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Piz Bernina climb via the Normal Route

Go on this classic climb in the Eastern Alps, starting at the Diavolezza hut, with Tomas, IFMGA certified and expert guide. One of the 82 Alpine 4000ers!

Mountain RangeAlps
Duration3 days
Offer periodJul, Aug, Sep
Skill LevelIntermediate
Fitness LevelFit
Type of tripPrivate


  • Reach the highest peak in the Eastern Alps.

  • Contemplate great views of the Swiss-Italian Alps.


This classic and popular climb is on every climber’s bucket list. This isolated four-thousander is the highest peak in the Eastern Alps. For this program, we will take the route that starts in the Diavolezza hut, near the Swiss village of Pontresina. Join me next season!

Pontresina is only 8km from St. Moritz, and it is easily reachable from Zurich.

The first part of the route is in a way a variation of the classic route. It starts off just outside the Diavolezza hut (2,970 m). Along this section of the program, we will go by: the Pers glacier, Vadret della Fortezza, running into crevasses, and views of the Crast Agüzza. Later, we will arrive at the famous Marco e Rosa hut (3,609 m / 11,800 ft).

From the Marco e Rosa hut, we will follow the Normal Route towards the Piz Bernina summit (4,048 m / 13,283 ft). I will guide you on snow and glacier terrain towards this impressive peak.

From the Piz Bernina summit, we will be able to witness the greatness of the Swiss-Italian Alps. Among the nearby peaks we will see are:

  • Ortler
  • Gran Zebru
  • Monte Cevedale
  • San Matteo
  • Como dei Tre Signori
  • Piz Palu
  • Cima Presanella
  • Piz Zupo

This is a 3-day expedition, but we can also organize a 4-day option that includes Biancograt, Bellavista and Piz Palü. Contact me and we will arrange the perfect mountain adventure for you.

Interested in this Piz Bernina, Normal Route ascent? Request your booking!

If you are interested in other ascents in this area, check out some of my other programs like: Les Droites Normal Route ascent, Dent du Geant, Normal Route 1-day ascent, Aiguille de Bionnassay, Normal Route 2-day ascent, and Grand Paradiso ascent via Vittorio Emanuele.



Day 1: Meet at Diavolezza Parking, check gear and lift to Diavolezza hut

Day 2: Rifugio Marco e Rosa via the Fortezza (5-7 hs)

Day 3: Climb the Bernina and back to Diavolezza (8-10 hs)

About the guide

guide profile img

Hello! I was born in Patagonia, Argentina, and started practicing mountaineering from a very young age. Today I live in the mecca of alpinism, Chamonix, France. I work as a full time mountain guide here in the Alps, in Patagonia and in any place I get the chance to go to.

Whether it is rock climbing in the sun, or ice and mixed routes in the cold north faces in the Alps, I do everything with passion. Glacier travels, icefalls climbing, freeride, ski touring... Luckily the mountain gives us many choices.

I invite you to join me in any of my trips and activities!

What people are saying about this trip

Prices per person

Group of 1

EUR 1500 each

Group of 2

EUR 950 each

Want a different number of travellers?

Price includes

- Guiding fee

Price details

Personal gear included if needed. Not included: accommodation for the participants and guide, food, drinks and lifts. The 4-day option has a cost of €2200 for 1 participant.

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