Matterhorn 2-day Ascent

If conditions are unsafe for climbing the Matterhorn, I'll adapt the program to ensure your safety. Since I schedule a maximum of four ascents per week, my agenda is flexible and we can often adjust the ascent day if the forecast allows. If the weather or mountain conditions remain unsuitable, we’ll switch to a Plan B, for example, a 2-day program that could include the Breithorn half traverse, Pollux, Roccia Nera, or rock climbing on the Riffelhorn. Please note that refunds are not possible in case of bad conditions on the Matterhorn, as there is almost always a suitable alternative. Even if the weather prevents going high up, options such as rock climbing, ice climbing, or via ferrata are usually possible.

Although it is one of the great classics in the Alps, climbing Matterhorn is a difficult alpine tour. In the last 10 years, I made it to the top with more than 155 clients.

Good acclimatization, training, and endurance are key to reaching the goal. It’s essential to stay at least 5 days in Zermatt or in the surrounding huts at 3000 m to get proper acclimatization and to have some flexibility in case the weather forces us to move the ascent date. If you have more days, then it is also easier for me to change the summit day in the short term, depending on the conditions. I always try to be flexible for the summit day.

Also, a very good fitness and climbing grade 4 is required. For a safe climb in one day, it is important that you are able to do 300 meters of vertical gain per hour. The first part, up to the Solvay hut, should not take longer than 2 1/2 hours.

I also strongly suggest that you take a training day before this, so I can assess your climbing skills and see if you're ready to attempt the summit. We can practice some techniques together before climbing the Matterhorn. This is not included in this program, but we can certainly add it for an extra price.

Having only trekking experience is not sufficient for the Matterhorn; the risk is too high.

You'll find here a video that one of my previous clients took during the ascent - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP2nc_h_780 - It might give you a better idea of what it is to climb the Matterhorn.

The best conditions are normally from the 15th of July to the beginning of September.

We'll meet at the Hörnli Hut around 6 pm the day before the ascent. We'll check the equipment and have dinner. The next day, we'll start at around 4 am. We'll need 4-5 hours to climb from the hut to the top and then 4-5 hours to go back down.

The price you pay here to confirm the booking covers my guiding fee.

The cost for the hut for you and me (around 150 CHF per person) and the lift come on top of this. I'll be booking the hut for the 2 of us. You'll pay the fee when you get there. If you need to rent equipment, you can do it in one of the shops in Zermatt. I recommend "Matterhorn Sport" in Zermatt.

You should book as soon as you can. A lot of people wish to climb Matterhorn every summer, so my availabilities are very limited. I get fully booked quite quickly.

No. The season to climb Matterhorn is starting around July 1st when the hut opens.

A mountain guide can take a maximum of one client on the Matterhorn. If you plan to come with other climbers, I can reach out to my IFMGA mountain guide colleagues to arrange additional guides. These arrangements need to be made in advance, as guides are often fully booked, especially in peak season. It’s important to note that you won’t climb together as a group; each guide will adjust their pace and approach based on their individual client’s level and experience. Due to the Matterhorn’s popularity and challenging conditions, it’s not feasible to wait for each other, take breaks together, or take group photos. If one climber needs to turn back, their guide will do so with them, allowing others to continue.

You'll probably fly to Geneva or Zurich. From there, you can take a train. It takes 3 to 4 hours, from these 2 airports to Zermatt.

If you come by car, you'll need to stop and park in Täsch, which is 5 kilometers (3 miles) away from Zermatt. From there, you'll take a train (running every 15 min) or a taxi, to the village.

On the pictures of my program, you'll find one showing the equipment you'll need to have with you.

After your booking, I'll share a detailed list of gear to bring with you.

Note that part of it such as b2 boots, ice axe, crampons, a helmet, a harness, etc. can be rented in the rental shops of Zermatt. I recommend you to go to "Matterhorn Sport" shop.

There are three key areas where you can focus your efforts to ensure you are well-prepared for a successful ascent of the Matterhorn.

