Ascent to ‘Cabeza de Condor’ in Condoriri, Bolivia

Reach the summit of 'Cabeza de Condor', a 5648 m mountain of the Condoriri group, in Bolivia, together with an IFMGA mountain guide.

 
 
 

Details

 

Trip Duration

6 days

Mountain Range

Andes

People per Guide

Trip Level

Intermediate

Offer Period

May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct

Type of Trip

Not specified

Highlights

 
     

    At 5648 m, ‘Cabeza de Condor’ is an iconic mountain of the Condoriri massif in the Cordillera Real. 

    Because of its impressive shape, it’s also known as the ‘Bolivian Matternorn‘, like the famous mountain in the Alps.

    The Condoriri massif is a group of snowy peaks, all above 5000 meters. ‘Cabeza de Condor’ is the highest of them.

    Climbing this peak is a classical trip for mountaineers in Bolivia. This time, I invite you to a 6-day expedition that will start from the city of La Paz. 

    The only way of reaching Condoriri base camp is by foot, so we’ll walk there from Tuni Lagoon at 4200 m

    Nevertheless, before approaching ‘Cabeza de Condor’ I propose to climb other peaks in Condoriri, such as Austria, Ilusion and Pequeño Alpamayo.

    Once we get a proper acclimatization we will head towards our main objective. It will take around 6 hours of climbing.

    Although most climbers ascend this mountain through the Normal Route or Directisima, you can climb it from other sides too. But you have to consider those routes are steep.

    Once in the summit, you will have stunning views of the Cordillera Real and Lake Titicaca.

    Then, we’ll descend to base camp in 3 hours.

    Please contact me if you are interesting in mountaineering in a unique region of the Bolivian Andes!

    You can also check this incredible trip from Condoriri base camp: Hiking to Chacapampa.

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    Price per person

     
     

    Price includes

     
    • Guiding fee
     

    Itinerary

     
    • Day 1La Paz - Tuni - Chiarkhota

      From the city of La Paz we will go to Tuni Lagoon by private transportation (2-hour trip).

      From Llama square we will walk for 3 hours to the Chiarkhota lagoon (4650 m), located in the base of the solid Condoriri Massif.

      We will camp near the lagoon.

    • Day 2Acclimatization day

      This day we can climb Mirador Peak (5100 m) or Austria (5200 m). We can decide in base camp.

      Night camping.

    • Day 3Ilusion Peak

      Ascent to Ilusion peak (5250 m), hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

      From here, it is about 3 hours climbing to the summit of Ilusion.

      Then, we descend for about 2 hours and return to the base camp.

      Night camping.

    • Day 4Pequeño Alpamayo

      Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

      Here we will use climbing equipment.

      We arrive to the base of the snowy pyramid, and then have a technical climb during the first 80 m. (55 grades).

      After passing this technical side, we will ascend up to the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo (5400 m) in 3.30 hours.

      We will have some minutes over the summit to admire the mountainous landscape that surrounds us.

      Descend will take 4 hours. Return to base camp, night camping.

    • Day 5Cabeza de Condor

      Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours. 

      From here, we will use climbing equipment, climbing for about 6 hours to reach the summit at 5.700 m by the normal way.

      Then we descend for 3 hours to base camp, night camping.

    • Day 6Return to La Paz

      Descent for about 2 hours to Tuni Lagoon, with llamas assistance for the heavy bags.

      From here, we will return to the city of La Paz by private transportation.

     
     

    Other details

     
    Meeting point

    La Paz.

    Accommodation

    Camping.

     

    About the Guide

     
     

    I work together with several IFMGA/UIAGM colleagues. So if I'm not available to guide you, one of my colleagues equally certified will guide you.

    I began to climb the mountain when I was 15 years old. I was born in Pinaya (3.800 m.a.s.l.), a region located not far away from the top of the base camp of the majestic snow-covered Illimani (6.462 m.a.s.l.). I dedicated most part of my life to climb different ice and Rock Mountains through the Cordillera Real, Cordillera Occidental, and Cordillera de Apolobamba.

     
     
    FROM 0 USDper person
     

     

    What People are Saying about -Jenaro Yupanqui

     

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