The Lépiney route at Trident du Tacul was climbed for the first time in 1919. Today, it’s an indisputable classic route of the Mont Blanc massif.

Raising from the Geant Glacier, Trident du Tacul (3300 m) is a beautiful granite tower. In fact, it’s a satellite peak of Mont Blanc du Tacul. 

To get there, we’ll take the Skyway cable car at Entreves station, in Courmayeur. The cable car will take us up to Pointe Helbronner (3462 m) where we’ll enjoy a stunning view from the terrace.

Once there, we’ll hike for 1.30 hours from the glacier to the base of Trident du Tacul. We’ll have to wear crampons on our mountain boots and walk on a rope.

Lépiney route is a 250 m route with 9 pitches, reaching a max difficulty of grade V in the UIAA grading system. From the top, you’ll admire a breathtaking view of Mont Blanc.

After the climb, we’ll rappel to the base and walk back to Pointe Helbronner. We’ll get back to Courmayeur by the afternoon.

Don’t miss the chance of climbing one of the classics of the Mont Blanc massif! Send me a request so we can start planning this trip together.

If you are looking for other interesting climbs in the area, check this rock climbing trip at Pyramid du Tacul.