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Ascent to ‘Cabeza de Condor’ in Condoriri, Bolivia

Reach the summit of 'Cabeza de Condor', a 5648 m mountain of the Condoriri group, in Bolivia, together with an IFMGA mountain guide.

Mountain RangeAndes
Duration6 days
Offer periodMay, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct
Type of tripNot specified


At 5648 m, ‘Cabeza de Condor’ is an iconic mountain of the Condoriri massif in the Cordillera Real. 

Because of its impressive shape, it’s also known as the ‘Bolivian Matternorn‘, like the famous mountain in the Alps.

The Condoriri massif is a group of snowy peaks, all above 5000 meters. ‘Cabeza de Condor’ is the highest of them.

Climbing this peak is a classical trip for mountaineers in Bolivia. This time, I invite you to a 6-day expedition that will start from the city of La Paz. 

The only way of reaching Condoriri base camp is by foot, so we’ll walk there from Tuni Lagoon at 4200 m

Nevertheless, before approaching ‘Cabeza de Condor’ I propose to climb other peaks in Condoriri, such as Austria, Ilusion and Pequeño Alpamayo.

Once we get a proper acclimatization we will head towards our main objective. It will take around 6 hours of climbing.

Although most climbers ascend this mountain through the Normal Route or Directisima, you can climb it from other sides too. But you have to consider those routes are steep.

Once in the summit, you will have stunning views of the Cordillera Real and Lake Titicaca.

Then, we’ll descend to base camp in 3 hours.

Please contact me if you are interesting in mountaineering in a unique region of the Bolivian Andes!

You can also check this incredible trip from Condoriri base camp: Hiking to Chacapampa.




Meeting point

La Paz.



Day 1: La Paz - Tuni - Chiarkhota

From the city of La Paz we will go to Tuni Lagoon by private transportation (2-hour trip).

From Llama square we will walk for 3 hours to the Chiarkhota lagoon (4650 m), located in the base of the solid Condoriri Massif.

We will camp near the lagoon.

Day 2: Acclimatization day

This day we can climb Mirador Peak (5100 m) or Austria (5200 m). We can decide in base camp.

Night camping.

Day 3: Ilusion Peak

Ascent to Ilusion peak (5250 m), hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

From here, it is about 3 hours climbing to the summit of Ilusion.

Then, we descend for about 2 hours and return to the base camp.

Night camping.

Day 4: Pequeño Alpamayo

Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours.

Here we will use climbing equipment.

We arrive to the base of the snowy pyramid, and then have a technical climb during the first 80 m. (55 grades).

After passing this technical side, we will ascend up to the summit of Pequeño Alpamayo (5400 m) in 3.30 hours.

We will have some minutes over the summit to admire the mountainous landscape that surrounds us.

Descend will take 4 hours. Return to base camp, night camping.

Day 5: Cabeza de Condor

Hiking to the glacier for about 1.30 hours. 

From here, we will use climbing equipment, climbing for about 6 hours to reach the summit at 5.700 m by the normal way.

Then we descend for 3 hours to base camp, night camping.

Day 6: Return to La Paz

Descent for about 2 hours to Tuni Lagoon, with llamas assistance for the heavy bags.

From here, we will return to the city of La Paz by private transportation.