into account and was very professional. The hut was really cozy, the food delicious and the sauna after skiing were the ideal finish to the perfect ski day!
    Read review
    Irina Hotz
    It was great to be with Ivan. Above all, I came through him in an area that I otherwise would not have been able to travel. He really took good care of everything and I learned a lot. DychTau is a mountain that demands a lot from the beginning to the end!
    Read review
    Andre Frick

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