1. Acclimatization:

Spend a minimum of 3–5 days in Zermatt before attempting the climb. Engage in hiking activities to acclimatize to the altitude. Explore the surrounding huts from Zermatt, such as Rothornhut, Fluealp, Gornergrat, 3 Lakes Hike, and Berggasthaus Trift. Additionally, sleeping at an elevation of around 3000m, either at Rothornhut, Gandeghütte, or Refugio Theodul, will further aid in acclimatization.

2. Technical Skills:

Prioritize training in a climbing gym, aiming for 5 to 10 sessions to attain at least a 5c climbing level. Outdoor climbing experiences will contribute significantly to enhancing your climbing skills. Engage in scrambling and mountaineering activities to further improve your capabilities. Consider participating in a guided training day before attempting the Matterhorn climb to gain valuable insights and confidence.

3. Fitness:

Achieving a high fitness level is crucial for a Matterhorn ascent. Incorporate running, cycling, or swimming into your routine at least twice a week, with each session lasting a minimum of one hour. Complement these aerobic exercises with additional fitness training in the gym to build overall strength and endurance.

I don’t offer the option to descend via the Lion’s Ridge after ascending the Hörnli Ridge. The Italian side has been in poor condition these past seasons, with rockfalls, maintenance issues at the hut, and overall challenges that make the descent less safe. Additionally, if any issues arise, turning back is complicated. For these reasons, I recommend and conduct the climb entirely on the Hörnli Ridge, as it provides a safer and more reliable route for both the ascent and descent.

I take care of booking the Hörnli Hut for both you and myself. To give us flexibility, I usually make the reservation last minute, which helps us avoid a 50 CHF change fee in case we need to adjust the date. I know the hut owner, so booking close to the climb works smoothly. The hut costs 150 CHF per person, which is additional to the guiding fee you are paying here on Explore-Share.

I recommend Matterhorn Sport in Zermatt. They offer a comprehensive range of equipment for both purchase and rental, ensuring you have everything needed for your climb. Their knowledgeable staff can assist you in selecting the appropriate gear. You can find more information on their website: https://www.matterhornsport.ch/en

I try to offer flexibility to adjust the ascent day last minute based on weather and mountain conditions. I limit my schedule to a maximum of four ascents per week to allow this flexibility. However, I make the final decision on the best day to climb, as conditions on the mountain can vary beyond just the weather forecast. For example, a clear day following a storm might look ideal, but the mountain may still have heavy snow that affects safety. My goal is to choose the safest conditions for a successful climb.

If the weather or mountain conditions remain unsuitable, we’ll switch to a Plan B, for example, a 2-day program that could include the Breithorn half traverse, Pollux, Roccia Nera, or rock climbing on the Riffelhorn. Please note that refunds are not possible in case of bad conditions on the Matterhorn, as there is almost always a suitable alternative. Even if the weather prevents going high up, options such as rock climbing, ice climbing, or via ferrata are usually possible.

Yes, I can reach out to my IFMGA mountain guide friends to arrange additional guides if your group has multiple climbers. However, these arrangements need to be made in advance, as all guides are often booked up, especially during peak season. It’s also essential to understand that you won’t climb together as a group. Each guide adjusts the pace based on their individual client’s level and experience, and with the Matterhorn’s crowds, it’s not necessarily feasible to wait for each other, take breaks together, or take group photos. Additionally, if one climber needs to turn back, their guide will do so with them, allowing the others to continue as planned.

Yes, it is possible. It’s best to start with Mont Blanc, as it is less technical than the Matterhorn. To allow for proper rest and acclimatization, you should plan 3-4 days between the two summit days. Additionally, you will need one day to travel between Chamonix (Mont Blanc) and Zermatt (Matterhorn). Note that I only guide in Zermatt during the summer, but you can find a guide for Mont Blanc on Explore-Share >> https://www.explore-share.com/mountain-climbing-trips/france/mont-blanc/